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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Does the engine fan not work at all
Thermostat is fully open at 98 C
would have thought fan kicks in about 104C

Connect diagnostic
Run engine keeping an eye on Engine Temp..

see if any clues there
Hi Stuarr.
Thanks so much for all your help. I got the fan to work. Changes Relay. Flushed out the small water pipes cleaned earth wire. So was one of the above.

I have another problem now. It does not idle. Revs up and down. First start it revs up to 3000rpm and stays there. After a few revving to above 3000 with foot on then comes down . Then it sits and bounces from 800 to 2000 rpm. And when you rev motor it smokes. White smoke
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Are you using water Ian

Head has held, and not blowing/seeping water into a cylinder
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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You need to check if you are using water Ian, if yes, where is the water going
Diesel, we could say air in the fuel, Petrol white smoke, its either burning a lot of oil, or its steam, which is just very hot water
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
You need to check if you are using water Ian, if yes, where is the water going
Diesel, we could say air in the fuel, Petrol white smoke, its either burning a lot of oil, or its steam, which is just very hot water
Would this cause the idling to go from 800 to 2000 rpm up and down. And cause car to rev high when first starting up ? Oil is not milky on oil cap or dip stick
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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NEVER just believe oil going milky is the only cause for a Head gasket issue

You could have a seep from the oil feed to the head going into a cylinder
Or water from a water gallery seeping under the gasket straight into a cylinder

Try and work out, is it steam, or Oil being burnt
Not burning oil, ( No oil lose measured from dipstick ) Not oil issue.
No water being lost, not Water,
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
NEVER just believe oil going milky is the only cause for a Head gasket issue

You could have a seep from the oil feed to the head going into a cylinder
Or water from a water gallery seeping under the gasket straight into a cylinder

Try and work out, is it steam, or Oil being burnt
Not burning oil, ( No oil lose measured from dipstick ) Not oil issue.
No water being lost, not Water,
OK Will check tomorrow ?
How good are the chemical gasket sealers that on the shelves at part stores. Do you recommend this as gasket has been changed ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
Hi Good evening.
OK I check this morning. Car still hard to start. When started it runs OK. Idle above 1000 rpm. Once it warms up it starts to do the reving high and low. I checked water no change. I checked oil also no difference. I reved not as much smoke as yesterday. I put air con on and the revs carmed down and did not rise and lower. After a while once warm the squeaking sound starts like a alternator belt slipping. But it not I change it new one. Could it be the Air con pulley.
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
Hi Good evening all.
OK So I found why the car does not ctart so easy, I had the Idle and the VVT Valve connector plugs reversed. Same looking plug all most next to each other.
Now the motor sounds a lot better, until it warms up. Then I have the revs climbing to 4000 rpm and I have to rev it higher before it comes down again. It then sits and jumps up and down when idling.
It also starts to squeak like the Alternator belt is slipping, but belt has been replaced.
I took the Alternator belt off to day when the engine was hot and squeaking, to see if it was the Alternator or air con pulley, But it still squeaked well idling. So now I am wondering if maybe I did not tighten the Crank shaft pulley enough Would this cause the idling problem ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
Checked. Timing still perfect. Checked tightness of Crank Pulley. It was tight. Not sure what else can be causing the squeaking (Alternator fan belt slipping sound) Not the Air con and Alternator. As it made a noise even after belt taken off. So Still have Noise and idle issues. Any ideas. Anyone
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
Hi all. Has this stunned everyone. Is it maybe a vacuum leak. air leak ? I looked but Can not seem to see anything. If I rev quick a short one. It sounds like a hole in exghust. From the Exhaust manifold side. Could it be the gasket. I cleaned as best I could and replaced Gasket. But did not use gasket sealer???
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Lost no water, lost no oil, sure valves gaps are ok and not to small

Got any brake cleaner have you sprayed this over all the inlet manifold to make sure no leaks
Have you taken spark plugs out to see what colour they are.
Got a leak on exhaust manifold to head and lambda cannot work out if not enough fuel going in, so is injecting more
Most erratic idle issues are air being drawn in,
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
Lost no water, lost no oil, sure valves gaps are ok and not to small

Got any brake cleaner have you sprayed this over all the inlet manifold to make sure no leaks
Have you taken spark plugs out to see what colour they are.
Got a leak on exhaust manifold to head and lambda cannot work out if not enough fuel going in, so is injecting more
Most erratic idle issues are air being drawn in,
z
Lost no water, lost no oil, sure valves gaps are ok and not to small

Got any brake cleaner have you sprayed this over all the inlet manifold to make sure no leaks
Have you taken spark plugs out to see what colour they are.
Got a leak on exhaust manifold to head and lambda cannot work out if not enough fuel going in, so is injecting more
Most erratic idle issues are air being drawn in,
Hi Stuart
Thanks so much for always replying. Seems like no one else on this group.
I will check and try your suggestions tomorrow and come back to you. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
Hi Stuart.
I have been trying to get your help, not sure if you saw my post om Scenic 3 Key fob not opening car
I have a Renault Grand Scenic 3 1.9 2012. Its been running well,

I took family to the Beach yesterday afternoon and I lock the Car double locked( dead locked)Like I always do, Later on when we wanted to leave. The Keyless entry would not work. (Key Fob battery needed to be replace) I tried to open with the button on Card key Fob but nothing. I then opened the car with the emergence key. Climb over to the Drivers side put the card key in. Nothing it would not start. Tried to open drivers door nothing, windows nothing. Inside central locking did not work.
I went and got a new Fob battery tried that nothing tried a second new battery nothing. Had to have car towed home last night R1500. Got home at 11.30pm. What a way to spend my birthday.

I took the Car battery out last night. Charged it last night and tried again this morning. Nothing just the alarm screaming, can not turn it off.
I open the Card key Fob and the wire coil that has 3 connection was completely loos. I had then re soldered.
Taped it up. Not glued yet encase I have to open again.
Tried again can not get alarm to switch off or doors to open. Inside central locking also not working.
Pressed the button on Fob to switch lights on nothing.
I Can lock the car from the little black knob on drivers handle but will not open with hand by sensor
I have read through the forum and People saying Car battery. My battery was charged last night, 12.38v. I tried a second battery Charged 12.49v Still nothing alarm goes off will not switch off.
I can go to car with Key fob in my pocket and I can hear if I press the small button on drivers door. I can hear the doors trying to lock. but no indicator flashing to say its locked. I can put My hand over Drivers sensor or passenger handle sensor and pull handle nothing. Will not unlock.

If I try and scan with Delph. It will not connect because I can not get ignition on

I battle to get the Delph to get a scan from the car, but tonight I managed to. These are the faults

DTC 921114 UPC Protection and Switching Unit supply circuit
  • Open circuit or short circuit to earth
DTCC11100 – Multiplex PSU signal absent
  • Sub- type without information
DTCC13100 – PAS multiplexed emission absent
  • Sub-type without information
  • Permanent
DTC923514 – UPC Protection and switching unit supply circuit
  • Open circuit or short circuit to earth
DTC92114 – UPC Protection and switching unit supply circuit
  • Open circuit or short circuit to earth
DTC926681 – Battery current sensor
  • Invalid series data received
  • Permanent
 

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Discussion Starter · #99 · (Edited)
z

Hi Stuart
Thanks so much for always replying. Seems like no one else on this group.
I will check and try your suggestions tomorrow and come back to you. Thanks
Hi Stuart.
I have been thinking on the Scenic 2.0lt that is not idling properly.
Could a damaged, INTAKE MANIFOLD PRESSURE censer cause the idling to change rev high when starting and then idle up and down when engine is warmer.
This sensor does not look all that good, a bit damaged.
This is the one at the front of the Motor. By the Inlet Manifold just above the injectors on the Big air intake Manifold
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Ian without looking at a picture of your engine, not a clue.
But if this is damaged then all can have all sorts of issues
whats damaged, the part that fits in, or just the connection .
Wont Delphi show anything for you, still not got Clip to work..
Would have messed until I got clip to work myself
 
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