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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
No need for programming. That is plug'n'play system.

Coils look new but that means nothing. If one or more are broken, they will leak ignition charge outside, off the spark plug and may cause backfire. That also depends on the condition of spark plugs, too. Bad plugs present too much resistance and force the charge elsewhere.

Gunk on them is some water/rust residue and burnt oil. There are 4 gaskets-rigs securing oil from entering into the coil holes.
After such a long time, new spark plugs are must.
I replaced the spark plugs
No need for programming. That is plug'n'play system.

Coils look new but that means nothing. If one or more are broken, they will leak ignition charge outside, off the spark plug and may cause backfire. That also depends on the condition of spark plugs, too. Bad plugs present too much resistance and force the charge elsewhere.

Gunk on them is some water/rust residue and burnt oil. There are 4 gaskets-rigs securing oil from entering into the coil holes.
After such a long time, new spark plugs are must.
Thanks for reply.
please see attached pic. the coil in the middle is ok but the ones on either side have been damaged. If you look at the middle part the plastic has broken off. the one in the middle, when you sink it into cylinder it seal alot better at the top were the coil come out of the top of the cylinder head. the other 2 have a gap around them. Will this make a difference.
Then in pic 2 the new spark and the old. I have replace them all with new plugs when I got back fire. The old plugs is BKR6EZ and new BKR6E. Will this make a difference the Z. k
 

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Old plug looks good, not worn.

For coils, missing plastic piece makes no difference. It does not effect integrity and isolation of the coil. If the coil is broken throug with electricity, you will not see it and you can not test it. For that, you would need a special tester that can generate 15 000 volts and even then you can not be sure.

Every coil has a rubber isolation ring but that's only for dust. Your middle coil has it, others don't.

Still the same.
Coils are leaking electric charge or worn actuator for intake camshaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·

  1. Old plug looks good, not worn.

    For coils, missing plastic piece makes no difference. It does not effect integrity and isolation of the coil. If the coil is broken throug with electricity, you will not see it and you can not test it. For that, you would need a special tester that can generate 15 000 volts and even then you can not be sure.

    Every coil has a rubber isolation ring but that's only for dust. Your middle coil has it, others don't.

    Still the same.
    Coils are leaking electric charge or worn actuator for intake camshaft.
    How do I know if Actuator is damaged. please see attached. The side arm is rusty. does it earth through this arm. See pic 2
 

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Worn actuator makes engine clicking on idle and less responsive on throttle, less power in low revs. It is to be renewed when you install new cambelt.

Side arm of what? I haven't seen that piece before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Worn actuator makes engine clicking on idle and less responsive on throttle, less power in low revs. It is to be renewed when you install new cambelt.

Side arm of what? I haven't seen that piece before.
It's the piece conected to the actuator that is tied down on the same built as the number 4 coil
 

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Then it's an older version of camshaft sensor?
Rust from outside is irrelevant.
If that would be broken, engine would not start at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Then it's an older version of camshaft sensor?
Rust from outside is irrelevant.
If that would be broken, engine would not start at all.
Is this not for the Dephaser pulley. This is a 2.0 lt motor. I do not think it's the Camshaft sensor. This motor does not have a Camshaft sensor. like the 1.6. Or at least I can not find one. Is it not the Dephaser solinod?
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 · (Edited)
Hi. I am stuck on this non start.

I Took the cam belt off again and done the Timing again. and tested it a few time and Mark's lined up.

I have Done a scan today and Came up with the same codes.
They are as Follows
DF083 - Dowstream Oxygen Sensor
CC.1 - Short- circuit to + 12V
CC.2 - Short - circuit to earth
CO - Open Ciruit

DF455 - Low Fuel Level Information
I put in 5L of fuel awhile ago
1 DEF - Open circuit or short circuit

DF001 - Water Temperature sensor. The Plug needs to be fitted. Came out
DF007 - Fuel sender Circuit
CC.O - Short circuit to earth
CO. - Open circuit
If Open Circuit Measure resistance between tracks 4 and 2 of the fuel sender. ( Is this the fuel pump. Fuel is pumping to the fuel rail.)
What is track 4 and 2 ?

I tried the Diagnostic tol communication it has vin . Engine type . Ignition type is high lighted in yellow with drop down arrow. But nothing to choose from in both frames.
I need to fill in but does nothing.
I wanted to do a Ignition test when cranking .

When I connect battery no red light. When I put carbon slot. no red light. when I turn ignition on no red light on dash.
When I crank motor no red light. It does not come on at all.
The previous owner had some kind of switch connected to wires under steering stork and earth on body. Wire went to back on One of wires to fuel pump. They were cut into and wire attached. I have taken all these wires off. And tapped wires up.

I also have the problem with Central locking.
So not red light and no locking with card key

Any help
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Hi. I am stuck on this non start.

I Took the cam belt off again and done the Timing again. and tested it a few time and Mark's lined up.

I have Done a scan today and Came up with the same codes.
They are as Follows
DF083 - Dowstream Oxygen Sensor
CC.1 - Short- circuit to + 12V
CC.2 - Short - circuit to earth
CO - Open Ciruit

DF455 - Low Fuel Level Information
I put in 5L of fuel awhile ago
1 DEF - Open circuit or short circuit

DF001 - Water Temperature sensor. The Plug needs to be fitted. Came out
DF007 - Fuel sender Circuit
CC.O - Short circuit to earth
CO. - Open circuit
If Open Circuit Measure resistance between tracks 4 and 2 of the fuel sender. ( Is this the fuel pump. Fuel is pumping to the fuel rail.)
What is track 4 and 2 ?

I tried the Diagnostic tol communication it has vin . Engine type . Ignition type is high lighted in yellow with drop down arrow. But nothing to choose from in both frames.
I need to fill in but does nothing.
I wanted to do a Ignition test when cranking .

When I connect battery no red light. When I put carbon slot. no red light. when I turn ignition on no red light on dash.
When I crank motor no red light. It does not come on at all.
The previous owner had some kind of switch connected to wires under steering stork and earth on body. Wire went to back on One of wires to fuel pump. They were cut into and wire attached. I have taken all these wires off. And tapped wires up.

Any help
Hi Can anyone help. Please
 

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wont stop the car from running
Either windows or head light adjustment

Check your brake lights are working Ian
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Hi. I am stuck on this non start.

I Took the cam belt off again and done the Timing again. and tested it a few time and Mark's lined up.

I have Done a scan today and Came up with the same codes.
They are as Follows
DF083 - Dowstream Oxygen Sensor
CC.1 - Short- circuit to + 12V
CC.2 - Short - circuit to earth
CO - Open Ciruit

DF455 - Low Fuel Level Information
I put in 5L of fuel awhile ago
1 DEF - Open circuit or short circuit

DF001 - Water Temperature sensor. The Plug needs to be fitted. Came out
DF007 - Fuel sender Circuit
CC.O - Short circuit to earth
CO. - Open circuit
If Open Circuit Measure resistance between tracks 4 and 2 of the fuel sender. ( Is this the fuel pump. Fuel is pumping to the fuel rail.)
What is track 4 and 2 ?

I tried the Diagnostic tol communication it has vin . Engine type . Ignition type is high lighted in yellow with drop down arrow. But nothing to choose from in both frames.
I need to fill in but does nothing.
I wanted to do a Ignition test when cranking .

When I connect battery no red light. When I put carbon slot. no red light. when I turn ignition on no red light on dash.
When I crank motor no red light. It does not come on at all.
The previous owner had some kind of switch connected to wires under steering stork and earth on body. Wire went to back on One of wires to fuel pump. They were cut into and wire attached. I have taken all these wires off. And tapped wires up.

I also have the problem with Central locking.
So not red light and no locking with card key

Any help
Can anyone help me with this please
 

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You are jumping all over the place here
You have put a picture on about a Relay,
AM lost on this Thread/Post as no idea where, or what as now been tested and KNOWN not to be at fault
 

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You do realise how complicated this is?
You are describing what you see but it's not easy to create a picture of that in my head. Could be something simple. Also, there are damaged wires and burned isolation. So if obvious problems did not help, I'm out of ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Hi. I am stuck on this non start.

I Took the cam belt off again and done the Timing again. and tested it a few time and Mark's lined up.

I have Done a scan today and Came up with the same codes.
They are as Follows
DF083 - Dowstream Oxygen Sensor
CC.1 - Short- circuit to + 12V
CC.2 - Short - circuit to earth
CO - Open Ciruit

DF455 - Low Fuel Level Information
I put in 5L of fuel awhile ago
1 DEF - Open circuit or short circuit

DF001 - Water Temperature sensor. The Plug needs to be fitted. Came out
DF007 - Fuel sender Circuit
CC.O - Short circuit to earth
CO. - Open circuit
If Open Circuit Measure resistance between tracks 4 and 2 of the fuel sender. ( Is this the fuel pump. Fuel is pumping to the fuel rail.)
What is track 4 and 2 ?

I tried the Diagnostic tol communication it has vin . Engine type . Ignition type is high lighted in yellow with drop down arrow. But nothing to choose from in both frames.
I need to fill in but does nothing.
I wanted to do a Ignition test when cranking .

When I connect battery no red light. When I put carbon slot. no red light. when I turn ignition on no red light on dash.
When I crank motor no red light. It does not come on at all.
The previous owner had some kind of switch connected to wires under steering stork and earth on body. Wire went to back on One of wires to fuel pump. They were cut into and wire attached. I have taken all these wires off. And tapped wires up.

I also have the problem with Central locking.
So not red light and no locking with card key

Any help
Ok Stuart. Sorry about that.

Can you help me with the above. Forget the relay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 · (Edited)
Hi. I am stuck on this non start.

I Took the cam belt off again and done the Timing again. and tested it a few time and Mark's lined up.

I have Done a scan today and Came up with the same codes.
They are as Follows
DF083 - Dowstream Oxygen Sensor
CC.1 - Short- circuit to + 12V
CC.2 - Short - circuit to earth
CO - Open Ciruit

DF455 - Low Fuel Level Information
I put in 5L of fuel awhile ago
1 DEF - Open circuit or short circuit

DF001 - Water Temperature sensor. The Plug needs to be fitted. Came out
DF007 - Fuel sender Circuit
CC.O - Short circuit to earth
CO. - Open circuit
If Open Circuit Measure resistance between tracks 4 and 2 of the fuel sender. ( Is this the fuel pump. Fuel is pumping to the fuel rail.)
What is track 4 and 2 ?

On the Renualt can clip.
I tried the Diagnostic tol communication it has vin . Engine type . Ignition type is high lighted in yellow with drop down arrow. But nothing to choose from in both frames.
I need to fill in but does nothing.
I wanted to do a Ignition test when cranking .

When I connect battery no red light. When I put card in slot. no red light. when I turn ignition on,no red light on dash.
When I crank motor no red light. It does not come on at all.
The previous owner had some kind of switch connected to wires under steering stork and earth on body. One of wires to fuel pump. They were cut into and wire attached. I have taken all these wires off. And tapped wires up.

I also have the problem with Central locking.
So not red light and no locking with card key

Any help
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 · (Edited)
Hi All

Please see above thread, I am not getting anyone feed back, Are we all stunned.

So I done some more test today. I think I may have found the Answer.

To me a Car needs the Following

1. Strong Battery
2. Fuel
3. Air
4. Spark
5. Compression

1. Battery has been Charged 12.65v

2 Fuel I have tested fuel to fuel rail by taking off fuel line off fuel rail.I had lots of pressure. Done that awhile ago. But I did not know if message was getting to Injectors, So I took the Fuel Rail off today, and I started the Motor. Fuel on all 4 injectors. All at the same time. All sprayed together. Not sure if they meant to all at once.

3. Air. -I was not sure If Throttle body was allowing air in, So Tried starting with out Air intake manifold, Nothing
no Start
4. I checked each of the 4 plugs to see if there was spark. And yes there was on all 4

5. Today I tested for compression. Nothing on all 4, needle did not move. I thought maybe its the pressure gauge, so I tested on another car and I got a reading of 700 on first turn.

So now I need to find out why there is no pressure.
I turned the motor over by hand and Cylinder 4 moved up and down, that's how I tested for TDC when setting Cambelt Timing

So could It be the head gasket or will it be piston rings
No Mayonnaise on oil cap and Oil on dipstick is dark

I read on the internet. That if there is no compression on all 4 cylinders it because there is no oil lubricating the cylinder walls. This is caused by over flooding the cylinder with fuel. This brakes down the oil around the cylinders. So there would be no compression.
When I took the fuel rail off all 4 injectors fired at the same time. should it not fire in different order.
Or could it be that the car was sitting for long and oil drained off cylinder walls ?


Can anyone help Please
 

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All 4 injectors fire at the same time only on cranking.
Later, when ECU pics up position of the pistons and camshaft, injection will be done by each cylinder.

I really, really doubt that oil can make up for lost compression.
No matter how drained it is and no matter how long engine has not been started, that is no reason for no compression.

Shot in the dark.
If your camshafts are turned for 180 degrees, engine would behave like you described.
Everything is OK and in place but the spark fires at the end of exhaust stroke instead of compression stroke. Even then, some combustion should take place, even in the exhaust pipe. But that is the only thing I can think of. Also would explain lack of compression. Of course there is no compression if the valves are open.
How hard is it for starter to turn the engine? Normal load? Or is it turning the engine lightly and fast?
 
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