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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2005 Grand Scenic which is generally great. One thing that I hate is the pathetic "beep" you get from the horn. I would love to replace it with something that can actually be heard but don't know where to start.

I had a look under the bonnet but can't see the horn anywhere :confused: Anyone know where it is and how to get to it? If I can get to it can I just buy a louder horn and do a straight swap?

Thanks for any help
 

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I too would like to know this, wifes 06 scenic's horn gives out a cheery hello type of beep, no good when someone has cut you up and you want them to jump out of there skins with a "F*** off you idiot" type of blast form your horn:moonie:
 

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I agree with you guys.

I am now on my 3rd Scenic and each one has had a pitiful horn.

The pre 03 shape scenic was easy. It was located front nearside engine compartment near the front.

Just got a New shape one and had a quick look tonight as to how to change the horn over. It's a bit of a project I think. The horn appears to be 'hidden' in the same place as the older models but is inaccessible due to the under engine guard which is pop riveted to the bottom of the front bumper.:crazy:

Not a quick job this one. :steam:

I am going to have a concerted attack at it this weekend - set aside a whole afternoon. It will need the front of the car jacking right up to enable access and quite a bit of messing about me thinks. :(

I will let you know how I get on.

Any tips or tricks from those in the know would be handy before the 12th May !
 

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Horn Replacement - Renault Scenic 03 Onward

Task – Horn Replacement / Upgrade – Renault Scenic 03 Onward
Tools – 10mm Socket, 13mm Spanner, Wire Cutters, Pliers, Jack, Axle Stands, Electric Drill.
Parts – Replacement Horn (or Upgrade), Auto-electrical wire in 2 Colours, Spade Connectors, 2 electrical “tap” connectors.
Time Allocation - 1 Hour

The horn is located directly behind the front Renault badge in a void between the radiator and the front grill of the car. It can just be seen if you look up through the grill. It is suspended from a fixing bolt directly under the flat section inside the bonnet and is held in place with a 13mm nut.

The easiest way to access the horn is from underneath the vehicle.

Firstly jack up the front of the car and place it on axle stands. The underside of the engine is protected by a thick plastic sump guard. The sump guard is in 2 pieces, a front and rear section. To access the horn you only need to remove the front most section. This front section is held in place by 3 x 10mm bolts but it is also pop riveted to the underside of the front bumper. To remove this front section you first need to locate and drill out the pop rivets. There are usually about 5 or 6 of these. Once the pop rivets are removed you can then remove the bolts and remove the front sump guard section.

You will now have access to the void and the horn. I used a Ring replacement twin horn kit from Halfords (£15). The Renault horn is connected by two wires, a black and brown and a grey and brown. Remove the wires from the horn, this will give you better access to tap off your wires. The connector has a wire circlip retaining mechanism which you need to push down to release the connector.

To mount the new horns I used the pieces which came with the horn kit and fabricated a connecting piece so that the two new horns could be connected directly to the same fixing as the old horn. Doing this I could leave the original horn in situ and use it as a fastening point for my new horns. If you remove the Renault horn completely you will not need to do this but you will need to find a suitable short 13mm nut and bolt. If you need to do this add another 15 mins to the allotted time.

I then assembled and wired the new horns on the workbench using both terminal connectors on each horn. I wired these in parallel and found that doing this meant the horns simply worked (without a relay) when connected. Once you have your new horns, mounting and wiring complete you can then use the old mounting point. With the horns in place use the tap connectors to piggy back your new horn wires into the wiring loom.

Replace the sump guard. You can either re pop rivet the sump guard back to the underside of the front bumper or, as I did, use small stainless steel self tappers.

Job done. :d :d
 

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super post, shame you didn't take pictures.....I still gave you rep point though lol
 

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I did! ;)

But these are the only ones that came out, my automatic digital camera did too much autofocusing and they didn't come out. :eek:



I think I will join the sadgeezers forum next :rofl: :rofl:
 

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I think we all must be sad, at least with the pathetic peep from our scenic horns
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Great - thanks Martsby! And well done.

As I suspected - a scary job for a techno dinosaur like me. I think I will just have to put up with the existing horn as I don't have axle stands and don't really fancy drilling off rivets etc. :(

Was hoping it was a simple case of open bonnet, disconnect and unscrew existing horn, attach new horn, reconnect wires and close bonnet. Should have known better given the abysmally small and difficult access into the engine bay :steam:

Many thanks anyway.
 

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Do the wires for the horn run inside the engine bay? As I've just today picked up a Scenic 3 and noticed how pathetic the horn is, so I immeadiatley thought I'd fit the twin air horns that are resting in my garage. If the wires run in an accessible place inside the engine bay it should possibly be an easier job than previously mentioned. Will take a look at weekend.
 

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i have just fit a pair of FIAMM horns to my scenic,
i have left the original horn were it is and scotch locked extra wires into the loom and fed them up to either side of the head lamps ,then using the brackets provided with the horns i have used the headlight bolt to secure the horns so that they face each other , their is plenty room and it does not obscure the closing of the bonnet/hood. once the wires were connected up i thought about the extra load on the existing relay using three horns so (annoyingly)tested them in intervals of 10-20 and 30 seconds, the relay and fuse don't seem to be getting hot at all, so im a happy bunny.
the horns are absolutely stupidly frightning , since i have fit them i have been swar at and had very rude hand jestures directed at me:d .
one last thing? the original horn is a CLAXON they are a very good horn , but you only get the high tone , you could always just invest in a low tone claxon add it to the other and get very good results.
 
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