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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I am new to this forum, firstly the forum looks great and there is plenty of good advice on it.
Hopefully someone will be kind enough to give me some advice about my Renault kangoo van.

The problem :
Van won't start after being left for a long period of time approx 8 hours / overnight.

Once started runs fine. No smoke or lack of power.

Notice air bubbles inside clear fuel pipes between pump and filter.

Starts using easy start.


What I have tried already:

Checked glow plugs = working fine
Change feed to plugs = works fine.
Changed relay.
Changed fuel filter.
Done leak off test on injectors
Replaced leak off pipe.


After doing all this the air bubbles are still there and van still won't start.

Haven't replaced or had injectors checked yet as hoping it may be something easier and cheaper first.


If anyone has any other ideas that would be great?..

Many thanks
 

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Have you tried priming the system before a cold start - could be fuel is escaping past the non-return valve towards the tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for your reply.
I have tried priming (pumping the small hand pump next to the filter) . But makes no difference.

Any other ideas???
 

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Thanks for your reply.
I have tried priming (pumping the small hand pump next to the filter) . But makes no difference.

Any other ideas???
Make sure all the pipes on top of the filter are pushed on properly.
Try and look at the top of the filter to see if there is any DEISEL there will not be much it could just look like a water mark.
I had same problem i ended up replacing all the pipes to and from the filter to pump with rubber fuel pipe and HARD FIXING the pipes with clamps Also another problem could be the EGR SOLENOID VALVE CONTROL CIRCUIT (MEANING IT COULD BE JUST CLOGGED OR BLOCKED) CAN AND WILL CAUSE HARD START OR IMPOSSIBLE WHEN COLD
Regards Kenny
 

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Got exactly the same prob,local garage suggested putting a non return valve on somewhwere (wasn't very specific) think I'll investigate further before spending out loads of cash. The only visible thing is air in the pipe going into the filter.Fortunately after cranking over the fuel line seems to fill up and it normally starts on the next attempt.I fear thing will get worse!! Will post any developments.
 

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I also have the same issue, left my van the other day for 8 hours came out wouldnt start, bled diesel through and tried a bump for it still not to start, checked fuel lines fitted a non return valve and still no better off.... any ideas guys? cheers
 

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Anyone tried removing & cleaning the TDC sensor + it's probe? A very common problem with Renaults that are failing to start.
 

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Hi all. Everything listed above i have had issues with and heres what i did.

1. change filter housing. worked for a day or two and then wouldnt start

2. changed crank sensor worked fine for a week or two and then i discovered air in the fuel lines so in a morning it wouldnt start due to the lack of fuel.

3. changed fuel lines presuming i had a leak somewhere so it was drawing air in. that also made an impact but again for only a short time

lastly i changed sendor unit in the tank as this is the only other place i could think that it was drawing air in and to no avail its still sucking the fuel back to the tank. once primed my van starts thanks to a change in crank sensor but it runs (lump)/(surges) due to the bubbles in the fuel lines.


my garage say the only other option is the injector pump. not wanting to spend the money replacing it im looking for another resolution any ideas guys?
 

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Many times.
What motor are you driving, age, type, fuel?
What is happening or not?
What have you checked so far?
It will not cold start with out easy start. And when warm it still takes a few seconds. I've changed the fuel filter, glow plugs. What I think is the glow plug relay ( next to the battery) fuel pressure regulator.. I've managed to get all faults of the computer and all dash light of. Tho when driving hard I get the glow plug light come on and the red engine light come on. But goes str8 back out.
 

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I've managed to get all faults of the computer and all dash light of. Tho when driving hard I get the glow plug light come on and the red engine light come on. But goes str8 back out.
If you have faults and dash lights again DON'T clear them ..................... keep your scanner handy and as soon as you get the engine light, stop but dont switch off the engine - allow it to idle - plug in your scanner and read/record the faults present WHILE THE ENGINE IS STILL IDLING

Post what you found here else its going to be a guessing game and a waste of money
 

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If you have faults and dash lights again DON'T clear them ..................... keep your scanner handy and as soon as you get the engine light, stop but dont switch off the engine - allow it to idle - plug in your scanner and read/record the faults present WHILE THE ENGINE IS STILL IDLING

Post what you found here else its going to be a guessing game and a waste of money
The lights only come on for a spit second and nothing comes up on my OBD computer. I took the motor to a garage today for a bit of advice. ( someone I've used for years for jobs I can not do at the roadside) He told me its coursed by low fuel pressure. Which was one of my original fault codes that come up but went after I changed the fuel pressure Sencer. He has told me its likely to be the in tank fuel pump on its way out. I've done a little of research into this and it seems to add up to possably being that. So I'm going to order the part and keep my fingers crossed. I will update the forums on my progress.
 

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If your "OBD computer" is not 100% Renault enabled you will most likely only ever be able to look at emission related parameters so that may be the reason why you are not seeing anything - you need a proper Renault speaking tool. .................... imo if a fault is flashed on the dash and then disappears you will most likely be able to find a fault code listed as "logged" rather than "active" if you query the computer

If you know or can anticipate when the problem occurs a proper Renault tool like CLIP will be able to capture live values of all parameters that can be analyzed when looking back at the time the fault occurred - you dont even need a fault to be present if you know what to look for to spot trends

So if its his opinion that its the fuel pressure causing a problem via the fuel pump, why is he not actually measuring the value of that fuel pressure and looking at its behavior by using a log since you have a sensor and parameter to do that rather than guess about the cause? ................. and just so its said you could also have one or more funky/leaky injectors causing the same low fuel pressure issue
 

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I done a run of test today after your comments in regards to injecter or seals couseing the same problem. Would I be right in saying the bottle that is most full has a injecter problem. Also loads of air in it. Mainly that one injecter
 

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There you go then...................... replace that injector only and you should be good to go 🆒


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