[funk-star]

Well after trauling the internet looking for a fix for my blower not working i stumbled across this site, so armed with common faults i started.

Now my fault was no blower on 1234 so this might not help some of you.

remove driver scuttle panel

unbolt firewall 10ish 10mm bolts

unplug fan connector and check voltage with ignition on and fan switch at 4

If you have 12volts then this is the cheap fix for you.

Remove blower unit (3 10mm bolts) and multiplug (slide red part out) and unclip the plastic clips making sure not to snap them (i broke 2 lol)

Now the unit is in 2 halfs grab the fan part and wiggle the motor unit out.

Pop the metal clips off sides to get to the brushes (2 clips & 2 springs)

If like me you will the wires and brushes destroyed.

Search ebay or google for siemens motor brushes and purchase (£12.50 for a pair)

now these will be to big but the graphite is soft as butter so these can be filed down so they slide in witout binding. (might also need to be shortened to around 15mm in length) I used some from a mk1 golf unit so size might vary.

you now need to trim the original wires to 10mm ish in length, also do the same on the new brushes.

Solder the 2 wires together and reassemble.

Plug back up and hey presto working blower.

saving of £195 from stealers for a hours work.

Hope this is of use to someone?

Cheers

Mark

 

[tuner]

Cheers

Mark

HI Funk-star,

Ive been searching inet as well to find a solution to what i have.
I have this; fan not working in either of 1234. But it is working when i apply 12v staright to fan(dismantled it) from car battery. THat means fan itself (without resistences block) is fine.
Now kud u please explain, u said
"remove driver scuttle panel

unbolt firewall 10ish 10mm bolts

unplug fan connector and check voltage with ignition on and fan switch at 4

If you have 12volts then this is the cheap fix for you."

Do u mean to say there is a fan connector behind driver panel? Is it easy to open panel? Do u need to dismantle steering wheel to get access to fan connector?
How do you start opening drivers panel? where are those 10mm bolts?
I have Haynes...

 

[funk-star]

HI Funk-star,

Ive been searching inet as well to find a solution to what i have.
I have this; fan not working in either of 1234. But it is working when i apply 12v staright to fan(dismantled it) from car battery. THat means fan itself (without resistences block) is fine.
Now kud u please explain, u said
"remove driver scuttle panel

unbolt firewall 10ish 10mm bolts

unplug fan connector and check voltage with ignition on and fan switch at 4

If you have 12volts then this is the cheap fix for you."

Do u mean to say there is a fan connector behind driver panel? Is it easy to open panel? Do u need to dismantle steering wheel to get access to fan connector?
How do you start opening drivers panel? where are those 10mm bolts?
I have Haynes...

Its all under bonnet work, the 10mm bolts are on the firewall / bulkhead, you will see the panel under screen area behind engine which will un bolt and allow easy acess to the fan gubbins (not the scuttle tray)
You can then unplug the motor and test voltage.

Where are you putting a direct 12v supply to the fan?

also if like you say the fan works then i would suggest checking the switch or fuse.

Hope you get it sorted

Cheers

Mark

 

[Hartleycheese04]

Hey sorry to be a pain but i am having the same problem as i am getting nothing when i turn on the fans. any chance could put a few pics on just to show us how to do it. Tell me where to go if ya dont want to

Are you also on about under where the window wipers are because i thought the motor was under there and there is a plug that could need cleaning under there

 

[adamh108]

if the fan motor spins connected directly, the resistor pack is most likely failing.

Hope this helps.

 

[Gerard]

I had a simular problem this morning.. in my 2001 mk2 clio. put the heating fans on & they worked fine, left the car to go to the shop & when i got back, turned the key in the ignition & the fans made a funny noise then cut out all together.. now no air of any sort (hot or cold) coming in to the car..!!! Can anyone help PLEASE..!!! :0)

Thank You.

 

[Loublue00]

Hi. wondered where the 'resistor pack 'is to be found, My Fan works on '4' only.

 

[pistanbroke]

Hi there, I had similar problems, starting off with no blower on any of the speeds. So I followed the instructions on this thread for removing the driver's scuttle (took me a while to realise I could just pull the black plastic screw out ). then unclipped the resistor pack and replaced the thermal fuse (99p + postage on Ebay) took out and checked the blower motor by removing the two screws from the back and sliding the motor out of the plastic housing and connecting directly to a 12v car battery (careful how you hold the unit when doing this, I suspended it on string), gave all the connections a bit of a squirt with WD40 and stuck it all back together.

Result; I now have number 4 speed but no others, so looks like I need to replace either the resistor or the relay (which is in the fuse bay by the battery, yellow one). If anyone knows a way to test which it might be please let me know.

Cheers!

si

 

[MrTibs]

if the fan motor spins connected directly, the resistor pack is most likely failing.

Hope this helps.

I have a intermitant fault on my blower unit, when it works its fine on 1-4 but then it stops working, and it sounds like a gradual loss of power to the motor, almost like a wheezing sound. Any ideas on this?

 

[MrTibs]

I have a intermitant fault on my blower unit, when it works its fine on 1-4 but then it stops working, and it sounds like a gradual loss of power to the motor, almost like a wheezing sound. Any ideas on this?

Fixed...it was the bushes, I just cleaned the plate they run over and its working fine. Ill replace the bushes next week. Its a very easy job btw :d

 

[Jackson7715]

Re: Renault Clio 2 - Heater Fan FAULTY*

My fan is currently on and off when it wants to work. Iv'e had to remove drivers side scuttle panel and tap the heater box to get it to come on now and then. sometimes even this doesn not work?. And u'll be driving and it'll just spring into life... rather oddly, u can hear it kicking in, then comes to whatever speed u have it set too. It works on all settings, 1,2,3, and 4. Anyone got any advice as to what to do?. or am i just looking at getting a new heater blower motor..???

 

[thisisrobbo]

Well after trauling the internet looking for a fix for my blower not working i stumbled across this site, so armed with common faults i started.

Now my fault was no blower on 1234 so this might not help some of you.

remove driver scuttle panel

unbolt firewall 10ish 10mm bolts

unplug fan connector and check voltage with ignition on and fan switch at 4

If you have 12volts then this is the cheap fix for you.

Remove blower unit (3 10mm bolts) and multiplug (slide red part out) and unclip the plastic clips making sure not to snap them (i broke 2 lol)

Now the unit is in 2 halfs grab the fan part and wiggle the motor unit out.

Pop the metal clips off sides to get to the brushes (2 clips & 2 springs)

If like me you will the wires and brushes destroyed.

Search ebay or google for siemens motor brushes and purchase (£12.50 for a pair)

now these will be to big but the graphite is soft as butter so these can be filed down so they slide in witout binding. (might also need to be shortened to around 15mm in length) I used some from a mk1 golf unit so size might vary.

you now need to trim the original wires to 10mm ish in length, also do the same on the new brushes.

Solder the 2 wires together and reassemble.

Plug back up and hey presto working blower.

saving of £195 from dealers for a hours work.

Hope this is of use to someone?

Cheers

Mark

I had a similar fault to this, fan was intermittent but worked on all four switch settings. When the fan did work it was sluggish and made some strange noises.

Using the info supplied in the above post I removed the fan from the car and took it to a work bench.

Disconnect the electrical plug, then remove the two cross point screws from the fan unit. Use a little bit of gentle persuasion and ease the fan and motor from the housing. You can now see the internal workings of the motor and the brush assemblies.

The brushes on my fan had plenty of "meat" left on them but they were a little bit corroded which was probably causing them to stick and not contact the commutator properly.

Note - Make a note of which way the brush is fitted before you remove it.

If you are very careful you can bend the clips that hold the brush and spring in place. (Watch out for the spring popping out when you release the clips).

CAUTION - DURING THE NEXT STAGE MAKE SURE THAT YOU DO NOT BREAK THE COPPER BRAID THAT ATTACHES THE BRUSH TO THE MOTOR.

Ease the brush out and then using some very fine emery paper clean the crud from all four sides of the brush. Replace the brush making sure that you refit it the same way that it was originally fitted and make sure that the brush is a nice smooth sliding fit. Refit the spring and re-secure by bending the clips back to their original position.

Repeat for the other brush.

You can also give the commutator a light clean with some very fine emery paper to remove the fine carbon deposits. The commutator should be a nice copper colour.

Re-assemble the motor to the housing and refit to the car.

Note - To make sure you have fixed the fault you can test the fan before you refit it to the car. (You might need an assistant to hold the fan securely in the engine bay whilst you do this, but make sure that their fingers are not near the moving fan as on setting 4 the fan rotates very quickly).

 

[Andy147]

I'm just about to start diagnostics on my son's 54 plate Expression. I will change the relay as a matter of course but which one is it? Yellow a previous contributor said...hmmm, can't see a yellow one in the engine bay fuse/relay enclosure. Can anyone tell me the relay part number and layout?

Thanks

 

[Andy147]

Well, it wasn't the relay!
I had 12V feeding the motor on position 4 but the motor was not turning. This signified that it was not the resistor pack either. Followed the instructions posted previously for removing the fan assembly motor housing and inspected the motor on the bench.

Somehow, and I'm not quite sure how, a small amount of water had leaked onto the uppermost brush assembly. Lots of carbon deposits here and the brush has seized.

Removed both brushes by carefully bending the kinked spring retainer straight and cleaned the brushes with very fine wet and dry (good tip that). Cleaned the brush housing with cotton buds with industrial meths (contact cleaner is good too). Also cleaned the motor's commutator. Reassembled, take care to retain the brush springs sufficiently by kinking the brass retainers. Don't over do it and squash the bush housing!!

Before reassembling it in the car, I temporarily connected the electrics and checked operation. Hey Presto, it worked!

Reassembly to the car was a bit difficult as a previous owner had damaged the slot that the tab at the bottom of the fan assembly mates with. It is easy to think that the housing is secure but check you cannot pull the bottom of the fan assembly towards the front of the car. It must be retained by the tab and slot (sorry no pics).

 

[A55ii]

Hi

good description Andy I also used a second cotton bud with some light oil and did the end bearings whilst I had he motor out, its now quiet when running too,. Al

 

[Mrfixit143]

Hi there just wondering if anybody knows what fuse is attached to the blower heater.