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Discussion Starter #1
Hi! Here's my first post!

I just bought a 1997 Clio Mk 1, which I got cheap because the passenger side is well down at the back. I took the rear wheel off and could move the trailing arm up and down with no resistance from the torsion bar spring, only from the shocker. So the spring is either snapped or is slipping on it's splines in the centre of the beam tube (I assume).

I've spent a while browsing around for info, as I'm new to these beam axles even though I've been messing with cars for forty years. I've owned Morris Minors, so understand torsion bar springing.

There are videos and accounts of torsion bar removal...simple enough if you can overcome the rust glue at the trailing arm end. But if a spring has snapped, one could pull out only one broken section. The other section would still be in its splines in the centre of the beam. I would imagine that this is impossible or at best extremely difficult to remove so that a replacement torsion bar could go in. I've seen videos where a guy pulls out half a bar, but there's never anything about the other bit.

I can't figure this one at all. Any help would be much appreciated, if only to get it off my mind!!!! :smile2:

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Never mind...I'll wait for the replacement beam to arrive and mess about with that.

Best wishes,

Paul
 

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Technical Supremo, Platinum Member
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Only other thing I can think of is take the other side out and see if you
can use a rod to drift the broken bit out from the opposite side
but I don't even know if that is possible.
 

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hi


this was a common failure on the Pugs (106, 205 + 309)


replacing the whole beam was the recommend cheapest option


Al
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Re: RegarThanks for the replies, guys!ding a Clio Mk 1 snapped torsion bar

Thanks for the replies, guys!

Yes, I understand why changing the whole beam is the best option in most cases. My problem is that I like thinking...there is NOTHING on the web about getting the innermost broken section of the torsion bar out. This bothers me, though I still manage to sleep well :smile2:.

I'm a seasoned welder...MIG with CO2...and it has occurred to me that I can cut out a section of the beam tube to get a visual of where the 'unremovable' section of the broken torsion bar is seated. I could later weld a plate over the cut. Now, some might think "Why bother? Just fit a replacement beam." The problem with that approach is that it limits the learning process. I've always had the most fun when fixing something with basic tools and no readily available spare part...it's called 'improvisation'. I know some mechanics in Poland who went through times of great difficulty...no web...no special tools...no parts...but they sorted stuff out.

Old school?

You betcha :smile2:

I luv it!!!!!!!!

I really do...and yes, I'm totally mad!

Best wishes,

Paul
 

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Technical Supremo, Platinum Member
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We used to call them "Super Bodges" when you could not get parts
and the make do and mend ended up as good or better than the org,
but unfortunately getting to old for that stuff these days.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Re: RegarThanks for the replies, guys!ding a Clio Mk 1 snapped torsion bar

Thanks for the replies, guys!

Yes, I understand why changing the whole beam is the best option in most cases. My problem is that I like thinking...there is NOTHING on the web about getting the innermost broken section of the torsion bar out. This bothers me, though I still manage to sleep well :smile2:.

I'm a seasoned welder...MIG with CO2...and it has occurred to me that I can cut out a section of the beam tube to get a visual of where the 'unremovable' section of the broken torsion bar is seated. I could later weld a plate over the cut. Now, some might think "Why bother? Just fit a replacement beam." The problem with that approach is that it limits the learning process. I've always had the most fun when fixing something with basic tools and no readily available spare part...it's called 'improvisation'. I know some mechanics in Poland who went through times of great difficulty...no web...no special tools...no parts...but they sorted stuff out.

Old school?

You betcha :smile2:

I luv it!!!!!!!!

I really do...and yes, I'm totally mad!

Best wishes,

Paul
OR you could read your messages, just a thought,,,
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I was amazed to find a Haynes manual (in English) on the Polish version of Ebay, known as Allegro. Paid eight quid with delivery...Haynes sell it for twenty-two quid in the UK. It arrived yesterday, not a mark on it, totally like new!

It has all the info I need on the rear axle and I now have a good idea of its construction. I'll let you know how I get on. Still no luck getting the snapped torsion bar out. Half the splines are totally clean, the other half gummed up with rust. The replacement beam assembly should be here soon, so in the meantime I'll work on all the nuts and connectors on the existing beam to get them loosened up for when I drop it.

Take care!

Paul.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Update...

The four nuts on the rear axle mounting bracket bolts are off! A bit of an endeavour with a short ring spanner but a lump hammer kept things turning. I need to buy a few tools but I wanted to get those nuts off so I know the axle swap is possible with any grinding and having to source replacement bolt(s)/nuts(s).

I'd be grateful for confirmation that the large nuts holding the rear hubs on are 30mm. I understand that I have to replace these with new ones.

Cheers!

Paul
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Should be 30mm, but just throwing this out there, read it as you will.
Your car goes for a full service, and rear drums are taken off, for a brake check..
Would they replace the nut...........:wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the info. I found an ageing 32mm ring spanner and it seems to be about 2mm too big.

Regarding the nuts...I doubt they'd get replaced during a service. But I'm a stickler for safety, so what I'll do is put some sticky tape on the threads before the nuts go back on.

:smile2:

Just kidding. I'll try to get some, but if not...maybe an extra few pounds on the torque? Would that improve the hold?
 

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Super Moderator Technical Supremo Platinum Member
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.........Just kidding. I'll try to get some, but if not...maybe an extra few pounds on the torque? Would that improve the hold?
Rather then added torque which could overstress things, think on liquid Thread Lock.
Locktite do versions ranging from tight to OMG that isn't coming off without dynamite
Dunno what is available in Poland but....
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Rather then added torque which could overstress things, think on liquid Thread Lock.
Locktite do versions ranging from tight to OMG that isn't coming off without dynamite
Dunno what is available in Poland but....
Rather then added torque which could overstress things, think on liquid Thread Lock.
Locktite do versions ranging from tight to OMG that isn't coming off without dynamite
Dunno what is available in Poland but....
Thanks for that!

Everything's available in Poland now, so I'll get some.

I want to give a little back, so I'm now going to do a thread about attacking nuts and bolts that have been undisturbed for many, many years.

Rust! The ol' enemy! It can be beaten, if one has the stamina and the determination.


Cheers!
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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How did you manage to jack it up to remove the subframe
 
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