hi im new here and its a really good site
just one ? ive just fitted new front brake pads and cant seem to do the back ones the car is an 2004 megane ive tryed winding them back and the pistons dont seem to move thanks for any info on this matter
You are right about it being a good site,the forums are full of information..and full of helpful members too.
Your rear brakes,am i correct in thinking they are disc brakes?
If i'm correct the piston does need screwing back in to get the gap for new pads,this is easier said than done but can be achieved by not only winding clockwise (i.e screwing in) at the same time push the piston home so the threads catch within the caliper.You are also forcing the brake fluid back into the master cylinder to make it easier undo the bleed nipple and let the fluid escape there, when finished bleed the system.
thanks for helping and the fast response
i have taken the resevoir cap off not done the bleed nipple yet as i didnt want to bleed the system it was just winding the piston back as i cant seem to get it to go back but i will try again and let you know thanks again
New to all this but trying to replace the rear pads on scenic 02 1.9d and had the same problems. Could not wind the piston back far enough to get the new pads in ended up putting the old ones in. Did you manage to wind the piston back enough. Any tips.
Hi Badger - did you let of the adjustment off the handbrake cable first. What I normally do is release the cable off to its minimum and disconnect the cable from the caliper - wind the piston back - then connect once the caliper and pads are in place.
I can only answer for my vehicle, 1.6 Megane. In order to reset the piston in the calliper push the piston back into the calliper to engage the thread and then screwed in clockwise (both sides). A special tool is available from Halfords and other accessory shops (currently £22). This tool allows you to put pressure on the piston at the same time as rotating it. When using the tool I found enough pressure could be exerted on the piston by operating the tool by hand (not using a spanner) If the piston is seized you may need to resort to more force Make sure the handbrake is released as this will hold the piston out and prevent you engaging the thread. Slacken the reservoir cap and check the level of the brake fluid before starting as fluid will be pumped back into the reservoir during this process, wrap some cloth around the top to soak up any excess if you think it might over flow. If the piston does not fully retract you may need to slacken off the handbrake adjustment as this can hold the piston out. Good luck
It vital that the handbrake adjustment be released to its full extent before depressing the rear caliper pistons otherwise the internal mechanism of the caliper can be damaged.
Always open the bleeder when depressing the piston to allow excess fluid to escape especially if the vehicle has ABS. The ABS control unit doesn't always take kindly to fluid being forced the wrong way.