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Discussion Starter #1
Morning Ladies and Gents,
Yesterday morning on my way to work, (Total commute is about 13 miles each way), The regenerate FAP message appeared on my dashboard. Whilst at work yesterday i check these forums and it the general concencus that a long drive about 50mph would resolve the problem. On the way home the message Check Injection appeared, there must have been about 15 - 20 miles between the two messages.

When I got home, the wife and I took the car for a drive out to dinner, the drive was about 40 miles, and because of the roadworks on the M20 took about 50 minutes. At no point, once I was on the motorway, (about 37 miles of the journey) did I let the speed drop below 50mph, most of the journey was done at about 55mph.

We sat and had dinner, came back (only about an hour later), and the messages were both still present.
So we took another long drive about 60 miles, this time I didn't go above 5th gear to try and keep the revs up (around 3000rpm), and was doing about 70 most of the way. - The messages persisted.
We then drove home, (another 20 miles or so) but the messages are still present.

The car is used mainly for family driving around town etc, but does get used a few times a week for commuting, (sometimes once a fortnight, other times all week, depending on how bad the weather is due to the fact I normally ride a motorcycle to work.) The commute consists of two dual carriageways, (one with a 50mph speed restriction and the other is 70, and about 5 miles of motorway.)

The car does get used for a few 20- 25 motorway miles per month, so not sure why this has happened. I've had the car for almost three years, and have it serviced every year - the next service is due in a little over 2000 miles. The car is still driving ok, and isn't in limp mode.

I have a Chinese Renault clip so I can run a forced regeneration, just not sure of the risk, and the procedure.

Any help is appreciated.
 

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I would NOT do a regen even though you can ...............

Since you have CLIP - setup logging all the engine parameters (check injection message points here), start the car and drive a normal trip for you while logging, save the log and post it here lets see .............

Since you have CLIP also you already will be able to see why the check injection light is on ito logged error messages (stored/active codes) ............... if a dash message is on then half the faultfinding is already done for you............... so what messages did you find? ...........there definitely will be at least one

Forcing a manual regen is bound to also fail (if that is what happened to the auto regen during your trips) if any of a bunch of pre-conditions is not satisfied
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks LVR, Just charging the laptop that I use with my clip, (only works on Windows XP apparently, so I keep an old one on hand.) Although if anyone knows where I can get the software to work on Windows 10, that would be great.

I'll try and log the journey home, just need to figure out how to do the logging. :D
 

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XP is a requirement for very early versions only......................Later versions of Clip run on W10 32 bit no problem.................. I have mine on W7 32 bit
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I've got version 146 but that just gave me the information i needed: I've been trying to install it on a 64bit system.

I've just saved a diagnostic report, the car wasn't running at this point.
 

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From all of that the important bit is all the garbage reported on the network ....................

I would ignore the rest and start there - if you don't have a stable network result and all computers talking sense you will be wasting your time doing anything else.

Gonna guess you either have a bad battery/cables of you had at some stage .............. start there.

Switch off ignition, wait 10 minutes, and then switch on the headlights and disconnect negative terminal from battery.

Go have a beer

Come back after 30 minutes, reconnect battery, switch off headlights.

Switch on ignition WITHOUT TOUCHING THROTTLE OR STARTING THE ENGINE (DASH LIGHTS MUST COME ON) - leave it like that for a minute

Switch off ignition.

Now start the engine normally and without touching the throttle allow about 5 minutes of idling for it to stabilize and relearn the current state of the throttle required to have it matched to the engine .............

Scan the vehicle again now and make sure the network is clean before doing anything else

Once the network is clean and stays clean, you can start clearing errors/faults in ALL computers and start tackling whatever is refusing to clear
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I've just had another look and cleared the stored codes, the only one that wouldn't clear is the failed regeneration attempts, this is showing as 9. it looks like there is about 21g of soot in the filter. the regenrate FAP message is gone from the dashboard, but check injection is still showing. (I assume this is due to the failed regens?)

The regens look like they all failed a while ago (106,800km) the car has done 106,200 miles now (about 173809km)

Thanks. for your help.
 

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Forget about the historical failed regens stuff stored .............. its a fact of life and quite valid given that some auto regen process was underway and eg you switched off causing it to fail

Tackle the stuff that doesnt make sense ito values for the dash "check injection" message on


Its just not possible to have a downstream temp higher than an upstream temp on the DPF ............... at the same time that differential pressure on the DPF is gaga.

Id say check for good connections on the DPF sensor, and also for split/blocked rubber hoses on the DPF sensor - at the same time clean INSIDE the actual metal nipples on the DPF plumbing .............. see if you can get sensible readings there

This is all why I said to actually log (as in create a list of time based parameter values) for the duration of a typical trip - you can then immediately see which values doesnt make sense ito the current driving conditions ............ the above 2 I mentioned (when sorted) imo should sort that dash message anyway
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ok, so the next question, is how and where do i find the dpf, filter and hoses?

I've just seen what you've said about the temps (upstream is at 50, and the downstream is at 200) - I'm guessing that would point to either a bad connection or a faulty sensor?
 

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I've just seen what you've said about the temps (upstream is at 50, and the downstream is at 200) - I'm guessing that would point to either a bad connection or a faulty sensor?
No it doesn't.................. its telling you to not believe the values in real life for whatever reason (same as the dash)

Could be sensor itself - could be connections - could be the blocked/cracked/broken tubes I mentioned - could be funky wiring or plugs - could be blocked exhaust plumbing nipple .................. pick one.......

DPF is metal lump just after turbo on the exhaust - it will have the rubber hoses (some are even metal) - one on each side of the DPF - if you follow the hoses they will both connect to the DPF sensor

 

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Go into Cabin Filter
Try and do a forced Regen ( It wont ) you will see what Temp sense is at fault, Good Bands go green, Bad Bands stay red,
Thats what you need to sort out the red band

IF at anytime, you feel uncomfortable with the engine sound, HIT the start button twice with your foot on the brake
DO NOT restart the engine until at least 10 ,minutes after the key card has been removed and drivers door has been opened.
Othewise Forced Regen will restart..
 
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