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Last year, the driver’s side rear door locked itself and flatly refused to open, even when I offered it a bribe! :mad:

Of course it was the dreaded Megane broken door locks disease-a problem that seems to affect many a poor Meg owner. The usual result is your friendly Renault dealer relieving you of at least £80 and at least a days worth of labour costs. This was money I simply didn’t have. You have to have the door open to get the screw out which hold the lock in place in order to replace it, but the door was locked shut. :confused:

Anyhoo, after much head scratching, swearing, hokeing and poking around inside the door with a bent up metal coat hanger, I finally sparked up my gas axe ready to cut the blasted door lock out! :steam: :steam:

Common sense prevailed and I shut down my torch and headed in the direction of my local breakers yard.

Of course there was only one Megane in the entire stock of 1000 or so cars-And sods law saw to it that someone had already helped themselves to the rear drivers’ side door lock. Bum! :(

Out of curiosity, I fished out the drivers’ door lock with a view to seeing if it was similar enough for me to work out how it works and thus work out how to release the offending article on my own car.

Within an hour or so, I was back at home with the door open and the broken lock some three or four gardens away-I did throw it rather hard! I also managed to modify the front door lock so that it fitted in place of the rear lock. You need to swap the little lever for the kiddie lock over and you can’t fix it so that the door locks and unlocks using the little button on at the top of the door. The door now works in the same manner as a front door and unlocks from the inside as you operate the handle. The little button now sort of flops around and does nothing but fills a hole.

The total price for the repair? £3!

Then last night the passenger side rear door refused to open! So guess what I’ll be doing this weekend!

PS, I think a Laguna door lock is similar enough to modify and fit and for some reason, there are loads of them in the scrap yard. :confused:
 

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How did you do it?

Cerberus,
I've got my OS rear door locked shut on the Scénic. I could hear the solenoid "dragging" longer than the other for a few days before, now it's still sounding but only moving the button slightly.

I've taken the door card off but I can't see how to get the door open as the solenoid almost is part of the lock.
Did you end up breaking the lock off from the inside? How?

I think I'll get a replacement from the scrappy so I can change it over right away when I eventually do get the door open.
 

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I have got the lock off from the inside.

Having removed the door card, & disengaged the various rods from the lock & solenoid I removed the solenoid itself.
This held in by a 8mm bolt and 2 locating lugs.
Once this is out you can see more clearly. I do it with this in place next time as I know what I'm looking for.
I removed the door rubber to give a little extra movement.
Just above where the rod from the outside handle attaches to the lock, there is an oval hole.
I used a screwdriver in this hole to work the latch open (towards the outside of the door).
It's basically trial & error but I did it in about 5 mins.
You can then unscrew the lock from the outside. Undo the botton screw holding the window glass rail so you can squeeze the lock past it.
New lock being delivered Friday.
The solenoid seems serviceable, its the lock jammed.

And for a really [email protected] coincidence, I have the same problem on the Pug, passenger side door. But that's much easier to get at.
 

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The link between the outer handle and the lock on my Megane's rear driver side door has broken. Is this a 'quick fix'.
I'm guessing a new outer door handle is needed.
The door opens from the inside and locks ok.
 

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Door card is slang for the interior trim on the door. With the right tools and a lot of patience the trim can be removed from the inside and the lock "sprung" open - it usually means poking around with a screw driver unyil you hit the right lever releasing the lock. Good luck and no swearing - promise.:d
 

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Easy way to open jammed rear door locks.

Following Goodwood's advice I got mine open, but then realised there is an easier way, ie without removing the solenoid. Encl some pics to show the way.

Background
There is a slot in the visible face of the lock, [see orange arrow in pic 1] where you can see the swinging catch plate (that catches the peg on the doorframe), and also see the latch that holds it. What we need to do is lift the latch, and the door opens. However the slot is largely hidden and not obvious. (unless you remove the lock-motor and white plastic shield, which you do not need to do).

The Wire:
To open the door without removing the lock motor and white polythene shield you need a special wire tool to spring the lock. However Renault have thoughtfully provided one with your car. Use the wire that connects the lock to the remote door catch! Unclip the end and remove it from the lock. You need to use the other end, with the dog-leg double bend

Where to put the wire:
Holding the wire so that the cranked end has the crank vertically down, you have to get the peg end into the start of the slot.
At the back corner of what you can see of the lock, level with the top of the lock motor, there is a 4mm hole [orange arrow head in 1st pic]. Use this as marker for the start of the slot, which is about 10mm outboard (left on the RH door) of this hole.
You can just see the hole in the middle of the last pic.
The peg end of your wire has to get in this slot, pushing in the wire until the dog-leg is against the lock surface. Then rotate (twist) the wire so the end pushes toward the door skin, (clockwise on an RH door) this will only need about 30 degrees, and negligible force. It is not quite straightforward as you have to catch a small edge, but a little wiggling will soon find it and open the door. It helps to hold the wire as straight along the car’s axis as possible, ideally going near the half-moon cut-out in the white plastic shield.
Enjoy!
 

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I picked up a Megane yesterday - got it home and tried the rear door - Jammed solid ! (I know - should have checked before buying :crazy: ! )

Popped off the door card and waggled the wires around ( I could hear the solenoid trying to unlock the car) and low and behold it worked ! :confused:

Put the door card back on and it wouldn't work :steam:

So on and so forth.
Card off - worked fine.
Card on wouldn't work :confused: .


Turned out to be the indicator (ie the button that goes up & down) was jammimng in its guide - A quick file of excess plastic later - door fixed !

I'm not saying this could be the answer to your problem, but its worth trying to rule it out, as it didn't cost a penny.

I presume its down to the solenoid not being strong enough to move the linkage and therefore unlock the door.

Chris
 

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forgot to add -

I also trimmed some of the protective foam away thats there to stop the linkage rattling, as it looked like it added resistance to the mechanism.
 

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my rear passenger was stuck shut because link from outside handle was disconnected and child lock was on. Removed door card and undid two 10mm nuts securing handle. A small plastic clip was broken that holds the link bar in place. I managed to replace it with a humble split pin and it has been fine ever since.
 

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hi all, im new to this and ive got the same problem with my megane, and i were wondering if renault changed the design of the inner door frame when they gave the car a facelift, or are harrys pics from a senic?

also ive tryed wiggleing the poles going to the lock, and to no avail, ill try harrys method tomorrow, but i cant really see where the holes on the lock are, ill take a picture of what i see tomorrow when its light.
 

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I know this is a bit after the fact but here goes.
When I had the door lock opened (see previous pages) I used lots of WD40,while pulling the door handle open and pushing the lock catch open at the same time.
Then closing the lock catch with my finger (used screwdriver untill i saw how latch worked) and repeating above untill lock worked as normal and applied some grease to finnish.(no need to replace lock)
Did this about 4/6 weeks ago and door is still ok.I would say that lack of lubrication (ooh! err! misses!) in the past had contributed to this problem.
Hope this helps any one searching here in future,cheers Alan
 

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Door finally opened

I used the technic explained in page 2 with pict, and after lot of hassling manage to free my scenic 1 rear door.

All that thanks to this post.

I as wondering if it's possible to repair the lock or if i need to go get one in scrpper, if so how much should it be ?

Thanks in advance.

Xav.
 

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i fixed my door by smashing the lock apart, and i then bought one from the scrapyard for about £20, as all my rods and the solenoid are in good condition
 

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What lock adapt ?

Am i right in thnk that the scenic 1 lock for a rear door is the same as a megane and laguna lock of that time ??

Very few scenics at scrappers around here (west yorkshire)

Thank you in advance.
 

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no i think that senics have larger locks, cos ther were only 2 at the srappers i went to, one were for the megane, which i took, but the first they shown me were from the senic model it it was approxamatly twice the size.

i couldnt tell you about the laguna tho,
 

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big help

:eek:
Following Goodwood's advice I got mine open, but then realised there is an easier way, ie without removing the solenoid. Encl some pics to show the way.

Background
There is a slot in the visible face of the lock, [see orange arrow in pic 1] where you can see the swinging catch plate (that catches the peg on the doorframe), and also see the latch that holds it. What we need to do is lift the latch, and the door opens. However the slot is largely hidden and not obvious. (unless you remove the lock-motor and white plastic shield, which you do not need to do).

The Wire:
To open the door without removing the lock motor and white polythene shield you need a special wire tool to spring the lock. However Renault have thoughtfully provided one with your car. Use the wire that connects the lock to the remote door catch! Unclip the end and remove it from the lock. You need to use the other end, with the dog-leg double bend

Where to put the wire:
Holding the wire so that the cranked end has the crank vertically down, you have to get the peg end into the start of the slot.
At the back corner of what you can see of the lock, level with the top of the lock motor, there is a 4mm hole [orange arrow head in 1st pic]. Use this as marker for the start of the slot, which is about 10mm outboard (left on the RH door) of this hole.
You can just see the hole in the middle of the last pic.
The peg end of your wire has to get in this slot, pushing in the wire until the dog-leg is against the lock surface. Then rotate (twist) the wire so the end pushes toward the door skin, (clockwise on an RH door) this will only need about 30 degrees, and negligible force. It is not quite straightforward as you have to catch a small edge, but a little wiggling will soon find it and open the door. It helps to hold the wire as straight along the car’s axis as possible, ideally going near the half-moon cut-out in the white plastic shield.
Enjoy!
had same problem with wifes 99 scenic ,your post saved me a lot of hassle ,now i ll just have to source a replacement lock ,great pictures wouldn t have got door open without looking at your post cheers andy:
 

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I'm having an issue with the drivers door on my Megane. It opens/closes fine but when you unlock the car you can here the central locking motor making a strange noise like it is struggling. It's been doing it on and off for 3 years :crazy: but since the cold snap around Christmas its been doing it every time I unlock the door. If the doors open and you lock/unlock it doesn't make this noise. I'm thinking that the lock may just need a little lubrication, having tried this there is no difference. Do I need to strip the door and remove the lock to lubricate it, or just wiggling the thing about in-situ and being more patient will help? :)
 
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