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Discussion Starter #1
Sorry if this is a bit repetitive but the blowers my 98 RTI with climate control has stopped working.
There was no evidence of strange noises etc but while driving along I got an 'electrical' burning smell. When I pulled onto the hard shoulder some smoke came out of the vents and the blower has not worked since (last week). Is there more than 1 fan and are they easy to replace.
All of the lights show the fan/a/c on but I've obviously turned it off to prevent further damage or fire.
 

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Hello and welcome to the forums scubapro1957.

Oh the joys eh:rolleyes: . I am having the same problem. You may be lucky and find that it is simply that your heater blower motor has just seized, judging by the smell and smoke, which means a quick replacement from a scrapyard may fix your problem. However, you may want to have a look at this thread which I started, albeit half way through the problem;

http://www.renaultforums.co.uk/electronics/21249-fuse.html

My problem is that I have no power going to my motor which is an absolute nightmare to pinpoint the problem:yawn: . It's been driving me mad for the last four weeks:steam:

Good luck with yours.

EDIT: If it is a case of replacing the heater blower motor you will find in nestled under the glove box behind some protective sheeting. There are four torx screws which need to be removed, one of which is a real pain, the blower motor can then simply be pulled out (having disconnected the wires that is). I mentioned the scrappy above as I believe Renault will charge you in excess of £150 for a new one!
 

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Hi Scuba - as a matter of interest when was the pollen filter last changed. If the pollen filter is blocked it wil prevent a good supply of cool air getiting to the heater motor and cause it to overheat.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The pollen filter was changed about 7 or 8 months ago.

I've managed to get a replacement blower from my local friendly scrappy. He's charged me £25 because I did him a bit of a favour a couple of years ago. Having seen the price for a new one I'll settle for that.
I've not had the chance to collect it or even remove my old one yet. So if this doesn't work stand by for incoming questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Since this incident with the blower I have twice had the voice synth tell me "warning side lights faulty" when they aren't accompanied by the service light. If I switch off the ignition and start again it all seems ok. ... apart from the fact the blower still doesn't work.
Do you think this is just a co-incidence?
 

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How bizarre, that's exactly what my synth told me, however, one of my bulbs had blown:) and let me tell you, trying to change a bulb on the drivers side was near impossible what with the power steering reservoir in the way!

Have you actually done a visual checkon the lights:confused:
 

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Hi Scuba - without sounding cheeky I take it you have checked all lights are working correctly - if you have the heater blower disconnected the system may be picking up the fault but describing it as something different. Computers ain't as smart as they would like us to believe:d
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yep! Lights are working fine. The blower isn't disconnected yet so I'm hoping the computer just dropped the ball or there's a terrible feeling there will be melted wires hidden in the dash
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Here comes the incoming!!
No the repacement doesn't fire up either. So being as we don't have 4 speed blowers what should I be looking for next? When I turn on the ingnition then switch on heating/cooling I can hear the various parts and flaps moving to change position for the different locations but no idea where to start to look for the problem. A relay perhaps? Heeeeelllllllp
 

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Oh dear, oh dear

Sounds like you may have a similar problem to mine then:crazy: , unless of course the motor you bought had already broken. Did you test it before hand?

If the motor was tested and working have you actually got power going to the motor? Check the fuse, it's the same fuse as the radio uses. If the fuse is alright you may have a break in a circuit somewhere and unless you're any good at electrics I wouldn't even bother going there. Trust me, that's the problem I've been having.

I am now at the stage, with mine, that I am just gonna save a few pennies (quite a few) and take the car to my local auto electrician.

Keep up dated in this thread as I will do the same, we may eventually help one another out, maybe!;)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The motors a good one and as the radio and cigar lighters work would suggest ergo the fuse for the blower is ok.
As I can hear movement in the various flaps etc for the heating/ac sections I'm at a bit of a loss.
Are the relays by the battery anything to do with it? Do you know? I don't even know how to take the clove box out to check anything.
 

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The flap that you can hear moving would be the one that controls whether the air comes from outside the car or is recirculated. If you look up the whole that the blower motor comes of you will see the flap moving when you turn the dash unit on.

Renault advised me that there was not a relay for the motor which I thought a bit confusing but I would hope that they would know what they are talking about.

The only relay that I thought could have anything to do with my motor was located behind the glove box, however, I replaced this and it didn't change anything.

Tell ya what, I shall go and remove my glovebox again and post some piccies for you when I'm done.
 

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The first picture below shows where the six torx screws are located in the glove box (red dots). The three at the bottom can be accessed by pulling up the 'carpet' inlay which is held down with sticky stuff (nice technical term that). The central top screw is easy to see whereby the two either side are located up in two holes, they're a bit of a bugger to get to and even harder to return afterwards (I haven't bothered putting them back as the glove box is held in place fine with the top central screww and three lower ones). The wires for the glovebox light can easily be detatched once the glovebox has been removed.

The second picture shows behind the glovebox. I have colour coded the wires and where they run from and too as below but please bear in mind I am not electrician;

Pink - Two thick red wires which run from right to left and into the relay

Green - Two thick red wires which run to the blower motor.

Blue - Two thick black wires, which run from the blower motor to the top right of picture, also thin orange, red, brown and black wires which run to the back of the control unit mounted in the dash.

Yellow square block at left of picture is relay which after Renault telling me there is none is quite apparent that there is!

Now as I stated, I am no electricain and have no real idea as to what wire does what but am assuming that the thick red wires are the power in as they go to the relay. I have been reliably informed that the two thick black wires are the earth wires, which would make sense. As to the four thin wires, I have no idea what they do?

Hope this helps you somewhat:)

I have started a thread in the electrical forum regarding the relays under the hood as there may be a better response there. I had, by the way never even noticed these relays before.

http://www.renaultforums.co.uk/electronics/21958-what-these-relays.html#post181985
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Scatz. I got to thinking about this problem and when my heater packed up there was an electrical burning smell that could have been anywhere in the dash but the smoke came out of the vents which makes me think that the fault must be within the heating pipework/ducts.
Did you notice any electrics inside the ductwork while you had it apart? The only thing I have found so far is what looks like a temperature sensor.
 

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Looking through the wiring diagram for the 2001 Laguna II ( I realise it ain't the same as yours) I notice there is a evaporator sensor and a beige colured cable going to an air-conditioning cut-off relay (it's location is not shown). The yellow relay shown in the picture has two red cables and I assume they are both power (one in and one out) and the relay acts as a switch - have you tried by-passing the yellow relay and what colour of cables activate it. Without making things more complicated could the yellow box be a thermal cut-out which has gone duff.:)

P.S. I'm not trying to complicate matters just giving a few ideas.
 

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Scatz. I got to thinking about this problem and when my heater packed up there was an electrical burning smell that could have been anywhere in the dash but the smoke came out of the vents which makes me think that the fault must be within the heating pipework/ducts.
Did you notice any electrics inside the ductwork while you had it apart? The only thing I have found so far is what looks like a temperature sensor.
Hi scuba, I didn't actually take the complete ducting apart. If your original blower motor had seized or something on the circuit board had burnt then the smoke would have come out of the vents as the blower motor is airtight when fixed to the ducting, therefore, the only way the smoke could have gone is out of the vents.

As I think I stated before, I have given up on looking for the answer myself as I have pretty much tried everything. If and when I find a resolution, which may be a few weeks yet, I will, of course, post it here. By all means, if you need to know anything else you think I may be able to help with then post here also and likewise if you find a resolution let me know.

Regards

PS: It's really infuriating isn't it. This is the problem with owning a high spec MKI Phase II Laguna, there are not that many about for many people to be able to pin point problems easily.:(
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I just took the relay off a few minutes ago and if nothing else I must say it felt quite warm. I don't have a replacement but am reluctant to try to bypass or short it across.
What I did find is that with a meter across I had an ohms loop on most every wire at the motor. That's confused me even more now.
I really loved this car.... Until last week.
 

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Looking through the wiring diagram for the 2001 Laguna II ( I realise it ain't the same as yours) I notice there is a evaporator sensor and a beige colured cable going to an air-conditioning cut-off relay (it's location is not shown). The yellow relay shown in the picture has two red cables and I assume they are both power (one in and one out) and the relay acts as a switch - have you tried by-passing the yellow relay and what colour of cables activate it. Without making things more complicated could the yellow box be a thermal cut-out which has gone duff.:)

P.S. I'm not trying to complicate matters just giving a few ideas.
Thanks mad.

That's something I hadn't thought of doing [bypassing the relay]. However, in my car I had purchased a new relay which didn't resolve the problem so probably will not work but it may be worth a try for 'scuba'.

To add, there are two reds going in and two going out of the relay. I assume they allow for different currents to be directed to the blower motor regarding fan speeds?:)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ohms loop is an high resistance short. Seems a bit strange that although I'm showing no voltage at the plug the relay is warm which really makes me think it must be getting to there.
What confuses me then is that if it was a relay problem then why did the smoke/smell come out of the vents which are to all intents sealed apart from the "proper" exit points.
I feel a very expensive trip to an auto electrician coming on.
 
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