definitely go for the copper/nickel alloy pipe, the plain copper tube will kink very easily if not using the correct dies to form curves, whereas the alloy is more forgiving in a DIY situation. Cost difference is about £4 per 25 ft coil.
The most important thing is to use good brass fittings and tube cutter, then take your time when making the correct shape flares with a good quality tool.
I decided to replace my brake fluid on a Kangoo 2002, since reading about new rules for MOT's and contaminated fluid. I also decided to remove the brake drums for a looksee; the rollers on the bearings one one side, simply fell apart so decided to change the bearings, then decided to change the brake pads as well.
Looking on Youtube for replacing such a bearing, there are a few videos of putting the drum in a domestic oven and the bearing in a freezer so decided to have a go. The first bearing from the freezer fell into place, the second one using the same time and temperatures just entered the drum and stuck!, fortunately a local mobile mechanic pressed this one into place for a small charge.
On renewing the brake fluid and when jacking up, I had a leak on a steely looking, brake pipe which was resting on top of a cross member, this was close to the connection between this steel pipe to the brake drum, and the flexible hose, this was caused by rubbing wear/abrasion of this brake pipe where it rests on a suspension cross member. I then had to replace this leaking pipe and used a copper replacement.
A question I still have, is with regard to the self adjuster ratchet for the drum brake to this Kangoo, how does it self adjust?. I have read that it is initially setup, by driving in reverse and then braking hard using the hand brake, is this the correct method?
It does NOT self adjust as such, you have to manually adjust the ratchet inside..You will see a wheel with teeth on it, you need to turn this until the drum will just go over the shoes, and when the drum is in place you can feel a slight drag off the drum..
Make sure the handbrake cable is released..
Once the drum brakes are adjusted, then adjust the handbrake..
Now in normal driving it will adjust,
It wont adjust if not adjusted by you first, what it will do, it will take your wheel cylinder out, cause a leak, as one of the internal pistons will travel to far out....
You will also have a sh1tty brake pedal..
Adjusting by driving in reverse..
You have leading and trailing shoes fitted inside the drum.
When you put your foot on the brake the front brake shoe ( leading ) will move first,, this is the one that one of the pistons in the cylinder will push first, once this hits the drum, then the pressure you have applied will make the rear piston push the trailing shoe against the drum..
Now in reverse, its the rear shoe that will become the leading shoe, and because your adjusting wheel on your brake adjuster is always the opposite end of your hand brake lever, the gap created will move the adjuster out two teeth, if you slam your brakes on hard,, but only if already pre set..
So if your wheel has fine teeth on it, if you dont cause a leak first, you would be slamming your brakes on for about 3 miles in reverse to take up the slack..
But at this point, the drums would be too hot, and expanded and you would still struggle..
But thats basically how your rear brakes work..
The old fashioned Fiats, that had adjusting pads, this slamming in reverse worked well , but not found any other car its actually worked on.. effectively
Just to add a bit to Ourkid's set up.
Make sure there is no lip inside the drum... on the edge where the shoes do not touch.
If there is, clean it off else you will only get the drum on with too large a gap for the hand brake adjusters to make up