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Discussion Starter #1
Renault mk1 scenic 2001/2 dci 1.9

For a while my cooling system had needed topping up. I need to know the method for bleeding the system as I am sure I am doing it wrong,
I had bled the cooling system and I am sure it was ok but a garage has now flushed the system and put in coolant. Again I have to keep topping it up as I don’t think they bled system correctly.

Also they did pressure test system and found no leaks.
I have a Haynes manual.
New header tank cap
thermostat ok.

I have read some posts and think there are two bleed screws? I have only just found that out and before I had only bled the system with the one near the bulkhead (in picture)
Q) For my Renault are these the bleed screws? As per picture?
and
Q) I do this – engine off , remove bottom one and bleed and then the top one near the bulkhead ? (Very hard to get to the one near the water pump)

180674
 

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Discussion Starter #2
lower bleed screw ? Is this right ?

lower bleed screw by water pump area 1.jpg

The bulkhead bleed screw
higher bleed screw by bulkhead 1.jpg
 

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Sexy at 71 super mod..
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Thats them as far as I can see but you need the engine running and system under pressure to bleed..should see all air bubbling out from the valves when you are doing it..
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I see.
I have (with plastic gloves as hot)
-header cap off and full to neck of coolant
-engine running
-unscrewed the top bleed and air bubbles were seen.

q) am I just unscrewing a bit to let air out ? (there is no benefit of unscrewing fully and letting water pump out ?

q) do I do bottom first ? both at same time ?

Also I will revisit tomorrow but I spent 20mins and bubbles were still coming out ?
 

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Sexy at 71 super mod..
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I see.
I have (with plastic gloves as hot)
-header cap off and full to neck of coolant
-engine running
-unscrewed the top bleed and air bubbles were seen.

q) am I just unscrewing a bit to let air out ? (there is no benefit of unscrewing fully and letting water pump out ?

q) do I do bottom first ? both at same time ?

Also I will revisit tomorrow but I spent 20mins and bubbles were still coming out ?
Unscrewing enough just to expellaire not water..as for which nipple first..what does it say in the manual..
 

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Discussion Starter #6
it states to do it:
-engine off
-bleed screws undone
-then as per pic

Thing is I cant see how that can work? your method seems logical. 20191125_184805_resize_63.jpg

I'll try tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I am still at a loss for the specific way to do company bleeding.

I could wait forever waiting for bubbles to stop when it is warm. As under pressure one cannot tell if air bubbles or coolant .

if I remove bleed screws water flows out fine and seems free of air bottom and top bleed valves.

I simply cannot get the level right a d it's been tested for no leaks.

just taken for a test run and 8m coolant an inch from bottom.

the closest I got to a stationary level was when I did it cold. coolant to neck need of filler and kept it so. removed bottom and then top letting water flow out. shut off bleed screws and made sure spot on level.
the instructions are ambiguous . do I put the cap on with level to the neck ? or remove to the level.

so I am still totally not sure of the sequence to bleed a system that has coolant in.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
cant edit posts for spelling so they remain.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I attach step on manual that is unclear. do you fit cal when fluid up to neck ?
 

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Sexy at 71 super mod..
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I did say the system has to be under pressure to do it..had a real stubborn one one day on a D4F 722 engine..couldn't get the water to circulate due to air pocket..filled up to the brim and took it for a short run around the block [bout 1/4 mile..up a hill and down a hill just to clear the air..worked a treat for me and the temp gauge was climbing fast just as I pulled on my drive ..let it cool a bit and removed the cap on expansion tank when it cooled and it took lots more coolant..that did it for me..checked it again when cold after a run and all was ok..the engine has to run according to the guide @ 2.5K revs with the cap on according to the guide..so do that..needs that amount of revs so the pump can shift around the system..bleed by the bulkhead will possibly for heater matrix..air always seems to trap there easily in my experience and its why heaters blow cold after a coolant change ..
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I think I am getting there. Your method mirrors the manual but you drive it as I am do.
I just worried about cap on and coolant full to rim after initial 4mins @2500 revs.
I have always at that point removed coolant to the max level.

I also find (i think) blled screws off and allow fluid to stream out cold or hot sometimes might assist .

will test again tomorrow
 

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Discussion Starter #12
After my last top to neck (but with cap off) and bleeding by doing bottom and top bleed sort of every 5 mins when running
INCLUDING
on occasions with rubber glove letting water flow out for a second or it seems better.

even now I dont know the correct sequence to do this as all I have done is play about. haynes manual ambiguous .

all I know is if this doesn't work I will use your method of get to an stage and then fill to brim cap on and drive for say 1/4 mile up and down a hill.......

I'll keep this thread open until i have a sure fire sequence to do this.
 

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Sexy at 71 super mod..
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After my last top to neck (but with cap off) and bleeding by doing bottom and top bleed sort of every 5 mins when running
INCLUDING
on occasions with rubber glove letting water flow out for a second or it seems better.

even now I dont know the correct sequence to do this as all I have done is play about. haynes manual ambiguous .

all I know is if this doesn't work I will use your method of get to an stage and then fill to brim cap on and drive for say 1/4 mile up and down a hill.......

I'll keep this thread open until i have a sure fire sequence to do this.
Thanks for reporting back..
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Will update with the sequence after long run Monday.
 

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Not sure if relevant on the Mk1 but some Peugeots had the filler lower then the bleed points and heater.
You had to fill with an extension to raise the head height... a 2litre soft drink bottle with the base cut off and the neck pushed into the filler (plus a little duct tape) did the job.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
now I like that idea !
a slow burner this one as cant re check , tinker till next weekend after a 200m round trip . so ideal test to see status now.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I did say the system has to be under pressure to do it..had a real stubborn one one day on a D4F 722 engine..couldn't get the water to circulate due to air pocket..filled up to the brim and took it for a short run around the block [bout 1/4 mile..up a hill and down a hill just to clear the air..worked a treat for me and the temp gauge was climbing fast just as I pulled on my drive ..let it cool a bit and removed the cap on expansion tank when it cooled and it took lots more coolant..that did it for me..checked it again when cold after a run and all was ok..the engine has to run according to the guide @ 2.5K revs with the cap on according to the guide..so do that..needs that amount of revs so the pump can shift around the system..bleed by the bulkhead will possibly for heater matrix..air always seems to trap there easily in my experience and its why heaters blow cold after a coolant change ..
Can I ask one question about this method?
You say "filled up to the brim and took it for a short run around the block [bout 1/4 mile..up a hill and down a hill"
was that with the cap on or off ? As where could the air get out if the cap was on and filled to the brim ?
Would it not explode ?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I was just dotting the i"s as I have bought another car .Simply impossible to waste so much time and then money on coolant and garages and never fix something. my car will be scrapped as I simply have no idea where coolant is going and no one else does either. its undriveable.

all I gained from.a month of work is that an autel ap200 diag tool is excellent and a loss of money and knowledge that garages armed with all the tools , diagrams etc cant even come close to fixing it. I then reward their failure with the bill.

The answer was sat on my drive. VW'S. They work and last and are logical to work on. What possessed me to change i have no idea.

Brilliant site guys but wrong make of car . Also without diagrams , (as it is with not having a diag tool) it's no longer possible to fix these cars at home.

I went 5000 miles round Europe on my 1980 gs550 a few years ago. had carbs out in a field and others issues all fixable .
I think it is best to skip cars made from 1995-2022 and wait for electronic cars and save the design dead end mistake made .

I used to own a Ferrari 328gts quadrovalve. Again logical to work on.

Renault - bloody bad show !
 

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There is no such thing as an unfixable car.
Whether the fix is simple or needs more then the car is worth is a different matter.
Have fun with the VW.
 
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