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Discussion Starter #1
I bought one of those recharge bottles with the gauge to top up my wifes Megane air con. This worked like a charm so I thought I'd do the same for my Laguna II the problem is I cant see where the valve is to connect to. Any one have any ideas?
:confused:
 

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Hello & Welcome to the Forums Pw1962.

I'm sure someone will be along to assist with your post shortly.


Regards

Ottoman
 

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There is only one A/C port on the Laguna, and that is the High pressure one..
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Er, Ok so how do you top up then? I assume it means you can't use the top up cans as the port is a different size & I guess the pressure in that part of the system is too high?
Is there a do it yourself answer?
 

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I too would like to know. I've got a Laguna 2, and can only see the high side connector, on the top of the evaporator.

Alex
 

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You cant DIY.. Go and see a professional that will test and recharge it correctly and Legally!
 

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Hi I watched my laguna being re-gassed last year and if I can remember rightly , front drivers side under those silly plastic covers next to the power steering top up. Its worth having a look
 

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Webcode

Webcode, as an ex renault eng, can you advise where to get teh adapter for the m15 on the ddehydration cannister so that a std 13mm can be used or a 15mm adapter and hose that will fit a standard tap adapter please.!!

cheers

Andy
 

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There is a way

OK here goes. I got fed up with all these 'renault experts' scare mongering and telling tales of illegal and legal top ups but heres my story.

As I said I was fed up with the renault bull¤¤¤¤ so investigated the old fashioned way, with a decent toolshop a pencil, and pad to find that renault in their typically french way decided to remove the high side port on the laguna and only have the low side - with a twist. it is fitted with a high side port valve. this appears to be welded to the dehydration cannister just to make sure you cant replace it with a retrofit kit or attach a standard low side port such as is found on any top up kit .

The bottom line is that any air con engineer with half a brain would just reverse their hoses and use the high side hose on the low side fill system. So yesterday i purchased a couple of cans of r134a with leak stop and oil, a high side service port valve, a standard hose with 1/4 couplers and can adapter with guage and topped up the system with no problems at all That was a week ago and ~I have had ice cold air con since.

Whilst the set up cost the same as a renault top up, i now have the tools to top up whenever i want and dont have to be ripped off and only now need to buy refrigerant which is readily available for 15.00.

Oh and by the way, it does not require you to be licenced to do this only to remove the old r12 systems which these are not.
 

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Hi A.S. - how did you get the old refrigerant out - as far as I know it can only be completely removed under vacuum. And how do you know how much refrigerant is now in the system - in my experience air-con systems are filled by weight or volume measured in grammes and not pressure.
Keep us updated on your idea of refilling, etc:)

Under Health and Safety legislation the release of R12 or R134a into the atmospehere has been banned since 1991 - some 16 years ago. This is clearly stated on page 2 of the pdf document link below

http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg349.pdf
 

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how much in grams of r134a gas do you put in a lag 2 , thats all we want to know
and where is the low side port:steam:
 

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Hi Kamesy - there is no low-side port - only one available I'm afraid - I take it your air-con engineer doesn't have the info., on Renaults. Most independent air-con engineers will have the info., you require.:)
 

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Seriously though - 45quid to have the old stuff removed, leaktested and the right ammount of oil/gas put back in. Its just not worth bothering with refill kits.
 

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Info for a.s.wright

All car A/C systems lose refrigerant over a period of time, approx 10-15% per year. When the refrigerant leaks away it is often replaced by air which contains moisture. If you refill the system without having it vacuumed the refrigerant re-acts with the moisture forming an acid. This acid can rapidly corrode an A/C system which is made of very thin guage aluminium. The answer to this always use a fully trained A/C engineer who should also use UV dye which also aids leak detection on corroded components. A problem you may soon have.:cool:
 

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kwik fit charged me 35 notes. Though I had to wait an age because it was a saturday it was freakin steal! It can be an expensive system when it goes wrong - bumper off to change the condenser for instance - 35 every 1 or 2 years gotta be worth it...

edit: for a while I thought my compressor was dead - has always been noisy - but for now its all working good, especially with the freshly soldered climate panel :d
 

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Excellent! I know some purists on here won't approve but a quick top up to the right system pressure seems to work well :)

Can you post the ebay product link?

Cheers!

:d
 

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Excellent! I know some purists on here won't approve but a quick top up to the right system pressure seems to work well :)

Can you post the ebay product link?

Cheers!

:d
Any idea what the correct pressure should be - I was always under the impression all air-con systems should be filled by volume and not pressure:confused:
 

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Assuming the contents of the system are refrigerant and its within normal operating temperatures then it should be possible to get a reasonable top up by checking the pressure level. Again this assumes its sufficiently high pressure and free of blockages to force out any contaminants or that there are no contaminants... Not a full service but heh, I fill up my central heating system and can choose any level between 1 and 3 bar!!! No idea what's in there ;)

The pressure levels are supplied with the product I believe?

ps. I usually keep it at 1.4 :)
 
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