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Premium Member
Laguna III Grand Tourer 2.0dCi Dynamique
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164 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Tools
19mm Socket / Wheel Brace
Jack & Axel Stands
17mm Socket
19mm Open Spanner
Grinder
2Kg Hammer & Chisel
Ball Joint Separator (Wedge)
21mm Socket
24mm spanner
Torque Wrench.

Removal
1. Using 19mm Socket or Wheel Brace slacken wheel nuts.
2. Jack up car and secure on axel stands
3. Remove wheel
4. Using a 17mm Socket, disconnect the track rod end from the hub.
5. Optional (just to get it out of the way) - Using a 19mm spanner slacken the lock nut on the track rod end 1/2 a turn and remove the latter by simply unscrewing.
6. Remove ABS sensor cable
7. Using a 24mm spanner remove the nut at the top of the ball joint (found this quite stiff with no room to put a socket on it)
8. :d If the ball joint to be removed was a replacement, you're laughing - Using 17mm socket and spanner remove nuts and bolts
:devil: If the ball joint to be removed is original it will be riveted on. This is the fun part took me almost two hours. :crazy::(:mad::confused::crazy:
9. Using a cutting disc grind off the heads of the rivets at the bottom of the ball joint.
10. Using the chisel and wedge remove the ball joint from wishbone (lots of banging required - those rivets are very, very tight - took me ages).:crazy::mad::(:confused::crazy:
11. :loser: Very Important - Using your grinder again grind along the side of the rivet to make it thinner and easier to go through the wishbone so that when you hammer them through, and they tend to flatten more, they don't end up just getting even harder to remove.
12. Hammer the rivets out. :crazy:

Fitting
1. Using the 3 nuts and bolts supplied, fit the new ball joint to the wishbone (I torqued these to 60Nm).
2. As someone else posted, it's easier to remove the hub carrier to fit the new ball joint. Using a 21mm Socket remove the two bolts holding the hub carrier to the strut.
3. Raise the hub carrier into place on the ball joint.
4. Refit the hub carries to the strut using original 21mm bolts and torque to 180Nm
5. Fit and tighten the 24mm nut on the ball joint. This is supposed to be torqued to 110Nm. How in god's name you're supposed to do this without having taken out the drive, I have no idea.
6. Replace ABS cable
7. Replace track rod end remembering you slackened the lock nut 1/2 a turn.
8. Attach Track Rod End to Hub using 17mm nut and torque to 37Nm
9. Refit wheel
10. Lower car
11. Torque wheel nuts to 105Nm :guinness:
 

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Registered
Joined
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5 Posts
Tools
19mm Socket / Wheel Brace
Jack & Axel Stands
17mm Socket
19mm Open Spanner
Grinder
2Kg Hammer & Chisel
Ball Joint Separator (Wedge)
21mm Socket
24mm spanner
Torque Wrench.

Removal
1. Using 19mm Socket or Wheel Brace slacken wheel nuts.
2. Jack up car and secure on axel stands
3. Remove wheel
4. Using a 17mm Socket, disconnect the track rod end from the hub.
5. Optional (just to get it out of the way) - Using a 19mm spanner slacken the lock nut on the track rod end 1/2 a turn and remove the latter by simply unscrewing.
6. Remove ABS sensor cable
7. Using a 24mm spanner remove the nut at the top of the ball joint (found this quite stiff with no room to put a socket on it)
8. :d If the ball joint to be removed was a replacement, you're laughing - Using 17mm socket and spanner remove nuts and bolts
:devil: If the ball joint to be removed is original it will be riveted on. This is the fun part took me almost two hours. :crazy::(:mad::confused::crazy:
9. Using a cutting disc grind off the heads of the rivets at the bottom of the ball joint.
10. Using the chisel and wedge remove the ball joint from wishbone (lots of banging required - those rivets are very, very tight - took me ages).:crazy::mad::(:confused::crazy:
11. :loser: Very Important - Using your grinder again grind along the side of the rivet to make it thinner and easier to go through the wishbone so that when you hammer them through, and they tend to flatten more, they don't end up just getting even harder to remove.
12. Hammer the rivets out. :crazy:

Fitting
1. Using the 3 nuts and bolts supplied, fit the new ball joint to the wishbone (I torqued these to 60Nm).
2. As someone else posted, it's easier to remove the hub carrier to fit the new ball joint. Using a 21mm Socket remove the two bolts holding the hub carrier to the strut.
3. Raise the hub carrier into place on the ball joint.
4. Refit the hub carries to the strut using original 21mm bolts and torque to 180Nm
5. Fit and tighten the 24mm nut on the ball joint. This is supposed to be torqued to 110Nm. How in god's name you're supposed to do this without having taken out the drive, I have no idea.
6. Replace ABS cable
7. Replace track rod end remembering you slackened the lock nut 1/2 a turn.
8. Attach Track Rod End to Hub using 17mm nut and torque to 37Nm
9. Refit wheel
10. Lower car
11. Torque wheel nuts to 105Nm :guinness:
Just done this job on the nearside front, it is a fiddly job but I found that it wasn't necessary to remove or disconnect the track rod at all, I turned the steering about half lock to the left and when the lower arm is pushed down just swing the leg towards the back of the car, you will need to disconnect the drop link to do this though. I found that drilling the rivets out from above was a quicker and easier option than using the grinder. These are just my thought's on the job and by no means the right/wrong way of doing it.
Thanks for the Original post though
Carl
 

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Premium Member
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53 Posts
no grinder:crazy: so i opted for the gas axe:d done them in no time.
 

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Registered
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42 Posts
I followed a similar guide and its can be difficult getting the rivits out to replace the balljoints refitting is much easier. But within six months notice that the rubber bushing on wishbone where worn. Wishbone comes with balljoint so would have been better to have replace the lot rather than doing the job twice.
 

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Registered
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25 Posts
Hello Folks,

I've started this job on my MKII Laguna and i'm a bit stuck!

Luckily the off-side (driver side) ball joint has separated from the hub carrier BUT i can't break loose the locking nut on the thing. So far i've thrown WD40 on it but it won't budge.

Is the lock nut meant to unlock clockwise or anti clockwise? Can it be ceased? The inner track rod is 14mm while the locking nut is 20mm on this which differs to the instructions above.. I am completely lost here but I know I don't want to spend £75 pr hr to have it removed. Any ideas? I've attached a pic.

Thanks All.
 

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Registered
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7 Posts
hi there,i have a 2001 1.9dci and need to replace all discs and wishbones.the discs look easy enough but not sure if the wishbones can be done on axel stands by a diy'er.any advice would be great or if someone wants to get their hands dirty and help that would be even better,thanks in advance
 

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Premium Member
Joined
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98 Posts
I'm new to Renaults so this is my first proper post

Hi folks :cool:

I wanted to add my 2p as I always seem to end up with cars that need work. Hopefully my Lag wont be one of them any time soon.

For really stuck bolts try tightening just a few degrees with a long breaker bar, then loosen.
(Righty-tighty Lefty-loosy) :)

But be careful - there is nothing worse than shearing off a bolt.

A nut splitter can be handy where there is space but so often its bolts that are stuck. My solution is to arc weld the top of the bolt. This puts concentrated heat directly into the offending thread.

But arc welding can be harmful to the electrics
# Disconnect the battery
# Disconnect the engine ECU
# Put the earth clamp close to the work area.

If a ball joint nut keeps spinning either split the nut or try to get some fine grinding paste into the taper and hold it together with a G clamp. The nut should then unscrew. If you go for nut splitting you have to go the whole way. The nut will compress onto the threads and be impossible to turn if you give up half done.
 

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Technical Supremo, Platinum Member
Joined
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1,544 Posts
A good trick to free off the nut that locks up against the track rod end is to use the 2 hammer method.....with a hammer in each hand hit the nut from both sides at the same time....give it a few good blows, now the nut should undo easily.

I've used this method quite a few times and it has always worked.

Cheers.
 

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1 Posts
Hi all, just done my bottom ball joints on the advice from the info on here and i must say what an exellent and spot on tutorial it is ! anyone thinking of taking this task on....give yourself PLENTY of time ! as it does involve lots of hammering and grinding and lots of patience !!!! as said in the previous thread....they ARE very very tight....good luck if your thinking of taking this on !
 
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