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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Dont know Ian .
Would not like say yes, never used one ..
Think @LvR uses one
So he could be best person to ask, as he uses Clip, Autel
 

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I dont have one of the real fancy Maxicom ones - I have a MD802 Elite and AP200 from Autel.

In this particular case I doubt you will be able to learn anything more with either a real Clip or a Maxicom (or any other scanner for that matter) ................ from what I can see here (I have not followed the detail logic applied along the way), there is a connection/wiring or computer issue and ANY scanner is going to be near useless to go further than simply listing the moans/codes reported by the ECU on a non-standard or "as it left the factory" status.

I am feeling confident saying not to spend money on a fancy scanner - either Clip or Autel or anything else............ if you want a nice powerful device for the future though I would say the AP200 is probably ideal
 

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Discussion Starter #204
I dont have one of the real fancy Maxicom ones - I have a MD802 Elite and AP200 from Autel.

In this particular case I doubt you will be able to learn anything more with either a real Clip or a Maxicom (or any other scanner for that matter) ................ from what I can see here (I have not followed the detail logic applied along the way), there is a connection/wiring or computer issue and ANY scanner is going to be near useless to go further than simply listing the moans/codes reported by the ECU on a non-standard or "as it left the factory" status.

I am feeling confident saying not to spend money on a fancy scanner - either Clip or Autel or anything else............ if you want a nice powerful device for the future though I would say the AP200 is probably ideal
Hi LvR

Thanks so much for your advice. I have noticed that the scanner are expensive, The Guy with the Autel Maxicom was going to charge me R500. No Call out as he is also in Table view

But I am not going to waste money if you think it's a waste of time. Do you have any other suggestion ?
 

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Discussion Starter #205 (Edited)
Hi Good Morning all

I hope you are all ok. I have checked all wires and fuses, I have the Old Ecu and noticed that it had been opened, See pic Logan ECU old. There are small resisters 4 of them that have blown next to each other. I looked between the Small resisters to find the pin that coincide with the small Resisters. I found it to be pin 32. This is the same wire that goes to the Coil Pack.
If you look at the Old ECU a cross was marked on the Transistor, I checked if there is any resistance on it and I get nothing, the one above I do get but only on the small short prob and the top or Right depending on how you look at it (longer prob)
I then Open the one that was replaced that is inside the car, It has been opened before, very easy to open, and found the same small resistors blown and the same Transistor. I can replace the Ecu but need to find out what caused it.

I also took a reading and on both purple wire that goes to the the coil pack, I got a reading on the one to be 11v and the other one a lot lower. So it could be the wiring to the coil pack that has shorted but I get continuity on both wires.

There is power that goes to the Fuel pump Relay which works (checked), Stuart you said that the command then goes to the INJECTION LOCKING RELAY (238), there is a red wire that then goes to a fuse, then to the ecu,on pin 30 its a 5A fuse (597), but was replaced with a 10A fuse, could the extra 5A that could now pass through have caused the small resister and Transistor to blow ? Please see pic 2 Current ECU attached
 

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repair ECU.
check all wires,inch by inch visualy.wires wich go from ECU to coil pack ,and all wires in same loom where is that "coil pack " wires, look how wires behave when you move them ,look in resistance change,voltage change...
and connect everithing and try to start engine.
its posible that old coil pack kill ECU . or that same bad wire-connection,kill ECU and coil pack.
but check,check wires connections,multiple times,..
that's what I would do

but i'am not profesional auto-repair man
 

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Ian, without actually having the thing personally to inspect and do a partial cleanup on, this is going to be very airy fairy subject to comment on imo

I don't know for a fact what the engineering detail for the driver section of the coils in that ECU is like, but it looks like 2 IGBTs on a wasted spark design taking care of a coil each.

These things are normally quite reliable and is driven with a pulse only - no continuous current flow at all ................ so for them to start sending out smoke signals I will have to guess either a short or incorrect wires got connected to the outputs of the ECU ..................and thus without knowing EXACTLY what led to their demise, a recommendation is an educated guess only.

I normally take a fiber pen


and scrub off all the burnt varnish around all components etc to get to the bare copper just to see how deep the burn damage really is ................ if its only superficial I would consider replacing components and try a repair - if there are any holes burnt into the pcb that makes you even suspect one or more layers inside the PCB could have sustained damage, I wouldn't even attempt a repair.

The problem with a burnt pcb is the conductive carbon created in the burning process ................. and on a multi-layer pcb its often not possible to reliably remove all of THAT

Me? ................ if I were to replace components and attempt a repair, I would at first only hang a simple 5W indicator globe connected to earth off that ECU connection driving the coil (without the coil connected) ................ plug the ECU into the vehicles harness and see if the globe is showing life in sympathy when the engine is turned over using the key

If the globe is flashing as expected chances are you have a ECU that MAY be alive ...................... and I would then do as per @serser69 recipe with the ECU disconnected from the harness

FWIW I have repaired many ECUs damaged way worse than this and saved a lot of clients a lot of money in the process so don't be scared
 

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Discussion Starter #209
Ian, without actually having the thing personally to inspect and do a partial cleanup on, this is going to be very airy fairy subject to comment on imo

I don't know for a fact what the engineering detail for the driver section of the coils in that ECU is like, but it looks like 2 IGBTs on a wasted spark design taking care of a coil each.

These things are normally quite reliable and is driven with a pulse only - no continuous current flow at all ................ so for them to start sending out smoke signals I will have to guess either a short or incorrect wires got connected to the outputs of the ECU ..................and thus without knowing EXACTLY what led to their demise, a recommendation is an educated guess only.

I normally take a fiber pen


and scrub off all the burnt varnish around all components etc to get to the bare copper just to see how deep the burn damage really is ................ if its only superficial I would consider replacing components and try a repair - if there are any holes burnt into the pcb that makes you even suspect one or more layers inside the PCB could have sustained damage, I wouldn't even attempt a repair.

The problem with a burnt pcb is the conductive carbon created in the burning process ................. and on a multi-layer pcb its often not possible to reliably remove all of THAT

Me? ................ if I were to replace components and attempt a repair, I would at first only hang a simple 5W indicator globe connected to earth off that ECU connection driving the coil (without the coil connected) ................ plug the ECU into the vehicles harness and see if the globe is showing life in sympathy when the engine is turned over using the key

If the globe is flashing as expected chances are you have a ECU that MAY be alive ...................... and I would then do as per @serser69 recipe with the ECU disconnected from the harness

FWIW I have repaired many ECUs damaged way worse than this and saved a lot of clients a lot of money in the process so don't be scared
Hi LvR thanks for your reply.
I will do that, Is there any way to find out the value of the small resisters, I took it in today to see if I can get parts but they could not see the values

Also, do you know of a place in Cape Town that will replace them for me, thanks A lot

Ian
 

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Discussion Starter #211
Hi LvR

Good evening, I managed to get another used ecu for R1,500. I now need to code the new ECU to the Car, Do you know if I can do it with a Delphi DS150E. Do I just need to code the key to the new ECU and change the Vin Number?

I have checked the Two purple wire that goes from the Ecu to the Coil Pack. I checked continuity and Received 1.7ohm on each of the same wires. But If I move one prop to the other purple wire, I still get an ohm reading of 0.6.
I am sure this is not right and that the two wires are connecting somewhere

Many Thanks

Ian
 

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NO it wont Ian,
You need something along the lines of a Clip interface
 

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I have checked the Two purple wire that goes from the Ecu to the Coil Pack. I checked continuity and Received 1.7ohm on each of the same wires. But If I move one prop to the other purple wire, I still get an ohm reading of 0.6.
Can you make a drawing of what it is you measured - I am not sure I understand
 

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Discussion Starter #214
Hi LvR

Please see attached, The diagram you asked me to draw.
I have cut and pulled the two purple wires through and done a reading with them far apart from each other and got 0.5 ohm continuity on both wire, and If I do the same as in the diagram cross wire I do not get a reading. I have checked the wire and they look good, I cut the two purple wire a distance from the coil pack plug and I done a continuity test on both wires and get 0.5 and crossed them and get no reading, so its not the plug, must be the wires. There are no breaks in both purple wires, they were a little wet when I pull them through the loom.
 

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Hi LvR

Please see attached, The diagram you asked me to draw.
I have cut and pulled the two purple wires through and done a reading with them far apart from each other and got 0.5 ohm continuity on both wire, and If I do the same as in the diagram cross wire I do not get a reading. I have checked the wire and they look good, I cut the two purple wire a distance from the coil pack plug and I done a continuity test on both wires and get 0.5 and crossed them and get no reading, so its not the plug, must be the wires. There are no breaks in both purple wires, they were a little wet when I pull them through the loom.
Sorry Ian still unclear to me ..................

You cut the wires where?
You pulled them through where/what/

Basically - if you measure resistance - per wire - across 2 cut ends on THAT wire - then around 1 ohm is ok and to be expected

If any end of the wires is still connected to a socket then all bets are off - I have seen many sockets where connectors inside the socket somehow developed a partial/complete short as a result of corrosion or melted connectors due to bad surface contact.

............... or is my dunce cap a perfect fit again?
 

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Discussion Starter #217 (Edited)
I cut the two Purple wires about a hands width away from the Coil Pack Plug, both of them, and left the brown wire still connected. I then went to the other side of the loom other side of the motor and pulled the two purple wires through the loom, towards the ECU. I now have the two wires away from the loom, apart from each other, and then took a reading from the ECU plug to the end of the one Purple wire and got a reading of 0.5, ( The same as I would get If I touched the two meter prongs together). I did this on both Purple wires, and got a reading of 0.5. I then put the red prong on the Ecu Plug and connected it to the other purple wire and did not get a reading. ( But when the wires were still connected I did get a reading, if I crossed the prongs over ) As in diagram. I did this at the beginning of the conversation thread, and again today before I cut.
If I do the same at the Coil pack plug, all is ok, no cross readings, so I will have to check tomorrow as it is raining now. On the ECU side, How would you suggest I check the ECU plug when the connectors are so small in the plug?
 

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Yeah I see the cold struck you guys already today :eek:

Hier in Pretoria sal ons seker eers more begin koud kry :)

OK I still am not sure what you are saying so let me try this:

I have taken your diagram and modified it so that it matches what I think you are saying using your own words:

Logan Purple wire.jpg






Do I have it right now? ................ and if so, can you explain the bit in red top right?
 

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Discussion Starter #219 (Edited)
Hi
I use to stay in Kempton Park, and I know how cold it gets after Cape Town has a cold Front.
Yes you got it right, the part in the read is Correct,( The Maths. On first connecting the wire to the meter I get a high reading and as I keep it there for awhile I get 0.6 as the number come down, it does not stay at the high reading, This is with the Ecu harness plugged out) How will I get those wire out to clean them from the ECU harness ?
I will need to have the ECU coded, its from a Sandero 1.6 and I have a Logan 1.6. The box is the same I am told. I have googled to find some one with a Can Clip Diagnostic tool to do the coding, but no one works with the Renault Can clip in Cap town that I can find. Can Any other Scan Ecu tool do the job ?
 

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If the plug connected to the harness is unplugged from the ECU then you must have a short or some funkiness' inside the plug there ................... that 0.6 is just not possible.

What sort of a meter have you got ................... perhaps a Fluke or some fancy brand with a differential measurement ability?
 
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