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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi there, it's my other halfs scenic megane prestige on the 02 plate? (52) so right between the two models registered 28th Dec 02. It's the 1.8 16v Petrol.


I had some stalling issues after having the cam belt done. Seemed to improve after getting a leaky power steering sensor switch replaced on the power steering pipework.


I've also noticed the air inlet duct was not connected properly to what I think is the air filter box. I wonder if there should be a cable tie or something else like a piece of rubber that could be missing around there? Or is it a bit flimsy for everyone?




Has anyone else had random stalling when depressing the clutch at slow speed and often when turning a corner?


An example of this maybe approaching a roundabout and slowing down to a few mph and then putting the clutch in... stall? anyone? cheers.
 

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Fill your garage in, no idea what engine size
 

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Discussion Starter #4
My questions were, has anyone had problems with stalling after having the Cam belt done (every thing was fine before)?

Air box air vent into air filter seems loose with a gap, could this cause stalling issues?

It seems the leaking power steering sensor has something to do with it and the car seemed to improve. Would anyone recommending doing the reset on the ECU in order for it to adjust after swapping out the steering sensor?

Is there supposed to be a cable tie or something holding the air ducts together?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Also, is it worth checking any of the following which I've found by searching the whole internet for scenic stalling problems (although some may apply to other models): earth strap to battery engine at back, engine coolant temperature sensor (controls fuel injection mixture), air leaking from 3 hoses connected together atop of engine, idle air control sensor near throttle body - clean.


P.S. where is the engine coolant temperature sensor on a scenic anyone?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
OK, I realise no-one's been able to reply to this thread but I'll keep posting my thoughts in case anyone needs something to read to get them off to sleep. ;)


The car has somewhat improved since changing the air filter, re jigging the air intake so it's actually connected and cleaning the TDC Sensor with spray.


The car still stalls at junctions but only occasionally and runs amazing on the motorway - better than it ever has done.


To recap, it came out of timing belt change stalling at every junction when you depress the clutch. There was a leak through the pressure switch in the power steering which wasn't telling the ECU to give it enough revs.


It seems, when it does stall, that it is still something to do with the steering. Can you get air bubbles in the steering which would make that switch, albeit brand new, still malfunction?


Further plans are to take the whole throttle body housing off to spray in there, but my exact model is not detailed in the Haynes and I haven't done it before.
 

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Throttle body can affect idling so cleaning it carefully should do no harm.

Air in PAS?
Tends to make steering do funny things but not a normal problem as they tend to self bleed.
To ensure, take steering full lock to lock a few times.

Otherwise it is as you are doing, check for anything that may have been disturbed by the belt change and anyting that could be coincidentally causing poor idle.
Loose pipes and dodgy earths come into that.

Coolant sensor is on the thermostat housing I believe.

Seems to remember (though would need to check) that timing being one tooth out can cause idle problems...
May be an idea to ask whoever did the belt to confirm timing.
 

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The 2 very most likely causes to your problem has to be the idle air control valve which is soley controlled by the ecu & should have a 4 terminal plug 2 x 12v feeds & 2 return signal wires to the ecu pin no's ???. Very most likely causes wiring ecu would recommend removal of this valve from it's housing & clean out re-insert & check idling
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you guys for the replies.
It's a bit disconcerting that the timing can cause these issues, and it hints in the Haynes fault finding section that an incorrectly tensioned belt can also cause stalling.
However, the reason I've had to look for other causes is because the garage is adamant that it's nothing they've done. (even though there were absolutely no stalling issues before it went in). They were going to charge £50 just to clean the throttle body.

The problem is that all the garages are fully booked around here for the next 2 weeks, and when you see 40 cars in the yard of the garage who did this, they don't seem inclined to want to take it apart just to check something, whereas as far as they are concerned I could have taken a car that wasn't running smoothly.

Where we are at the moment is that you can do a commute to town and back and it not stall at all since I sprayed cleaner in the direction of the throttle body and change the air filter. But then if you start an already warm engine up and drive a few yards and clutch in, and it may stall or almost stall indicating that it is still not quite right.

So the problem clearly is vastly improved. Could it be that the belt isn't 100% right and it is a coexisiting problem having a contributory affect together with the dirty throttle body, and before hand, the leaky power steering switch. Or is it that if it was the belt tension, then the car would be affected at full speed which it isn't (as far as we know)?

The other thing is before, the car had some tolerance for a dirty air filter etc, whereas in the future, we know the slightest thing is going to cause stalling issues. hmmm.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
This problem has actually deteriorated again. I've been able to establish that it is no longer anything to do with the power steering as you can hear the revs kick up when you turn the wheel either way while stationary. It is now stalling 7 or 8 times per short journey, so back as bad as it was at the start.


Does anyone have an idiots guide to cleaning the throttle body where it is right at the back of the engine (on it's side?). I realise I have to pull out the air filter and air box, but I can't see what screws or clips are holding it in at that point?
 

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Do you know if it has & Where located, an Idle control valve (ICV) ? I don't know owt about the 1.8, so humour me. Better still, post an under bonnet picture.
From the throttle body. Locate & check for integrity of any pipes. Especially if one goes from TB to something mounted on the bulkhead. If it's there, check the back of the pipe for splits? Mirror needed or pull it off.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Yes, well the Mrs has taken the car to work because we have no choice, and travels around trying to avoid stalling all the time.


But from memory, yes it has a black tough PVC pipe that runs to the small black cylinder in the bulk head which also has wires coming out of it. And I believe there a similar pipe also going of in another direction. Will post some pics tonight. Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
OK, finally I can add some pictures. Are these able to shed any light on what type of throttle body I have and idle air sensor? What's the best way to get at this throttle body to clean it? I tested for leaks along the PVC pipe from throttle body to the front and couldn't find any obvious leaks using soap.
 

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You'll need to get your head in to see it, If it has one.
See your piccy editted.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
OK, I've posted the picture below. The picture from before was the black plastic pipe that comes from the top of the throttle body towards the front of the car on the left, looking in, to a black plastic device (love to know what that is) and has another pipe disappearing back off up the side of the engine. The picture below is the braided pipe that comes out of the side and seems to disappear off either through the bulk head or around the back of the engine. Only had a few minutes so couldn't quite reach the end of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I have a feeling that the braided tube is something else. Is it the accelerator cable?

If so is there a idle control valve somewhere else as I cannot find a clutch switch around the clutch pedal?

In order to clean the throttle body, do I have to remove the large plastic air manifold that sits on top of the engine in picture 1?
I am hesitant to do this in case it involves replacing gaskets etc?

many thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Can any one help? I would really like to clean the throttle body Sunday as car is needed Monday.

Do I have to remove the large plastic air manifold/shroud on top of the engine, or will doing so involve changing any gaskets?

This is a picture I copied from another thread showing the idle air valve.
 

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Can any one help? I would really like to clean the throttle body Sunday as car is needed Monday.

Do I have to remove the large plastic air manifold/shroud on top of the engine, or will doing so involve changing any gaskets?

This is a picture I copied from another thread showing the idle air valve.
If that is the IAV, give that a clean with Brake cleaner. Do not try to move the plunger. Remove it, leave it wired & Squirt, then put ignition on, see if it moves.
Shouldn't need any gaskets if careful. IIRC there's O rings, bit of grease should sort them.
 
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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks but I wanted to do the full clean of the throttle body and don't even know where it is. Do you know if I have to take off that whole air inlet bit on top of the engine? cheers.
 

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Thanks but I wanted to do the full clean of the throttle body and don't even know where it is. Do you know if I have to take off that whole air inlet bit on top of the engine? cheers.
See the throttle cable That runs over the top of the inlet Manifold, At the end of it is the throttle body. Probably have to remove everything from the Yellow arrow rightwards.
 
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