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Discussion Starter #1
Hi. All.

I am looking at buying a car that is cheap, but has an issue. Car turns over but will not start.Owner has had the computer changed and it started and ran for two weeks, then went out and on returning home car would not start, turns over but will not start. Any Ideas
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Deffo was a Runner Ian , and someone is not trying to pull a fast one here..
Have you had a look at it , and it sounds like its electrical, and not a cam belt issue
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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If electrical.
Disconnect the earth just off and on.
Then see what the dash shows up.
If you have a power pack, jump leads take with you..
Any diagnostics, if yes just do a scan, and clear the codes.
look for tell tale signs of standing awhile, discs and how the tyres look, rust inside exhaust tail pipe, wipers blades for signs of not being moved across the screen, .
With all NONRUNNERS its a punt, and the cars are never ever worth more than that..
You could find its something as daft as a cranksensor, or under bonnet fuse box ( Don't overlook under bonnet fuse boxes, especially when ecus have been diagnosed as faulty )

Good luck with it
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi Been to look at the Car, The battery still strong, turn the key and it cranked over a few times, I did the battery, no light came on. I do not have an Diagnostic equipment, so could not get any codes. He said that he also changed the coil. He wants R15k on Internet Cars sells for R44 to 69K . It has not been standing for long no rust on break discs and no rust in exhaust tail pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi, I Decided to get the Car. I have Checked, the Battery terminals they were loose, fixed that, The Coil has been replaced and the Computer box behind the Battery. I checked all fuses they Fine, The Top of the Key, the two buttons for the central locking are damaged, Central locking not working Changed Battery in key, was flat.The Dash board Immobilizer goes off. No Spark at the Spark Plugs leads. I am not sure if the crank censer maybe the problem, how do I check ?

Thanks for your Help

Ian
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Can you hear the fuel pump, when ignition is first switched on?
Crank sensor, its really a multimeter set on AC, then connect the probes to the sensor, and crank the engine
You should see the AC voltage change ,
But its getting a good connection with the probes ( Break out box really needed here )
(Multimeter on OHMS might work, if you get a reading around 220 ohms, but this only gives the info that its not open circuit.. But not a guaranteed method of proving the sensor is good ..)

Will be on the gearbox BELLHOUSING , but could be down the back
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hi
Thanks for your reply, I have checked both wire from the crank shaft sensor and I get a reading from both. See attached pic, Crank Shaft Sensor.

The Plug that goes into the Coil, has 4 pins but only 3 wires. I get a reading from all 3 wires when cranking the engine. I see that the wire have been cut and reconnected, (I think the Plug has been replaced) maybe reconnected wrong, seen there are two purple wires ?

I have checked the spark plugs no spark on them, Previous owner has replaced the coil, It does look new, very clean. ( Maybe faulty?)

I hear A click and a a short hum when turning on ignition before start.

So there is power to the coil but not from the coil to the leads. Could it be all 4 spark plug leads?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi
I have checked to look for the conman lead by checking each lead that goes into the ignition coil module. I turned the ignition on to just before start and checked each wire and I received no dc reading from any of the leads. Why would that happen, there should be 12v if I am right ?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Can you hear the fuel pump, when ignition is first switched on?
Crank sensor, its really a multimeter set on AC, then connect the probes to the sensor, and crank the engine
You should see the AC voltage change ,
But its getting a good connection with the probes ( Break out box really needed here )
(Multimeter on OHMS might work, if you get a reading around 220 ohms, but this only gives the info that its not open circuit.. But not a guaranteed method of proving the sensor is good ..)

Will be on the gearbox BELLHOUSING , but could be down the back
Not sure what you mean (Break out box really needed here) What box ?
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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A break out box is a box, with connectors that fits in between the loom, and the sensor, and the probes are placed inside the box, but you would just be using one side of the box
Just saves putting cuts into wires..
AM lost on Got a reading on both wires
You need to disconnect the sensor, then with the probes on the sensor terminals OF THE SENSOR , you then get someone to crank the engine, and you should see a voltage reading using the AC readings of your multimeter..



So you have power to one terminal of the coil, so you know thats good..
DOES it sound as though you have compression on the engine..
 

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Discussion Starter #16
A break out box is a box, with connectors that fits in between the loom, and the sensor, and the probes are placed inside the box, but you would just be using one side of the box
Just saves putting cuts into wires..
AM lost on Got a reading on both wires
You need to disconnect the sensor, then with the probes on the sensor terminals OF THE SENSOR , you then get someone to crank the engine, and you should see a voltage reading using the AC readings of your multimeter..



So you have power to one terminal of the coil, so you know thats good..
DOES it sound as though you have compression on the engine..
I have power to all three wires when I crank the motor, but no power on any of the three wires when I just have the ignition on.

Must I take a reading on the crank shaft
1.The plug(Blue) unplugged, reading the wires only.
2. The Sensor on the gearbox,(Blue) plug out and take a reading on the sensor cranking the motor
3. The Sensor off the gearbox with wire still connected

So you have power to one terminal of the coil, so you know thats good..
DOES it sound as though you have compression on the engine..
[/QUOTE]

There is power on all three wires, when cranking the motor
There is no Power with just the ignition on, on any of the three wire. I was told to test the current with just the ignition on, not starting or cranking the motor. To find the common wire. I was told one wire should show a current with ignition on
 
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