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Super Moderator Technical Supremo Platinum Member
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If it is the HG needed, nothing that the average DIY enthusiast is unlikely to already have will be needed.
Or at least nothing significant.
Good trolley jack plus axle stands.
Good socket set, spanners (open and ring), screwdrivers, allen/torx keys/bits.
Impact gun really does help with crank pulley....240v wired one or if you have a compressor from your bike work, an air clatter gun.
Torque spanner and angle setting tool.... the latter can be a school protractor and a bit of chalk.
Job has two major parts but both simply follow the numbers... HG and Timing.
Yes engine mounts will need removing, yes there may be parts that don't go exactly to plan but you will have the luxury of a second car and no time pressure.... so really it is strip down, ensure no expensive or insurmountable issues, buy the parts, rebuild.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
You give me confidence! I have all those tools you mention bar any air powered tools. But have a elec rattle impact gun.
And you are right I have unlimited time . if it took 3 months that would be fine.
(I would go at it mind with 10 hour days).
I still say the project relies on me doing above AND more importantly the assistance of this site in certain areas. Without that , for me it would be impossible.
Only issue is the garage will have to be cleared out ... I'll consider options.
But this is now a challenge with nothing to lose and lots to gain if only experience.

will update on steel seal later
(remember K seal didnt help at all)
 

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Discussion Starter #43
p.s my motorbikes are all air cooled 80's 4 strokes and one 77 rd250 2 stroke ......
but well versed in head gaskets and slimming heads on those if needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
update:
90m one way no overheat but when left for 4 hours coolant was down to below low mark.
topped up.
90m back no overheat bit coolant again below low mark.

tested with my diesel sniff tester cheapo off ebay.
it remained red (not turning yellow ) meaning no combustion leak.
IF THIS TESTER WORKS....

back on gravity method overnight and will bleed on both bleed screws tomorrow.

will contact steel seal and get another bottle hopefully free and run it with water only so no contaminant and low on water too just above rad level so it cant blow out treatment .

make sense of that ....
 

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Discussion Starter #45
should I try a new thermostat? clutching at straws but if I flush again should I?

can you get the thermostat out of housing? as they cost only 2£ from euro parts.
 

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No point swapping stat.... housings have been known to leak but if you can see no sign of one, don't fix what aint bust.

If it is HG gas overpressurising the system, two symptoms that don't rely on gas tests.

One is coolant overflow from expansion tank... could also be cap but those have been changed so unlikely.

Second is the system getting pressurised early. The hoses when cold are squishy, when hot, hard.
If they are getting hard when engine is not hot, that is likely to be because pressure from cylinders is getting into the coolant.
 

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To me it sounds like the problem is more of a leak than anything else as you are not losing all the coolant seeing it still settles around the low mark. Doesn't a slow dripping bathroom tap waste around 1 - 2 gallons of water per day? Your water loss is much less than this but still enough to notice in the expansion tank levels.
Have you checked the radiator core? ..... I recall on the old radiators the solder joints getting weak with age around the tubes that would cause a very slow pin-hole leak. Don't know if the modern ally ones tend to suffer the same age problem?.
 
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Discussion Starter #48
It's tough as I go on what garages say but I have to take it with a pinch of salt.

I am told there is no leak under pressure test

I am told it is the head gasket

My tests:

my ebay head tester indicated that it was ok (after I put in steal seal). but that itself has to be taken with a pinch of salt.

I can and never have seen a leak. (bar many many years ago a rad leak that I felt xed with radweld). it at that time was not pressuring or blowing out of cap.

since steel seal I am getting results as posted.

I have just tried the fill to. neck, cap on, drive for say 3miles then let cool to blow out any air locks.
I still do gravity method nightly.

this eve I will have results of that after a 15m run.

I will try steel seal one more time with just water if they gi e me another bottle. they oddly have gone quiet now though!

I would try another radiator but all works on this car are by me as it has gone past be ng affordable now to send t garage
 

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I'm not going to say it is head gasket.... it took me a long time to decide that had to be the problem with my Kia and even after all was rebuilt, was still not certain, only time and no coolant loss proved it to me.

Rad... possible. Last one I changed was on a Pug 207.... loosing coolant but no signs where except a slight dampness at the bottom of the rad that tasted of anti freeze, kept an eye on it and wasn't drying so swapped the rad.... cured.
Aluminium one where the fins to tank seals are a crimp to a gasket.

Water pump is another fvourite…. dry when static, spits out a little water when running, all hidden so difficult to spot.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
ok but the constant blowing out of coolant tank ? it is being pressurised.... ?

but seemingly less so after 1 dose of steel seal ?

ill keep an eye on it this run and report as it could have sorted the possible air lock.
if not it's as you say swapping parts something I have only swapped out the cap so far
 

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Discussion Starter #51
I think I need to test:
if coolant continues to drop if I dont top up when its get below the low mark.

it might mean soming if it just stays there ?
 

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Perhaps you should start with a new top-up to only halfway between full and low marks (mark with a marker pen if poss) and try and maintain this level after journeys and new top ups. That should lessen any confusion between natural hot expansion rather than gas pressure expulsion; and you won't risk of air locks with the coolant settling below the low-level mark. The expansion bottle does not have to be full to the top.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
will do.
just done 17m , 1/2 that towing 1/4 ton of scalping.
from high level it's now 1/2 way down. (this after last attempt to sort possible air lock)
tis possible tis getting better.

will now do 1/2 and see what. happens.
I ain't ever giving in on this. I have unlimited time to do this now.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
bought myself an xmas present as getting these pipe clips off is. not fun even with a proper tool. this additional tool is what I need for the terrible to access clips.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Coolant loss update:
Short drive 17m yesterday and was topped to H level.
Stopped , when engine slightly cooler checked and was at 1/2 way.
this morning it is 1cm below low mark.

topped up to half way now. and this will be so until further notice.
(dont forget we are on the first post treatment of steal seal)

Steel seal update:
They have agreed to send me another bottle.
This time I will do:
-flush system totally
-use water only
-make sure as per their instructions to keep level low , as low as just to top of radiator so it doesn't blow out for duration of test (about an hour of running engine)

I will then top up with blue (non long lasting coolant) (I had red in before)

I am convinced my lack of servicing the flushing the coolant had a play to this event !! only this week have I managed to do it.myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
As steel seal have been so helpful can we remove the derogatory bits I wrote.
they are a class act in communications and are sending me another bottle.

if course it might not work still but they helped enormously.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
so last nights 15m drive , stop , cap still on. (after the steal seal treatment that afternoon)
in morning :
coolant below low level.

so:
it has either not worked
or
it needs some time to bleed out , so continue with gravity method bleeding.

so I cant be 100% sure steel seal is a total pack of rubbish which deep down I know to be the case. I was sucked in... but let's wait 2 more days bleeding.

it says garunteed to work
BUT
to get money back 35£, you have to have a garage sign a document saying it's the head gasket. (that will cost a minimum of 25£ +).

starting to consider whether I could do the head gasket. I have done countless motorcycles but this car is a bigger proposition.

haynes rates as 4spanner difficulty. removing thernoststat was a 2spanner.
 

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As steel seal have been so helpful can we remove the derogatory bits I wrote.
I think you can go back over your posts and make edits yourself .... click on the 3 vertical dots and that should bring up the edit function (don't think there is a time limit on this like we had on the old forum platform).
 

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Super Moderator Technical Supremo Platinum Member
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As steel seal have been so helpful can we remove the derogatory bits I wrote.
they are a class act in communications and are sending me another bottle.

if course it might not work still but they helped enormously.
Nothing you've said falls outside of the Forum's policy on derogatory comments.
We do have a no name or shame policy but at the moment, all you have done is said what has occurred.

So no, I'm not going back over the thread to edit.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
I suppose. but for the record if anyone gets this far I am impressed with service from steel seal.
 
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