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Hi guys,

Started to change the rear pads however i had to stop when i couldn't get the caliper off the hub. Do i need to take this off? It looks like it needs an 18mm spanner to get the bolt loose am i right?

Really losing the will to do it myself haha.:(
 

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As far as I remember it....
Remove 7mm Allen bolt on the inside top of the calliper inside the rubber cover.... pivot the calliper away from the disk on the bottom bolt (may need some pushing if you have a lip on your disk)... remove pads and spring... retract piston by rotating clockwise whist pushing in, using thin nose pliers or brake retracting tool so that new pads will fit in (removing top off brake master cylinder is useful and I personally loosen bleed nipple and re-bleed after. Few threads on here). Don' just push the piston straight in though!!!.... New pads in with a smear od copper grease to stop squeeling.... swing back into place and re-fit allen bolt.

Think that's about it, though others may have contibute/correct etc. :d
 

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Hhmmm yes. Good point... I didn't explain the copper grease bit :eek: Don't get it on the pads or disks whatever you do!! But I usually smear a little on the back of the pads, where they come in contact with the piston as I was told once that it helps prevent brake squeal
 

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and don't forget to gently tap the handbrake levers back to their rest position before you start. The springs are not strong enough to overcome the crud build up that happens, this will make the pad removal easier, and also give good HB adjustment.
 

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It is recommended to release the handbrake adjustment and unhook the cables off the caliper. Don't attempt to hammer the levers on the caliper such action can cause internal damage - use a rigng spanner over the end of the lever to gently return it to its position but only if necessary. Theoreticaly the lever should be able to rest itself once the cable is released.

Whenever I see anyone working at brakes using a hammer I start to worry.:)
 
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