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:devil: Sorry it looks like the original post has deleted them from his image hosting up-loader :mad:

IMO we should insist on uploads using the forums own attachment facility, only Mods can remove them then.

Once again sorry. :eek:
 

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Thread resurrection but I guess MkIV Espace is getting a bit rare these days.

I'm in the midst of doing my rear pads. Being busy with other stuff they got left but thankfully the noise reported by Mrs Bendy Toy was the metal pad backing plate catching on the unworn rim of the disc. Its merely polished the rust so no harm done.

I wound the pistons back with pointed pliers into the two pin spanner holes in the piston and a trigger type G clamp. Just alternate one then the other. Wind it a turn; fit clamp and squeeze. Take clamp off and wind again; repeat until piston id fully back.

Its a bit of a faff but it does work and I may never do the job again on this car.
 

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Apologies for adding to an old thread.

We have a MkIv (2007) Grand Espace.

The front brakes are as described in this thread and were not too bad to change.

The rear brakes look nothing like those above!

The brake line is rigid and clamped to the strut, meaning that there is no movement to remove the calliper etc. so I guess a different approach is needed!
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Whats it clamped to the strut with, ( the metal pipe you mean )
Photos will help,,,
 

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Hi,

The rain stayed away and I managed to get some photos!










Hopefully these will give someone a clue!

Many thanks!

Matthew
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Ok that makes more sense, undo your calliper, flick the metal pipe out of the plastic clip that it is pushed into, it will clip out, bit of wd40 allows it to come out easier,.
You will have enough room then, the pipes, as long as not rusty (very rare ) will allow enough movement, try not to bend the metal pipe,
DONT lift the calliper to high and kink the flexi hose, as part of the pipe expensive, and easy to damage the inside of the flexi, no more than needed to get the calliper off..
 

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Thanks very much for that.

Do I need to remove the calliper assembly (the 2 large bolts on the back?) or just split the calliper with the 2 long allen bolts?

Thanks again!
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Ok ,, dont panic, get to the back, and undo the calliper carrier ..
Slide full calliper and carrier off, you will now have enough room to remove outer brake pad, then the inner brake pad, .
Now depending what part has snapped , if close to the carrier, and nothing to grab hold of, because bottom pin is out, calliper will come off..
Then another carrier , or drill out..
If top part where allen key goes in has sheared off, (if calliper can be gotten off, better still ) and you can get at the remains of the stud, refit carrier, and stilsons . mole grips should get it to undo.
If calliper can not come off, because of the length. then you will have to force the calliper far enough back towards the centre of the car, to hacksaw through the stud to allow calliper to come off.
Carrier is cheaper than a calliper,, bear that in mind ...
 

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Ok ,, dont panic, get to the back, and undo the calliper carrier ..
Slide full calliper and carrier off, you will now have enough room to remove outer brake pad, then the inner brake pad, .
Now depending what part has snapped , if close to the carrier, and nothing to grab hold of, because bottom pin is out, calliper will come off..
Then another carrier , or drill out..
If top part where allen key goes in has sheared off, (if calliper can be gotten off, better still ) and you can get at the remains of the stud, refit carrier, and stilsons . mole grips should get it to undo.
If calliper can not come off, because of the length. then you will have to force the calliper far enough back towards the centre of the car, to hacksaw through the stud to allow calliper to come off.
Carrier is cheaper than a calliper,, bear that in mind ...

Apologies - the photo didn't upload on my previous post! This should make more sense.

As an aside, why do we rotate the pistons to retract them, not just push them back in?

 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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So its take the calliper off, and drill or replace carrier.
Your other question ( sorry only been popping on and off) the piston has a worm gear inside, .

As the pedal is pressed, the piston moves out, and when the pedal is released the piston moves back:nerd:
If it had no worm gear , when you pulled the lever on, there would be nothing moving the piston, as it moves off hydraulics,.
To overcome this, a worm gear was added inside, so when the lever moves, it turns the worm gear and moves the piston, this then holds the pads firmly to the disc..
But to replace pads, the piston now needs to be rotated, to allow it to go back..
Hope that makes sense, if not ASK...
 
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