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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, I am new to the forum and have found alot of good info in the past when looking about. Can anyone tell me the best way to lock the camshaft pullys on my renault scenic 2.0 petrol 16v as I believe these have to come off to get rocker cover / head off??? as the belt broke on my wife the other day...new belt was fitted by renault main dealer just under 4 years ago and only done 28 thou...:mad::mad: many thanks..
 

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David,
Is there another that you know or do i defo need that tool?? and am i right in saying that the pullys need to come off before rocker cover will come off...thanks for you help so far mate..

tone..
 

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Hi Tone,

Removing the pulleys first is certainly the 'approved' method, though I think some people have successfully removed the camshafts on the (similar) 1.4/1.6 16V engines without doing so.

Renewing the camshaft oil seals would be a bit tricky, mind....
 

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David,
Cheers mate, just so I am 100% sure can i remove rocker cover by just undoing all the bolts on top or do the pullys have to come off as I don't get why they have to come off??? just want to be sure as my friend is coming wed to take head off but i just wanted to make head start and althought all bolts are undone it seems like it don't want to come off..cheers mate and sorry to be a pain..tone..
 

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No probs, Tone,

The cam cover has four locating dowels, which means it has to come off straight up, without much tilting - and I think this is where the pulleys get in the way. The cover can also be a pretty tight fit on these dowels. Once everything starts tilting, it's easy for the valve rockers to get unseated and possibly damage the camshaft lobes with all the 'tugging and waggling'.

The cam cover bolts should really be released in the correct sequence, to avoid potential distortions.
 
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just so I am 100% sure can i remove rocker cover by just undoing all the bolts on top or do the pullys have to come off as I don't get why they have to come off???
I have removed 3 cylinder F4R cylinder heads and I am 100% sure that the dephaser pulley has to come off 1st .The 2 circular parts of the cylinder head and cylinder head cover that forms the housing where the cam shaft seal is housed just sits inside the back of dephaser pulley and it won’t allow you to lift the cover high enough to remove it!





Out of curiosity the other day I tried it on a knackered F4R I have in the garage just to see why the cylinder head cover can’t be removed. Though I didn’t try the same with the exhaust sprocket. I guess I will another day

I have recently bought an F4R 2.0 engine which doesn’t have VVT so no dephaser pulley and I can see that the upper cylinder will lift of as the cam shaft sprockets on this engine don’t have counter sunk recessed faces on the back of the cam shaft sprockets. These type of pulleys are also used on the 1.4 16 valve engine that doesn’t have VVT

In any case I always remove the cam shaft sprockets to replace the cam shaft seals and it’s much easier to remove the pulleys with the cam shafts still in the engine.

Don’t be tempted to hold the cam shafts with the timing tool in the timing slots the cam shafts aren’t strong enough. I have made my own tool to retain the cam shaft sprockets out of a piece of bright draw rectangular bar which has a series of holes drilled down it’s length so it can be fitted to one of the two upper timing cover studs in the cylinder head. I have drilled and reamed one hole for a ground and hardened dowel which then can be slid into one of the holes in the exhaust sprocket or under one of the lugs on the dephaser pulley. Though one of the pulley retaining tools S80 has mentioned would be a better way to go
 
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Please ignore my photo in the last post what I said isn’t right :eek: It’s the lugs where the dephaser outer sprocket bolts to the inner parts that fouls the cylinder head and won’t allow the cylinder head cover to be removed. Also the exhaust sprocket has to come off as well before the cylinder head cover can be removed.

I made a tool originally for removing the sprockets off an engine with timing belt failure so maintaining the timing wasn’t important. On reassembly It does involve rotating the cam shafts after they have been timed and initially fastened so that you can then apply maximum tightening force. It is a lot of messing about as you can’t do both sprockets at the same time. It was originally for a one off and now some 4 engines on it would have been better investing in a proper tool like the one S80 has suggested which locks both sprockets in place at the same time so you can tighten them properly. Though there seems to be one for the 1.4 K4J & 1.6 K4M and another for the 1.8 F4P & 2.0 F4R which is a pain as it’s either K4J’s or F4R’s I always seem to end up working on and I would like a tool which would do all 4 engines like the cam shaft locking tool does.

I have another F4R 2.0 16 valve engine which doesn’t have VVT and you can see in the photo that these cam shaft sprockets will allow the cylinder head cover to removed with the sprockets in place. These are the same type of sprockets I have on my 1.4 Scenic with the K4J engine which is almost identical to look at compared to the 2.0 F4R engine.











 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks fella much appreciated and very helpful....managed to get back camshaft nut undone and wondered if you new what size hex bit i need for the front / dephaser pully??? I dont seem to have a hex bit big enough but I can go and get one today?? cheers again, tone...
 

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Thank you for the speedy response, very grateful...just spoke to my mate who has one so all good...thanks again...i will get there in the end, lol...
 

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Hi guys, after abit of a delay I have had the head all done and am putting it all back together at my own pace which is no garage speed lol, as I want to get it right. Can anyone confirm if the camshaft oil seal on the inlet exhaust camshaft should be pushed right home against the side of the head or should it only be flush with the outer surface if that makes sense??? I have a dephasser on my mine which is a 2.0 ltr petrol 16v.. many thanks in advance..would appreciate some advice on this one, thanks..
 

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Apologies for late update but thanks to all for help and the scenic is back on the road and running better than before with better mpg...happy days..had it done within a 2 weeks of posts on here...thanks guys again
 
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pulleys have to come off as you cannot lift the cam cover off with these attached im afraid
Yes that's right it was mentioned in post 8

It’s the lugs where the dephaser outer sprocket bolts to the inner parts that fouls the cylinder head and won’t allow the cylinder head cover to be removed. Also the exhaust sprocket has to come off as well before the cylinder head cover can be removed.



 
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