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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok folks here follows a tutorial on replacing the front brake pads on a Scenic II.


As we'll be pushing the pistons back into the calipers there is a chance you might spill some brake fluid from the reservoir unless you remove the cap to allow the fluid back.
Pics 1, 2 & 3 show the engine cover in place and removed & how to gain access to the reservoir.




Jack up the front of the car and remove the wheel centre cap to gain access to the wheel nuts. Remove the wheel and you're confronted with the brake disc & caliper assembly ( Pics 4,5 & 6 )




Turn the steering outwards to allow better access to the caliper.
Use a large flat blade screwdriver to push back the piston into the caliper, by levering between the back of the brake pad and the caliper, until the piston is fully pushed back ( pics 7 & 8 )



Loosen then remove the top and bottom caliper bolts then remove the caliper ( pics 9 & 10 )



You'll then be left with the carrier part of the caliper and the pads ( pic 11 )


Remove the pads and small metal clips ( pics 12, 13 & 14 show the bits removed and a comparison between old and new pads)




Fit the new pads and clips - remembering to copaslip any areas where the pads come in contact with the clips then refit the outer part of the caliper & remember to tighten both bolts ( pics 15 & 16 )





Before you replace the wheel remember to pump the brake pedal until you feel the pedal as it was before you started - unless you have a morbid desire to crash your car !

Lower the car to the floor then do the same on the opposite side :d If you're only doing the front brakes, check the level in the reservoir and top up with Dot 4 fluid if needed, then replace the cap and the engine cover.
 

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Super Post Gonescenile, Great Pics I have added to my file for future reference.


This should be of great value to other Members who drive a Scenic II

Not a lot of room under the bonnet with the Diesel engine fitted .

Regards

Ottoman
 

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Great post and good pictures, just out of interest, how many miles did you get from the pads ? Regards Damian. :)
 

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Great post GS :)

It's exactly the same as the Laguna II pad change (although there's more room under the bonnet ;) ), and just goes to show that you only need 1 spanner (or socket) and a screwdriver to do the job, not a 7mm allen key that's been mentioned on a few recent posts!
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Cheers Gents.

It's by no means a difficult task, but some folks just don't have any experience with this type of stuff. Any little bit that might go a little bit to helping someone manage this job is good news I thought.

But ...... if you really think it's beyond your ability then get a garage or someone else to do it for you ;)

I'm halfway to doing the rear pad tutorial too as I changed them too, but I kinda had a wee internet connection prob .... all sorted now though :d I'll put it up sometime over the next few days ;)

Damian, the car has just passed the 30,000 mls mark, but to be honest the fronts would've managed another 6000+ mls easily. The rears however, were absolutely at their limit as you'll see from the pics soon. I'd bought both sets and had the time off work so I thought I'd do both anyway.

John, yes it's way too tight under the diesel bonnet for anything to be an easy job :rolleyes: Hopefully though, I've gained an "experienced friend" in the bloke that loaned me the tool that enable me to do the rear pads. Hopefully he'll help out with any major work i.e. timing belts, egr valve etc if they happen along. They are a totally different kettle of fish :confused:

Matt I used a 13mm socket & ratchet, a large flat blade screwdriver, a hydraulic jack for the front. A 15mm open end spanner, a 13mm socket & ratchet, a hydraulic jack and 1 special tool for the rears ...... and the usual wire brush and file to clear away all the [email protected] that seems to get into the calipers.
 

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Damian, the car has just passed the 30,000 mls mark, but to be honest the fronts would've managed another 6000+ mls easily. The rears however, were absolutely at their limit as you'll see from the pics soon. I'd bought both sets and had the time off work so I thought I'd do both anyway.
Strange that the rears were gone if the front still had plenty left on them ?

Regards

Ottoman
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah that's true, you would expect it to be the other way round, but .......... I had the car in the garage and reported to them the handbrake was sticking. They said they found no problem with it .... aye right :rolleyes:
When you see the pics on the tutorial for the rear brakes I think you'll be surprised with the amount of [email protected]/corrosion there was. The pads were very difficult to remove as they were siezed in place. With the brakes sticking on, the pads had no chance.
I think I'll be removing the rear calipers every 10,000 mls or so, just to ensure everything stays freed off enough from now on.
 

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Yeah that's true, you would expect it to be the other way round, but .......... I had the car in the garage and reported to them the handbrake was sticking. They said they found no problem with it .... aye right :rolleyes:
When you see the pics on the tutorial for the rear brakes I think you'll be surprised with the amount of [email protected]/corrosion there was. The pads were very difficult to remove as they were siezed in place. With the brakes sticking on, the pads had no chance.
I think I'll be removing the rear calipers every 10,000 mls or so, just to ensure everything stays freed off enough from now on.

I had on occasion sticking handbrake/rear brakes on my previous 05 Scenic II on reporting this to the workshop they said well they are not now even tho they carried out no work on the car.

I look forward to the post on rear pad replacement.

Regards

Ottoman
 

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Another great post. Thanks. May I just add that when I do brakes, a small bungee cord allows you to hang the caliper out of harm's way on the strut spring. I can see you've done this but its useful to know for first timers.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
DJC013 sorry it took so long for my memory to kick in :eek:

The price for the pads were :-
Fronts p/no 7701 209 444 £39.13 + Vat
Rears p/no 7701 208 421 £39.61 + Vat

As I get discount from my local garage I only paid about £28 + vat for each though.
 

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Thanks for good effort

Just a second thanks, from me, to Gonescenile for the Front AND Rear tutorials.

Gave me confidence to tackle a job I have done many times before ...but not on the mysterious and tetchy Renault world.


cheers
johnny53
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Cheers ...

I've been thinking over the next job and tutorial ............... and I reckon it'll be topping up the windscreen washer bottle :d ;)

Heh heh ..... seriously, I'm sure something else will happen along soon.
 

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A few more notes to Front Pad Tutorial

Having Just completed -- just thought I'd add a fgew notes to the tutorial (also on Rear Pad Tutorial...)

First - the excellent idea to use a bungie --- do so !


Second - The clips DO have dufferences, arrange your set so that orientation is correct


Third - DO use some copaslip ... it will really help, as long as you DO NOT smear it all over the pad faces !!!!



The Fronts were a piece of cake....
johnny53
 

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Yeh the rear disc brakes are different and a tool to rewind the pistoins back in is helpful - although I have heard of some people using a pair of long pointy nosed pliers:)
 

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Hi Stef - usually new pads come with two new bolts only - according to renault you only need to undo one bolt only - but in all honesty I use the replacemnt bolt and reuse one old one. Just make sure the bolts are well cleaned with a wire brush before applying thread lock:)
 

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My new front pads have only got a spare bolt no clips are you supposed to use new clips when you change the pads? Went on APECs web site and it say's contents of box as 4 pads 2 bolts 4 laminates are the laminates the clips?
 
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