Hi LvRI dont have one of the real fancy Maxicom ones - I have a MD802 Elite and AP200 from Autel.
In this particular case I doubt you will be able to learn anything more with either a real Clip or a Maxicom (or any other scanner for that matter) ................ from what I can see here (I have not followed the detail logic applied along the way), there is a connection/wiring or computer issue and ANY scanner is going to be near useless to go further than simply listing the moans/codes reported by the ECU on a non-standard or "as it left the factory" status.
I am feeling confident saying not to spend money on a fancy scanner - either Clip or Autel or anything else............ if you want a nice powerful device for the future though I would say the AP200 is probably ideal
Hi LvR thanks for your reply.Ian, without actually having the thing personally to inspect and do a partial cleanup on, this is going to be very airy fairy subject to comment on imo
I don't know for a fact what the engineering detail for the driver section of the coils in that ECU is like, but it looks like 2 IGBTs on a wasted spark design taking care of a coil each.
These things are normally quite reliable and is driven with a pulse only - no continuous current flow at all ................ so for them to start sending out smoke signals I will have to guess either a short or incorrect wires got connected to the outputs of the ECU ..................and thus without knowing EXACTLY what led to their demise, a recommendation is an educated guess only.
I normally take a fiber pen
Works like a self propelling pencil - simply twist the end to make the glass fibre brush go in and out of the pen style holder. WATCH & CLOCK MAKERS GLASS FIBRE SCRATCH BRUSH.www.ebay.com
and scrub off all the burnt varnish around all components etc to get to the bare copper just to see how deep the burn damage really is ................ if its only superficial I would consider replacing components and try a repair - if there are any holes burnt into the pcb that makes you even suspect one or more layers inside the PCB could have sustained damage, I wouldn't even attempt a repair.
The problem with a burnt pcb is the conductive carbon created in the burning process ................. and on a multi-layer pcb its often not possible to reliably remove all of THAT
Me? ................ if I were to replace components and attempt a repair, I would at first only hang a simple 5W indicator globe connected to earth off that ECU connection driving the coil (without the coil connected) ................ plug the ECU into the vehicles harness and see if the globe is showing life in sympathy when the engine is turned over using the key
If the globe is flashing as expected chances are you have a ECU that MAY be alive ...................... and I would then do as per @serser69 recipe with the ECU disconnected from the harness
FWIW I have repaired many ECUs damaged way worse than this and saved a lot of clients a lot of money in the process so don't be scared
Can you make a drawing of what it is you measured - I am not sure I understandI have checked the Two purple wire that goes from the Ecu to the Coil Pack. I checked continuity and Received 1.7ohm on each of the same wires. But If I move one prop to the other purple wire, I still get an ohm reading of 0.6.
Sorry Ian still unclear to me ..................Hi LvR
Please see attached, The diagram you asked me to draw.
I have cut and pulled the two purple wires through and done a reading with them far apart from each other and got 0.5 ohm continuity on both wire, and If I do the same as in the diagram cross wire I do not get a reading. I have checked the wire and they look good, I cut the two purple wire a distance from the coil pack plug and I done a continuity test on both wires and get 0.5 and crossed them and get no reading, so its not the plug, must be the wires. There are no breaks in both purple wires, they were a little wet when I pull them through the loom.