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If you are 100% sure the 2 purple wire's ends are not touching and that the insulation all along the wires are in good condition then I am afraid that ECU plug is scrap imo .................. I would not even try to salvage it if you have not yet been able to see any cause for alarm with the naked eye ................. the pin spacing on those are so small you will not be able to affect a reliable repair even if you can disassemble it.

I suspect your 0.6 reading is as a result of corrosion inside that plug causing galvanic problems
 

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Discussion Starter #222
Hi No its a cheap R100 one from Midas, The first Tim I got a reading when it was still connected, before I cut, I got 1.7, so maybe I read it wrong, or it was on a wrong setting.

Can you help me with how to get in to the harness to clean it out?
 

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You are not going to like what I say ...................

I just cannot see from those pictures of the plug with the 2 purple wires how you should get conductivity the way you reported.:confused:

I have a feeling you are chasing a non-existent problem.

Both the upper and lower sides of the plug seems to be pristine and its not worth trying to disassemble that plug assembly

So lets rather confirm your readings:

If you were able to get a 0.6ohm reading something caused it - and that reading means an effective short on the 2 wires, so lets prove that first:

See this pic and do the experiment ................... tell me if the globe lights up when you have it connected like this and with the ECU plug still hanging loose................

IMG_20200610_212355.jpg
 

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Yeah I see the cold struck you guys already today :eek:

Hier in Pretoria sal ons seker eers more begin koud kry :)

OK I still am not sure what you are saying so let me try this:

I have taken your diagram and modified it so that it matches what I think you are saying using your own words:

View attachment 184445





Do I have it right now? ................ and if so, can you explain the bit in red top right?
So can you also repeat this experiment in the picture there and in stead of only telling us what you measured, once you have the probes connected, take a photo of the setup and detail of the meter face - iow post 3 photos please
 

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Discussion Starter #226
So can you also repeat this experiment in the picture there and in stead of only telling us what you measured, once you have the probes connected, take a photo of the setup and detail of the meter face - iow post 3 photos please
Hi

Ok I will have to try this tomorrow, thanks for the feed back, it been raining all day, Thanks for your help thus far
 

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Discussion Starter #227
Hi I got a chance to go out Side and do the test
1. Continuity on Purple wire A - See first Pic 1
2. Continuity on Purple wire B - See second pic 2
3. Continuity on Purple wire B - A little later lower - See Pic 3
4. Power Test Light only - See pic 4
5. Purple wire A connected to Positive battery from ECU Harness and purple wire b connected to Test light connected to negative battery from ECU Harness - See Pic 5

I did not get a reading on meter doing cross test with wire out of wire loom to coil pack,after doing the above test. I only got a cross wire reading before I cut the wires from the Coil pack Harness.

See attached chat with Stuart 24 days ago Point 2

Discussion Starter • #128 24 d ago
Hi Stuart

I have checked a few things today

1/ I have found the wire pin for the EML,number 34,from diagram,I have checked from ECU and there is power.

2/ I have Checked the Wire that was open and taped in last Pic, Its Pin 32 and I have checked and there is power, This wire goes to the coil Pack. There is Continuity between the two points, Pin 32 and Coil pack . I have checked Pin 1 that also goes to the coil pack and only when I crank the motor does this Pin 1 show a current.There is Continuity between the two points, Pin 1 and Coil Pack.
The Strange thing is that I get Continuity even if I Have Pin 1 on Negative pole and Move the Positive to the other purple wire.(Continuity between two different wires ?) I then tried that on Pin 34 and the same.
 

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Ian I have to say that meter plain sucks and is probably the reason you have not made much progress ....................

That red text I queried - your pictures 4 and 5 basically is saying I was correct - there cannot be a 0.6 reading in that position - iow there is no short in the plug as the earlier reported reading indicated.

Picture 2 and 3 is the biggest indicator the meter is not up to the job - no way in hell such a large swing is possible on a single conductor over time ................ I would accept perhaps a 0.1 change with time but not 4.3

................. the mere fact you cannot get even within 10% of your earlier reported values makes basically everything you reported and that anybody suggested in this thread a total bust.

IMO you have to start over with a good quality meter that will produce repeatable results no matter the time of day and the length of time you leave the meter connected to 2 points
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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You seem to have a reading in one of your pictures with the multimeter switched off

YOU have a After Ignition Issue, You keep scanning and getting the same result

Spend a DAY and put all the relays and fuses in the correct place in your under bonnet fuse box


Go through every relay and fuse, even if it means marking each relay with nail varnish

You know someone has been there before you, but you have no idea whats been bypassed or bodged
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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So you got a super duper laptop then. Am Jealous
Had to zoom in to see, It looks like a segment of his switch is missing unless I zoom in..
 

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Discussion Starter #233
Hi all I hope you all are ok.

No I am still trying to find the problem , I have sorted out the Fuse box in the Engine compartment. See Pic Attached

I have had another look at the ECU. I have found out that the small resisters that blew are linked to pin 61,62 and 63.

61 and 62 have no wires connecting to it. 63 has a wire and it goes to (887) UPSTREAM OXYGEN SENSOR. The Sensor has 4 points. Numbered 1 -4. 63 is connected to point number 3 on (887). (See on the Diagram attached)
It looks like to me that it is connected to Point 4 through the (887) UPSTREAM OXYGEN SENSOR. The blue line that leaves (887) to me looks like an Earth connects to a bunch of blue lines (11 of them ) If you Look at bottom blue line it goes to (250) VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR. I then Remembered me that when I got the car from the previous owner there was a wire in that was loose coming from the Glove box. See Pic Attached. I asked the previous owner what this was and he said that it was for a taxi meter, I followed the wires and noticed it was connected to a bare wire from the (250) VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR. The wire to the Sensor was opened and the wire attached, It was not taped up, left open.

So What I am thinking is that there was a surge from the Taxi meter, that then connected to the Speed sensor (250) then traveled down the Earth to (887) UPSTREAM OXYGEN SENSOR then through the Oxygen sensor onto point 3 to Pin 63 of (120) ECU, blowing the 4 resistors. The Same wire that was Connected to the (250) VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR that sent the surge down the Earth wire connected to the other 11 blue wires, the second one from the Bottom goes to (238) INJECTION LOCKING RELAY. (238) is linked to the (236) FUEL PUMP RELAY. Point B5 brown wire ( Earth) is linked to (778)QUADRUPLE IGNITION COIL MODULE through point c. Both Times Ecu had to be replaced so (778) QUADRUPLE IGNITION COIL MODULE also had to be replaced. From (778) QUADRUPLE IGNITION COIL MODULE you have Point A connected through purple wire to Pin 32 on (120) ECU. The Transistor that blow is also connected to pin 32. So I think that the Taxi meter caused the fault, maybe the meter had a problem. I do not have the Meter so I can not test it.
 

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you can to desolder suspected resistors and transistor from two old ECU , and then make good one, and try to start car.

p.s : that things what you present to as, is narrow rabbit hole,and that space is only for one person.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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so the fuses, and relays are in the correct place now Ian??????,
These will now match up to the Diagrams??????
 

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Discussion Starter #236 (Edited)
Hi Guys I hope you are all ok.

SERSER69 I have tried to replace the 4 Resisters and changed the Transistor and I still got no Start.

I managed to find an ECU Kit from an Nissan NP200, the Car Starts :):), But Now has a misfire. The code that comes up is a
DF361 - IGNITION COIL 1 4
  • INTERMITTENT
  • SHORT CIRCUIT OR OPEN CIRCUIT
I have Checked the Coil Pack and I get a Reading from Both 1-4 and 2-3 Points
Any Ideas ?

Stuart I still do not get the EML light coming on when ignition is on.

Thanks
Ian
 

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Discussion Starter #237
Hi Guys I hope you are all ok.

SERSER69 I have tried to replace the 4 Resisters and changed the Transistor and I still got no Start.

I managed to find an ECU Kit from an Nissan NP200, the Car Starts :):), But Now has a misfire. The code that comes up is a
DF361 - IGNITION COIL 1 4
  • INTERMITTENT
  • SHORT CIRCUIT OR OPEN CIRCUIT
I have Checked the Coil Pack and I get a Reading from Both 1-4 and 2-3 Points
Any Ideas ?

Stuart I still do not get the EML light coming on when ignition is on.

Thanks
Ian
Hi Have also noticed that the Battery Light stays on, Battery is flat.
I looked at the negative connection, it was no tight, I have tighten it, had to push start car run but still misfire. And Battery light stays on.

I took the Air sensor cable off and noticed this, see in pic 1 attached, Two wires twisted together,I took the two wire apart and you can see that the wire on both have been cut and exposed and then twisted together, See Last Pic2

Could this be the problem ?
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Have we got this right here Ian , you can bump start the car now

Whats diagnostics reading while its running..

Well done by the way for not giving up with it
 

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Discussion Starter #239
Have we got this right here Ian , you can bump start the car now

Whats diagnostics reading while its running..

Well done by the way for not giving up with it
Hi S

Yes we have, thanks so much for all your guys help, now I need stop the miss fire, I have checked the Alternater, its not charging the Battery, going to check brushes. Could this cause the car to miss fire and not idle properly, idle below 1000 rpm. And if cold dies.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Yes if battery is flatish
Alternator powers all the engine,

Usually it will switch certain items/modules off Airbag module, and in extreme cases ABS module ,

Can you do a Diagnostics with it running,
Remember Ian, on these,, its a type of smart charge system, the thin wire from the alternator is a data wire, and this informs the alternator to charge VIA the UPC
So check the small wire from the alternator also .
 
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