[pgtips123]

Hi,

I have been reading through several threads on what seems a common problem on the scenics of the heater resistor needing replacement.
My problem is heater blows only on #4. Renault Grand Scenic 2007 2.0l auto.

I watched a few videos and decided, after checking the 40A fuse was ok to buy a new resistor to crimp on and do the job today.

but variations are the problem. Its not quite what I hoped, in one the video the guy removed the dash surround and LED panel and hey presto there was the resistor pack which he duly replaced.

Renault Scenic II - Access the resistor pack in 5 mins.

I don't know if this has been posted before. I just managed to access the resistor pack in 5 mins, maybe less. Haynes reckon the dash top fascia needs to be removed, massive job. I avoided this. I simply removed the two digital dash surrounds, then to the right of the digital display is quite a...

www.renaultforums.co.uk

In another video (I found today) someone remove the gear lever housing and screws in the glovebox in order to access it . His resistor pack is more than a £3 resistor to crimp on as well. BUT his was LHD, they (videos) all are. Mine is RHD.
So first Q, is the resistor housing on LH or RHS.

My surround is out, LED panel removed but no resistor pack was there so that's fair enough, wrong video, £3 nothing too painful but before I order the Pn: 7701207718 I would like to ask am I going down the right path or do I need to look harder for the resistor pack wioth the facia panel out ?. I can dismantle tomorrow and wait few days for replacement to arrive if that is actually my problem.

many thanks for any guidance
Kevin

 

[pgtips123]

Progress.

Ours is a 2007 so the resistor doesn't have the heatsink like some.

You do have to remove LED panel and surround but its very easy.

So LHD or RHD looks like its in the same place behind about the middle of the panel (if it was still in place) and is accessible by hand. This video explains where quite well. At about 1:10 and 3:13 tells you where it is

heater blower resistor

I was looking for bright green plugs (with mirrors and stuff) but can also be black !. Then I remembered I had a probe camera so I took a picture of it in situ so you know what you are fumbling about for behind the LED panel area..

The screw on the left is a Torx, that is the one you have to undo. You can see the cable plug on the right to pull out. Disconnect the plug then remove the housing that the red and black wires are attached to. This little unit/housing that all comes out is the faulty bit.

Now those 2 red and black wires aren't long and there is most likely a plug on the end of them but I don't know where so I plan to cut them and join using a pref yellow but maybe blue connector.
In order to get my hands on the wire I needed to drop the steering wheel plastic but that was not too bad a job either.

RHD do not do the glovebox (I did because I didn't know where it might be but not required). I found dropping the plastic under the steering wheel (Ours is a UK RHD auto) made life a bit easier as the red and black cables were not very long.

I did solder on a new resistor but didn't work so searched and found I can buy one on eBay for under £10 posted so seriously don't bother soldering, waste of time for a tenner.

Hopefully in 2 days it will turn up and all will be ok.

 

[MFM]

Thank you so much for this info @pgtips123.

I tried to find the resistor in my 2007 Grand Scenic 2.0L for a couple of days without any luck, because I was trying to to find the type with the bright green sockets! It is extremely difficult when you're working one handed in a tight space and working blind.
Your photo on this thread was invaluable, because I'd already found the black one like yours, but thought it was something else and almost gave up.

So today, I've managed to get the resistor out, and have ordered the replacement on eBay for £11, hopefully get it in 2 to 3 days.

I'm attaching photos of what I've done today, with more to follow once the new resistor arrives and I get it fitted. Fingers crossed.

Top and Bottom trim taken out. To the far right of the instrument panel is where your hand goes in, then about 3 to 4 inches in to the left, behind the instrument panel.

This gives a better view of where your right hand goes in behind the instrument panel. The yellow cables you can see are part of the connector going into the socket on the resistor, so you can see it's not too far in. While you are peering in to get your bearings (no pun intended), it's handy to have a small flashlight on the rusty metal to the far right.

So, this is the black type of resistor @pgtips123 was referring to. At this stage the Torks screw was already out (actually it was missing), so had obviously been worked on before.

Cable connector taken out

To the top left you will see a black plastic retension clip that needs to be pulled back with a finger or two to release the resistor pack. I'm left handed, so I struggled with that.

This is the resistor, you can see hopefully what bad shape it's in. With the red and black cables attached, I managed to bring it through onto the dashboard.

This is the connector end on the dashboard.

This is the housing for the resistor after taking out the resistor. Sorry for the bad photo quality.

Hopefully, next week I'll get the new resiistor installed, with more photos posted here.
Thanks again to @pgtips123

 

[MFM]

Sorry for misspelling Torx, my brain is tired!