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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all i hope you can help my mum has just bought the car above and is having trouble with it i don't have any service history at all so don't know what has been done or not but anyway here goes.

1.the car sarts fine first thing but as she is getting used to driving it and stalls it at traffic lights it then won't start it turns over very sslow as though battery is dead after about 3 tries and it will suddenly go is it the immobelisor or i have readit could be something called TDC sensor i need a quick reply as she doesn't beleive me about the sensor and is having it into renault for new keys and reprogramme at a cost of £130 + vat.

2. when the engine gets warm and turn the heater on it only blows out cold air what could this be.

3.i have fitted an after market stereo as there wasn't on ein when she bought it but it keeps losing the settings and radio presets it s like it has no perm live going to it as it also only works when the ignition is turned could this be just a fuse on the perm live wire somewhere

thanks for any help on the above probs
 

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1 It won`t be the immobiliser (or it wouldn`t start at all). Check battery leads (under drivers seat).
2 This could just be an air lock in the system good instructions on how to bleed the pipes on another thread.
3 Have you checked that it is on a permanent live so it stays tuned when you turn the ignition off.
 

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Sounds like battery probs! Hi big brett - Renauts are designed so the radio will only work when the ignition is either at the first and second stage of ignition - this is to prevent people parking up and returning to a car with a flat battery. The connector plug or harness built in to the car at time of manufacture provides 2 power sources - one to retain the memory in whatever stereo is fitted (this is constantly live a provides a very small current) - the second only powers up when the ignition switch is activated - this actually powers the output of the radio. When fitting a non-renault stereo its best to use a converter block (available from most decent car stereo fitters/suppliers) - normally about £3-5 depending on the brand. Failure to connect these cables properly could damage the stereo or make the car battery run flat. For a few extra quid save yourself future trouble. Remember poorly fitted electrics can cause a fire which may not be covered by your insurance poilcy if thet find out you have made illicit or insafe modifications - they can refuse to pay out
 

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Discussion Starter #4
it uses the standard iso connectors that are already there but for some reason there is no constant live. I have looked at all fuses under steering wheel and they are ok but in haynes manual it says something about fuses in engine bay and the only ones i can find are the big 75 amp things.I have also checked the battery which was fully charged. so any other idea
 

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Constant live to radio

Hi bigbrett - yeh as Haynes suggest there is a secondary fuse box under the bonnet - not sure exactly where it is - but on most cars it usually resides near the bulkhead or close to the battery. If the vehicle was not supplied with a radio the relevant fuse may have been left out. Under bonnet fuse boxes are usually black with a snap on lid. Good luck and happy hunting.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i have found 2 sort of things like that the battery is under the drivers seat so on the drivers side under bonnet there is a live terminal that everything is connected to and on the passenger side there is a bigger black box with 2 75 amp fuses and a few relays and that is all i can find does any body have a picture of the terminal and wires behind the stereo i can have a look at to see that they are all wired correct
 

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radio connection

Hi bigbret - havinga wiring diagram wouldn't help. It won't tell you if it's live or not. Have you a test meter or test lamp. With radio disconnected and the igniton switch on you shouls have 2 live outputs from the ISO block. Another way would be to fine the colour of the wires and see if they appear under the bonnet and maybe you could then trace the fuse box. One other idea is to have a look inside the fuse box lid - (yeh the big one under the steering) it should have either a label or symbols showing what each fuse is for. It may also be better if you posted your prob in the electronic forum - maybe better chance of reply in there. Electrics are always difficult. When it comes to fuses its best to remove them one at a time and test them for continuity - that way you can be certain -again you'll need some means of testing - you could rig up a test lamp with a couple of pices of wire and a small bulb of no more than 5 watts. Take care wong wiring can cause a fire.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i'll just take it to an auto electrician he said he would sort it for a 10er.I have just noticed another thing though are the bulbs changeable in the high level brake light as it looks like 1 has blown and if you can where do i get them from how much and how do i do it
 

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brake light

Depending on the model renault fitted 2 different types of high level brake light - one was a series of small bulbs in a row but the later one is a printed circuit board with LED's - which are not replaceable - you have to buy a complete new base. If its the bulb type any decent motor factors will sort you out or better still if taking your car to an auto elctrician - let him have a look - it shouldn't be a big job. Lets know what happens and good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
great thanks. Now concerning the first problem about starting the damn thing i have just watched my mum start it a drivr off and there is loads of white smoke coming from the exuast so does this add to the diagnosis of the TDC sensor please get in touch quick as i have read that it can really mess up the cat or is this just on diesel models
 

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Staring Off

Hi bigbrett - when a car starts first thing in the morning especially in cold weather it will emit what appears to be white smoke from the exhaust (if you held a metal can over the end you will find it is actually water vapour which will condense inside the metal) - this is quite normal - in fact my neighbours car actually drips droplets of water from the exhaust. This is because the exhaust and the catalytic converter is cold - thats why during the MOT the car engine must be at normal operating temperature when testing the emission levels. If it continues to emit smoke or steam when its warmed up it could be something more serious. Regarding the heater -have you checked the coolant level - if it becomes low or empty it can't transmit heat. After a decent drive check the hoses to and from the radiator - they should be hot - be careful you can get easily burnt. If they are hot then check the hoses going to and from the heater - they disappear through the bulkhead - both should be hot - do this with the heater blower switched off. If no heat is gettinginto or out ofthe heater it could be either a faulty control on the heater box or a blocked heater matrix (its actually a small radiator). Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter #14
few but i do still think that the TDC sensor needs changing as i can't think what else could be causing the starting problems when the engine is warm i love this forum you are all so helpfull its great THANK ALL
 

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.

3.i have fitted an after market stereo as there wasn't on ein when she bought it but it keeps losing the settings and radio presets it s like it has no perm live going to it as it also only works when the ignition is turned could this be just a fuse on the perm live wire somewhere

thanks for any help on the above probs
hi all, sorry to bump such an old thread but did this ever get resolved? ive recently fitted a stereo and am having the same problem, all wired through an iso harness, all in the right imputs but still no apparent perm live. cheers for any help
 
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