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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

I've just purchased another scenic with a few issues to keep me busy over lockdown :oops: would just like a bit of advise or knowledge for the following, I have done a bit of research beforehand and a small amount of trouble shooting so far.

Handbrake fault - switch flashes, dash shows parking brake fault, cables have been unclipped from the calipers and the emergency release has been pulled. I have put the release handle back in & swapped the switch from my other scenic to rule that out. Switch still flashes and tried to reset by holding start, pulling the switch etc and I get no noise from the handbrake motor.

Windows - all 4 do not operate & only driver side one illuminates on the switches. Swapped with known working one & did a temic to no avail.

Heaters - doesn't work on any setting, no noise from the motor at all.

I haven't yet checked the fuses as when trying to get the fuse puller out it pinged up and went behind the glovebox somewhere :rolleyes: terrible design for a drop down fusebox too what a nightmare!

I'm guessing however that these issues will all be related to the R2 plug under the passenger seat? The storage box is soaked through completely.

Is removing the seat as simple as a few bolts in the rails or will I need to venture underneath? Obviously I will unplug the battery first because of the airbags.

Also the rear calipers look to be new so I'm guessing someone previously thought they would be the problem and not something electrical. Can I test the handbrake motor straight hooking it to a 12v battery or is this not advised/possible.

Not really wanting to spend any cash on this car as if worse comes to worse I'll strip the wheels off for the missus scenic and the tyres have paid for themselves!

Thanks
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Take the glove box out, dont mess about trying to do any work with glove box in. as the fuses to the windows and heater are in there, but if fuses are good, then you need to get at the wires, You will also need to get at the carpet to pull it up to get at the wiring under the seat..
You really need some form of diagnostic tester that will read all faults.. This will show you where to look as regards the handbrake.
There are a few good reads on here regarding the wiring..
JUST dont touch the plugs UNTIL you have taken loads of pictures showing the wires each side of the plug under the seat..

How easy the seat comes out.?
A lot depends on how strong you are, as its heavier than it looks

You have airbag connectors, Four bolts, and then its getting the seat to come out, so make sure you have enough room to get the seat through the door, as the door needs to be fully open ..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Cheers I'll get the glove box out one night this week then, can't replace fuses as of yet need to wait for the spares to turn up anyway but will be easier if I make the space first.

Usually borrow the Renault clip from the garage by me but can't access it at the moment because they're all closed. Will give my reader a go but it's usually terrible at picking up anything.

Thanks for the door part I'll need to move it out of the hedge a bit then to open it fully haha.

Yeah plenty of pictures will be taken as I've seen it doesn't go colour co ordinated.

I'm thinking the heater could just be the resistor and loom as this would be before the r2 connector so shouldn't really be interfered by the water problem. Got a spare from an old megane here that looks the same so I'll swap it out with that.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Why not use the Fuses out of the megane , you've got too much money you have..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Other half will behead me if I start picking apart her car anymore haha. I've got a vel satis fusebox here somewhere actually, might be onto a winner there if I didn't already take the fuses from it!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Following on I've done a bit more disassembly before I ran out of light.

Glove box & lower dash out. Wiring to heater resistor has burnt so will need to replace that and the resistor for the heaters.

All fuses are good in the Glove box & under the passenger seat.

Scuttle panel has been removed and the drains have been cleared.

Storage tray and footwell storage box have been removed. Foam and insulation is soaked through although no standing water is present.

R2 connector has indeed been submerged at some point though, top looks to be fine however the bottom has gone badly green with corrosion, thankfully all the wires are still in each pin so shouldn't be too bad a task to connect it all one by one and bypass the connector :) I'll try get some pictures along the way to document the process for anyone in the future and see if it resolves the issue.

Just a quick one, as the handbrake cables are disconnected from the calipers this wouldn't show as a fault if I'm correct? The cables will still be able to move freely as if in operation or do they need to be attached to allow tension? Not sure whether to re attach them now or later.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Another update as of the weekend, didn't get a chance for pictures as the task was bad enough!

For reference for anyone it's 4 torx bolts in the seat rails, then lifting the carpet in various places and pulling the black plastic that houses the under seat drawer in. I also pulled the grey trim off down the bottom of the door & seatbelt area. The seat I simply lifted out after unplugging the airbag wiring and left in lying along the back seats as I didn't want to fiddle with the seatbelt anchor at the top.

Insulation was soaked through with loads of water present at the rear of the car (Mine was on a slope so it might have gathered there more) I pulled the insulation and simply threw it, wasn't worth my time drying and replacing.

With the r2 connector work it one by one, I only did the wires on the "load" side of the plug as many on the "supply" side were not actually going to anything. All cut and stripped, much of the copper was black with oxidisation so I used 1 cup of vinegar & salt to dip the wires in, then pulled out and scrubbed with a scourer, then dipped in another cup of baking soda and water to neutralise & all the copper was clean again. Each was then electrical taped to protect.

Further to this I also housed all of the wires within an air tight food container to protect them from any further water ingress. Drilled a hole in one side, got all the cabling through and then sealed the hole with gutter sealant. Doesn't look pretty but it's water tight and won't be seen again anyway.

Anyway the Windows are now all functional thankfully!

Handbrake still brings up fault however I have yet to reconnect the cables to the calipers & reset the fault code, hopefully the car is now at least communicating with the handbrake module anyway.

Took me about 6 hours start to finish and was by far the most tedious job I have had to do!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Follow up to this if anyone can help.

Handbrake module has been removed, motor inside isolated and run directly to 12v and it spins either way just fine and moves all the gears as it should.

The blue Omron relay doesn't have any bubbles present as is the case on faulty ones.

Handbrake still will not operate, switch has been tested and is fine. Power is going to the handbrake unit itself as when plugged in you can hear 3 faint electrical noises that sound like relays getting power. Doesn't do this if I pull the 25 amp fuse from under the seat and then plug it in.

Does anyone have any ideas of anything obvious I could have missed?

Unit isn't currently connected to any of the brake cables etc however should operate with these off as it simply winds the motor and pulls the cable that is connected so it doesn't actually know it's not all hooked up.

No signs of water ingress, when I first opened it up it's obvious someone has been there before me as it's had a replacement motor put in & they had put the blue ribbon cable back on incorrectly.

Clip brought up logged faults as short to earth (I think, garage forgot to take pictures of the codes and could only remember that one)
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Wires are sorted on the R2 connector then?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Wires are sorted on the R2 connector then?
Thankfully yep, was a nightmare! Had to douse each wire in a cup of salt & vinegar to remove the oxidisation on the copper.

Since doing that the Windows all now operate & everything else is functional.

I'm tempted to swap the module from the other halfs scenic onto this one and see if either of them work then. Cars are exactly the same spec as one another and year so I'm sure I've seen that it will work fine it's just the vin stored will be different. Didn't want to mess with it previously because I'll be killed if I end up destroying her handbrake too.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Would be really tempted to use diagnostics now, and see what the problem is.
Pretty sure these need faults clearing with diagnostics

R3 CDP + VCI ( Use this in search bar on tbay )
£37 off Tbay , cheapest I could find
 
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