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Hi Guys I hope you are all ok.

SERSER69 I have tried to replace the 4 Resisters and changed the Transistor and I still got no Start.

I managed to find an ECU Kit from an Nissan NP200, the Car Starts :):), But Now has a misfire. The code that comes up is a
DF361 - IGNITION COIL 1 4
  • INTERMITTENT
  • SHORT CIRCUIT OR OPEN CIRCUIT
I have Checked the Coil Pack and I get a Reading from Both 1-4 and 2-3 Points
Any Ideas ?

Stuart I still do not get the EML light coming on when ignition is on.

Thanks
Ian
GOOD !
charge battery or replace , and if still missfire , chek simple thing first , leads,spark plugs..
 

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Discussion Starter #244
Yes if battery is flatish
Alternator powers all the engine,

Usually it will switch certain items/modules off Airbag module, and in extreme cases ABS module ,

Can you do a Diagnostics with it running,
Remember Ian, on these,, its a type of smart charge system, the thin wire from the alternator is a data wire, and this informs the alternator to charge VIA the UPC
So check the small wire from the alternator also .
 

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Discussion Starter #245
Hi all

Ok I got the Logan running well, it was the Positive cable that was not tight on the alternator. Thanks so much to all who helped thanks

Now because I put in an UCH from A Nissan NP200 and the NP200 only has front Window, the Logan front Electric Window work but the back do not,Is this just a program issue that can be changed with a Scanner.?
 

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2006 Kangoo 1.5DciType XC1G K9K 718/JR5 145 or 116
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Ha Ha I fell like a real twit. It was a Button that locks the back windows, silly me
Dear Ian,

Congratulations on succeeding - you must feel really proud to have won this war!

I have been following the ups and downs of this problem, and I think almost all people would have given up on this one, but you stuck with it - good for you.

For anyone who may find this thread, could you determine the main problems you encountered?

Is see at the end, the Alternator positive terminal was loose (was it a nut type connector?) which caused non-charging and battery light on dashboard.

Regarding the non starting, what would you say the main cause was? I did see these cables that were twisted together and the insulation was exposed - what were they connected to?

Hope the car remains working

Regards

Russ
 

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Discussion Starter #249 (Edited)
Dear Ian,

Congratulations on succeeding - you must feel really proud to have won this war!

I have been following the ups and downs of this problem, and I think almost all people would have given up on this one, but you stuck with it - good for you.

For anyone who may find this thread, could you determine the main problems you encountered?

Is see at the end, the Alternator positive terminal was loose (was it a nut type connector?) which caused non-charging and battery light on dashboard.

Regarding the non starting, what would you say the main cause was? I did see these cables that were twisted together and the insulation was exposed - what were they connected to?

Hope the car remains working

Regards

Russ
Hi russ17

Thanks for your email.
To Answer the question that you have asked.

Regarding the non starting,I am not sure what the issue could have been, If it was one thing or a number of things.
The things that I did fine that may have caused the problem was
1. The Fuse for the Fuel pump was a 10A and it should have been a 5A.
2. In the ECU there was 4 resistors that had blown, that stopped the Car from starting I traced the Wiring back from pin 61 and found that it was a negative wire that branched out to a few places (11 Wires), one went to the Speed sensor, On this wire the previous owner connected a Taxi meter, the job looked very Micky mouse, and I think that the problem started from here, maybe there was a short on the Taxi meter. One of the other (11 wire) went to the Fog lights and the wires at the Steering wheel switch for the Fog lights wire burnt , I also found the Earth wire from the fog to the Relay were burnt.
3. I also found that there was cross continuity between the two purple wires that lead from the ECU to the coil pack. Once I had taken the loom apart and separated the wires there was no continuity across the wires. When opening the loom the wires were damp, I replaced the wires.
4 Then there was the Twisted wires that were exposed and twisted together at the point where they were exposed.
So I am not sure what the course was, but I think it had to do with the Taxi meter.

(I see at the end, the Alternator positive terminal was loose (was it a nut type connector?) which caused non-charging and battery light on dashboard) I thought it was the nut type connector, I tighten the bolt and the light when off but is once again on, so still trying to solve that one.

Thanks for the mail

Ian
 

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Does the Light come on straight away Ian, or after being run for 10 minutes ( Or there about )
Would be looking at the brush holder/regulator ( That part ) Alternators work different on the Renault/dacia models , its a data link from the UPC, and this tells the alternator when to charge
MAKE sure all numbers match if getting one of these
 

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Discussion Starter #251
Hi All it is once again Me with the Logan.

As I put on the Last message, I thought the nut on the positive terminal on the Alternator was loose and once I tighten it the Light at the Dash went out. Well its back again.

I have check and it is not charging the Battery, A new one is R4,5k and a second had one is R2k, I do not have the cash for that, So I have Replaced the Alternator regulator,the split ring,(They were well worn down) and I gave it a good clean. The Sensor from the Power steering pump is leaking and it is above the Alternator, so I think this is what has caused the alternator to give up.

I have also checked the small thin wire that goes to the alternator. And i get a current from that wire.

Any Ideas what it could be ?

Thanks for all your help thus far

Ian
 

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Discussion Starter #252
Does the Light come on straight away Ian, or after being run for 10 minutes ( Or there about )
Would be looking at the brush holder/regulator ( That part ) Alternators work different on the Renault/dacia models , its a data link from the UPC, and this tells the alternator when to charge
MAKE sure all numbers match if getting one of these
Hi Stuart.

No the Alternator light stays on and does not go out.
 

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Discussion Starter #254
I have just been thinking. When I had a Scenic 2 and I had the Ecu replace the Air Con did not work, and It ended up been that the ECU from the Dona car Air-con was different, they changed the settings and it worked.

I had asked for the Alternator from the Nissan NP200 (It was only R500) that I got the ECU from and when I meet with the guy I noticed that the Alternator was different, could this be the problem ?
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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That would say is your regulator mate. not a fuse box issue ( If alternator has not been reversed and tucked diodes up (these only read one way ) )


But if you are able to test them, without tucking the alternator body up stripping the alternator is another matter ..

But whatever method you choose, match the numbers, so many differences that the Eye believes is correct, but internals are different

No mate Alternator is controlled by under bonnet fuse box

YOU never did say how you managed to get past the IMMO on donor ECU..
Or is that a secret and you would have to kill us if you told us
 

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Discussion Starter #256
That would say is your regulator mate. not a fuse box issue ( If alternator has not been reversed and tucked diodes up (these only read one way ) )


But if you are able to test them, without tucking the alternator body up stripping the alternator is another matter ..

But whatever method you choose, match the numbers, so many differences that the Eye believes is correct, but internals are different

No mate Alternator is controlled by under bonnet fuse box

YOU never did say how you managed to get past the IMMO on donor ECU..
Or is that a secret and you would have to kill us if you told us
I changed the Regulator and it still does not charge, Do you not thing that the Ecu thinks that the NP200 Alternator is still in the car and there fore does not recognise the Alternator in the logan ?

(YOU never did say how you managed to get past the IMMO on donor ECU.) I changed the UCH and the Key as well from the NP200 , so I changed the three. ECU, UCH and the Key
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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ecu HAS no control over the alternator charging circuit, its all from under the bonnet fuse box

Whats fault code

( It will show a fault code, )

You have traced the wire back from alternator to the battery to make sure thats ok, as you found the nut was lose, so no issues with that line
the small thin data wire goes to the fuse box, have you checked this
 

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Discussion Starter #258
I have been through the wire diagram for the Engine bay fuse box, I have checked for continuity to all the fuses in the Engine bay fuse box, for the Small thin data wire and I find nothing.
I have even taken out each fuse and checked from the connections

When the Car is running the is a current coming threw the thin wire .
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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as long as the main power lead from alternator to battery is good, and if got an in line fuse, and this is good , then go for alternator
 
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