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Discussion Starter #1
Hello
Does any of you know what might be causing my car to be (how can I explain this!!) well for e.g. when I am stationery i.e. at traffic lights, my car chudders. I noticed it recently when I got out my car while it was running it doesnt sound to be running too good/smooth. Ive been told its something to do with the idling settings? wot ever that means??. Being a girl I dont know a great deal about what happens under the bonnet!
Can anyone help?
Ta K
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK if its not the coil, is it likely to be the throttle body? if so is this an expensive job for a garage to do?
 

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hi i had this exact problem and took it to renault. now they charge £58 for a stupid diagnostic and then charged me £20 for spark plugs the overall cost was £130 so i guess cleaning the throttle body was about £50.

if you do take it to renault tell them you just want the throttle body cleaned none of their poxy we can do this and you can pay a fortune. if not take it to your local macanic and tell him/her what you think the problem is

hope this helps

tom:)
 

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well it can be anything really, from lose hose or injector to engine failure, i would recommend a service eg oil change spark plugs get the hoses or injextors looked at as they might be leaking air which causes weird ticking over which happened to my clio...good luck
 

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hi i have a 1.4 16v clio 02 plate and i have the sme problems, i have changed the lambada sensor, coil, im forever changing the spark plugs, i di an engine flush fresh oil & filter, and my car is like "chitty chitty bang bang" lol its juddering that much you can't talk properly and the smoke coming from the exhaust is thick and smelly could it be a cracked head????
 

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well i have the exact same message as you have been to many local garages who could not find the problem so i left it and went to renault dealer who replaced coils and then i ended up with an electrical fault light .. wanted to charge me again for diagnostic at the time to check £65 at the time is now £72 mot coming up still having this issue was told couldnt be fixed by local garages brought it to renault again who put it on diagnostic told me it was the throttle body was dirty it needed cleaned and reprogrammed this costing £480 thats including geting a passenger seat cable fixed and diagnostic so pretty pricey .. was waiting for them to ring back tell me when i could collect my car - rang back said they ran the diagnostic again to check faults have cleared and after they cleaned the throttle new faults have showed up and apparently i need a new o2 sensor (lambda sensor everyone talks about) and this is going to bring my bill to £625 i wouldnt even pay that for a new clio to be honest because the problems with the electrics in these cars are constant and worth getting rid of any chance you get .. regret the day i give up a VW polo for a clio .. dont go to renault total rape ! unfortunate there the only people in my area with proper diagnostic and ability to reprogram ecu to hide faults the may or may not have fixed ! ps have this problem about 2 years now best feeling is driving away from any garage thinking its fixed and the disasterous electrical fault light coming back on!
 

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Another possibility if you have an older Clio 1.2, is the low tension wires which run up to the single "black box" ignition coil pack on the left hand side of the engine on these models.

Follow the wiring back from the coil pack plug, down past the brake fluid reservoir and check to see if the wires have been rubbing on the metal brake pipes. This can cause the wiring insulation to be worn away and an intermittent short circuit can occur. This fault can give the same symptoms as a failing coil pack.
(I changed a coil pack before the real problem was found! We were quite lucky there wasn't a fire I reckon).

We also had an intermittent vague burning smell which we couldn't trace for a couple of weeks before the car finally stopped running, and the battery hada tendency to go flat if the car wasn't driven for a few days....

If this has happened, replace or use decent insulating tape round the rogue wire and re-route the wiring so it doesn't happen again.
 

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I have had a lot of people ask me about issues with the throttle body, so here is the tutorial on how you should go about dismantling and cleaning it.

This should fix issues you have with your Clio idling erratically, misfiring, cutting out when pulling away and juddering at low revs, it should also stop the coil light from staying on in the dashboard and giving false readings on the computer when attached for diagnostics.​

Tools needed:-
1. 10mm socket with extension
2. 8mm ring spanner (to disconnect the earth from the battery)
3. Star socket to remove the throttle body from the manifold.

First you must disconnect the battery then pull out all the plug caps and place to one side and disconnect all of the wires on the engine loom that are attached to:-

1. The Air Pressure sensor
2. The coils
3. Unclip and lift up the large plug at the back of the engine (the black troublesome box can be removed, see at the end of this tutorial)
4. Remove the oil breather pipe and the other pipe to the left of the air filter
5. Remove the petrol pipe (bottom left of photo) this will be really stiff, just keep the green sides of the plug pressed firmly in and ease off

Note: Do NOT try to pull at the loom on the right hand side as this goes inside the manifold
Now unscrew the four bolts on the top and also the 10 bolts on the front, you will eventually find them as some are real hard to see, I must point out that you will need a THIN 10mm socket and at least a 6 inch extension to reach these bolts.



Once everything is unscrewed and disconnected, lift the manifold up a little then pull forwards slightly to free the manifold from the head. Now tilt the manifold forwards and again lift up and rotate the whole lot towards you, you will see the throttle body with a loom plug and the oxygen sensor plug. Disconnect the two plugs and remove the wiring loom from the manifold, this is a little tricky as you need to pull the loom out and over a plastic lug. You do not need to disconnect any of the fuel injectors. Now with the manifold upside down you will see the four retaining star screws holding the throttle body in place.


Here are some photos of one that was supposed to have been cleaned by a local mechanic, he was obviously a cowboy. Also below in the photo is the oxygen / idle sensor that is completely full of oil, this will give incorrect readings and cause your Clio to rev up and then drop to almost stalling speed, it will eventually either cut out or slowly settle down. Other symptoms of this will be stalling when pulling away and misfiring at low revs.





The socket for the oxygen / idle sensor which was also filled with oil, you can unclip this sensor and spray it with carb cleaner to clean all the crud off.


What the throttle body should look like after you have cleaned it up





Soaking up a ton of oil inside the manifold, make sure you clean every drop you see in there, also there is a very small breather that you must check and clean out shown in the right hand photo. Make sure you do not push the crud back into the hole.




Another important job to do before putting everything back is to clean any corrosion off the cylinder head, if you do not then the chances are that the manifold will not sit snug and you will get air leaks. Its always good to replace the four gasket rubbers if they are worn, but to be honest, if you clean the head up like I have, you will not need to replace them. I have never had a problem using the old gaskets again.





OK now your all ready to put everything back in reverse order, take your time and don't rush or force anything into place, once you have everything back and plugged in and bolted up, start her up and be amazed, it may run jumpy for the first few seconds because the petrol was emptied from the injector tube when you turned the manifold upside down, but after that's filled again you shouldn't have any problems..

I took the car back to the woman I fixed it for and she took it for a test drive, when she come back she was crying with joy because she had been having so many problems with her car since the day she bought it, she was just so happy that it was fixed at last. She had been charged an arm and a leg by Renault and cowboy mechanic and neither of them had fixed the problem for her, they just come up with excuses that this sensor or that sensor was at fault.

I hope this tutorial has helped you fix your car and have saved you £100's of pounds from a Renault dealer. If so, I am glad I have helped.

All the best with your DIY,
Cliff

P.S. this tut can be found here:- http://sandpit.no-ip.com/clio
 

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Re: Renault Clio 2004-Engines -Loss of power and Warning Light PROBLEM SOLVED
For all of you who have had problems with with above.

I am please to say that we have now had the car problem fixed.

1. Catalytic converter replaced. (not exhaust)
2. Throttle body cleaned.
3. Misfire on idle/removed and cleaned inlet manifold and covers, cleaned out oil deposits and reseat breather seal for air leak.
4. Fitted new gasket/clamp.

Car now runs like a dream no more loss of power.

Total cost at a garage £364.58 (this included a new front spring which had snapped)

Hope this solves all your issues
 

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Hi people im new to the forums wondering if someone could help.

Similar issue here, I bought a 51 clio 1.2 expression few days ago, seemed fine although thought it was a bit juddery but was taking it to be from my bad driving.

ive had it two weeks now and ive had 2 serious issues with it, going onto a the slip road the dam thing wouldnt pick up speed i originally thought i was in wrong gear but wasnt then suddently burst into life and jumped to 50 after only doing a steady 20mph

Other issue is less serious but from what ive read on here could get worse, it judders now and again, not all the time and mostly when its used first thing in the morning. it has stalled on me, but again wasnt sure if it was me or the car.

Ive been to a garage who said the lambda sensor MIGHT need to be changed..but ive also seen on here that people recommend getting a service eg oil change spark plugs get the hoses or injextors looked at as they might be leaking air which causes weird ticking over...

Also occasionally when sitting idle it sounds like the revs are really low. got this checked at the garage but of course it was fine then?

any help really much appreciated..also not sounding cheap i dont wanna spend alot on this so what would you do first?

CHeers


Will
 

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Another important job to do before putting everything back is to clean any corrosion off the cylinder head, if you do not then the chances are that the manifold will not sit snug and you will get air leaks. Its always good to replace the four gasket rubbers if they are worn, but to be honest, if you clean the head up like I have, you will not need to replace them. I have never had a problem using the old gaskets again.



Can I say a big thank you for your highly detailed post. I've just completed cleaning my throttle body out as I'd been getting some annoying rough idling and hesitancy when driving during warm-up and following your post I've been able to cure the problem (fingers crossed).

I do have a couple of questions based on the above photos. How exactly did you clean the corrosion off the cylinder head, what materials tools did you use and did you block the port openings to prevent rust/dust entering the cylinder head?

As I was unsure as to how you got yours so clean I only just cleaned around my ports with carb cleaner as I knew that's where the gaskets were going to seal against and I was hesitant that if I started to sand it all down to clean it all I'd get bits entering the cylinder head. The seal appears to be good but I would have liked to have got it like you did.

Also, slightly off topic, in the photo there's the brown connector for the knock sensor. How does this come off? I had a go at pulling it off but it wouldn't budge so is there a technique to releasing it? I know it's not required for getting access to the throttle body but I'd like to know now how to dis-connect it.

Thanks.
 

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Thank you so much for this thread! I have been having the idling/stalling problem for ages. My stepdad did the above to my throttle body and I have had no issues since (2 weeks). I thought it was the end! Thank you!
 

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I am having the same prob [as it seems a mutitude of clio drivers] and I'm very grateful for the pics of how to remove the manifold to get to the throttle body thank you.
 

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I'd also like to say thank you for the detailed information on cleaning the throttle body.

I undertook this cleaning at the same time as a full service and my girlfriends clio is now running sweet.

The black box covering the ECU loom is a total nightmare to get off if you don't understand how the little wheel works that holds the catch on. I ended up angle grinding a big line in the top of the box and inserting a large screw driver to bend the box so the top came off. be carefull if trying this though as you may damage the wiring.
 

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Hi all

Im having some problems and my clio seems to be miss-firing on number 4 and my gas monitor light flashes and stays on.

Renault diog said to replace number 4 injectors so i did nd still the same fault.

i have also changed the lamda sensor!

the only other strange thing i have is when the light flashed i have a loss of power and the car is slugish when pulling away but as soon as the light stops flashing and remains on i can feel the power come back.
it flashes the most when stopped!
I just dont know what else to do as renault want stupid money to find out whats wrong!
please help!
 
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