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ok my car has a very annoying and dangerous problem, its cutting out at junctions when you put the clutch down.

the revs move between 500 and 1000 rpm as if its got a vacuum problem, and intermittently the car just stalls with all the warning lights coming on as if i have just turned the ignition key twice before starting.

it does it the most when the car is on a slope! nearly crashed when i lost power steering, our lass is scared to get in the car.

someone please help, is ther a hose which may be off? or something common i can look for?

paul
 

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Hi Doubleyou - check all the vacuum hoses are intact and showing no signs of cracking - also check the vacuum pipe to the brake servo - does the car idle OK on its own - one other possibilty is either duff coils or a faulty TDC sensor. If you search through the forum you'll find numerous posts regerding both coill and TDC problems.:)
 

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Hi pdoubleyou, have u sorted the problem on ur scenic? i'm having the same problem with my Laguna. Jus wondering what the problem was with ur car and hoping it could shed some light as to what is wrong with heap of ¤¤¤¤ :)
 

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Both could also be caused by a faulty Idle Air Control Valve.

If either of you are interested,I'll take a picture of the location of the valve.
 

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Thanx lagdti

Hi mate thanx 4 the reply, is the air idle control valve the 1 that sit on the top of the throttle body? If not would u mind taking a picture please so that i know wot i'm lookin 4 :) Do u also kno how i'd clean the throttle body out? goin back 2 months ago the timing pulley collapsed but when the car came back from the renault dealer they never put the induction kit back properly so i'd like to clear any muck and gunk out of there.

Thanx in advance 4 any advice given mate,

Ian
 

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Here we go.:)

The Idle Air Control Valve is shown by the yellow arrow....





It's very easy to get to on my Lag 1,but I suspect the Scenic is a little more awkward as the engine is set back under the scuttle panel.

With the ignition off,unclip the wire connector and undo the two fixing screws.(mine were philips headed,but they could be torx screws on yours.

This is what the unit looks like when it's removed...



There is a plunger on the end which moves in and out to allow air to pass by it when the ECU senses the engine needs to idle.There is a tapered end on it which seals against the seat in the inlet manifold.Dirt and carbon deposits can build up here and cause the seal to leak.In some circumsatnces the plunger can stick,or the electric motor that works it can pack up,meaning the engine won't idle.

You can gently clean the taper and the seat with a piece of soft cloth,but make sure you don't drop anything through the hole into the inlet manifold.....:eek:

The seat is marked in green...



Re-fit the valve and see if it makes any difference!.Cleaning can sometimes help,and if not,you haven't lost anything.:)
 

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No more cutting out

Hi lagdti, I've sprayed some wd40 on the idle control valve on tuesday and the car aint attemptin 2 cut out anymore so thanx alot 4 the advise.

Ian :):):):)
 

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hi lagtdi, would that be the same for a laguna 1, 2.0ltr 16v? is it fitted same place?, my car has just developed similar symptoms.
 

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mine too!

My Scenic RX4 wont idle at all, have to keep my foot on the throttle to keep it ticking over, if Im driving and dip the clutch & release the throttle the revs just drop straight back down to 0, dont even hang around the 750-100rpm mark! when I take my foot off the clutch the engine fires up straight away without much resistance, I have replaced the TDC sensor, sprayed carb cleaner down the throttle body, tested each injector (when I have managed to get it to idle) replaced all the coils, I think the only thing left to do is change the Idle valve... (all these repairs werent just done for this issue, these are just things that have been changed recently!) Is there anything else I should check before changing this valve???
 

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i cant my one off !!! only way i can see to do it is disconnect it from manfold is this wise? i will get new gasket but i just get enough pressure on my screw driver ! (megane scenic 99)
 

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Not another one.......

Hi all..

I am experiencing the same problem (as well as others) with my Clio. Have already had my idle control fiddled with and this seems to have made no difference at all. :confused:

I am in the process of having my cylinder pressures and valves fiddled with, if I get any luck on this or if someone else finds a cure I will thank the god of spanners.:d
 

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Thanks for the pictures Lagdti but my Scenic 1.8 16v petrol (52 plate) doesn't appear to have this idle control valve.
Is it located elsewhere or is the idling controlled by the throttle body only ? ( or better still is there a little screw I can turn like there was on cars thirty years ago !!).

Sceniccrisis.
 

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SOLVED ..... Hey guys, I sorted out my Scenic 1.8 that kept cutting out at the lights with very low rev's.
After checking all the vacuum hoses and finding nothing I decided to remove the air unit, that black finger looking moulding that sits over the top of the engine and found that my air butterfly was choked up with carbon deposits. I got myself a can of carb cleaner for £4.95 and used it like they said - spray a little and then wipe off with a cloth - reassembled all the parts I took off (you'll need a 10mm socket, thats all) and now its running perfectly.
Contact me if you need a step-by-step guide, I'd be happy to share my experience. Alan
 

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Hi Alan,

Glad to hear it's fixed.

It might be an idea, if you can write a 'how-to' thread, and that way it'll be more visible to fellow members.

Thanks in advance,

Paul
 

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SOLVED ..... Hey guys, I sorted out my Scenic 1.8 that kept cutting out at the lights with very low rev's.
After checking all the vacuum hoses and finding nothing I decided to remove the air unit, that black finger looking moulding that sits over the top of the engine and found that my air butterfly was choked up with carbon deposits. I got myself a can of carb cleaner for £4.95 and used it like they said - spray a little and then wipe off with a cloth - reassembled all the parts I took off (you'll need a 10mm socket, thats all) and now its running perfectly.
Contact me if you need a step-by-step guide, I'd be happy to share my experience. Alan
So this dude seems to be gone - its not located same place on my grand scenic 05 - could anyone tell me where it is?
 

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For "air butterfly" read throttle body. Same as in my post to you, last night.
 

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Funny but my 1.4 16v Scenic has a very low idle, usually 450-500rpm but it's as smooth as silk. Maybe it's in the early stages of failing. I might have a look tomorrow if the weather holds out. I was surprised to see it so low but it's been like that since I bought it.:confused:
 

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I changed the airfilter today and noticed the housing that the airfilter fits into at the back of the engine is loose (airbox?).
Looking at Haynes there is a small diagram on page 4A.4. It is the big flat housing with the large aperture. It looks like there are top and bottom fixings on this. The driver's side is loose but the airfilter side is fixed.

Surely if this is loose the maf won't work correctly. Access is bad needing torch and mirror and a cold engine:eek: How does it bolt on?
 

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Presuming you car is a Mk1 phase2-

The main airbox is held with 2 long bolts.
One down each side of the throttle housing fitted vertically..
They have the Tx male heads so you need a socket for them. Socket size is E8 on mine.

There are a couple of spacer washers involved in the mounting so if the bolts are both fitted, happen a few of the spacers are missing.

It would be bettter to fix but isn't critical.

If you have a throttle cable on top of the engine connected to the throttle housing, you don't have a MAF sensor.
You have a MAP sensor fitted into the black finger style inlet manifold.

Are you sure it's doing those revs at idle.
Should be at 750rpm.
It should be on the mark that sits between the 5 and 10 if yours is marked that way.
 

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