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Discussion Starter #61
Coolant loss update :

There seems to be a change.

So last night after a 90m run
I filled up from just below low mark to half way. Engine hot !

in morning it was on low mark. topped up to half way .

7m run and when engine hot it was on H mark and not bubbling over.
parked up for 4 hours and when cold it was half way again (good sign)
7m run back and when engine cold it's on half way !

so for first time since the original sudden overheat it has remained at a level (being only filled half way).

what was done:
-steel seal (filled prob incorrectly with red coolant , should be blue- non long life)
-prob overfilled during treatment of steel seal as with blow back need very low coolant level.
-started only filling to half way up coolant tank.
(and have blead in every way possible to no avail but the last one was 3m with tank filled to neck and cap on and heat up car then cool)

Steel seal are sending another bottle free.

So I will assume I test as is and continue half way up level ....
 

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Discussion Starter #62
Short run today.
start at 1/2 way no loss overnight.
8m zero bubbling over a d when hot got to just below h mark. no bubbling over.

I hardly dare say the words ...

steel seal sent the new bottle and arrived today.
I will refrain from using second bottle until we have exhausted this test.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
How to flush through the engine ?

I would start another thread bit not allowed... bit if I need to do this again I want to be ready.
I when I did this followed Haynes and removed thermostat and forced water through the pipe which went on the top of rad back into engine.

but as this pipe goes down almost to the bottom.of the engine it cant be right as it flows out of the bottom rad pipe (when its removed )

how do I flush the engine properly ? via where thermostat was and seal hose with rags ?
how you guys do it ?
 

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Technical Supremo, Platinum Member
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I'm a bit confused by your description but basically once thermostat removed ..... not involving the radiator .... hosepipe (or water container and funnel) into thermostat housing (or the rubber coolant pipe attached to it) and remove bottom hose from the block (or radiator end) and let water pass through at high flow until clean.
You can flush the radiator through separately .... but whether its best to flush through in normal flow direction or to back flush is open to debate.
 

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Super Moderator Technical Supremo Platinum Member
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Never removed the thermostat housing though there is an argument for removing the stat to enable full flow.
I basically stuff a hosepipe into the top hose and backflush...waste coming out of bottom hose.
OR
Drain coolant, fill with water, run it up, drain, rinse and repeat till water comes out clear.

I've also tried Bugb's method of a dishwasher tab (without powerball) into the system and run it up to temp, give it a little time, then drain and flush with clean water. Seemed to work.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
It's hard to describe what I mean ...
I can flush radiator easily.
I can flush heating pipes (there are two and simply hose into one.)

The engine however I did as per Haynes hose into top radiator pipe back Into engine with bottom rad pipe off
BUT
The top rad pipe back to the engine goes down to near where the bottom rad pipe comes out ?
SO
When I flush it's as if it is not going round whole engine ? indeed when I did this I had the thermostat off and no water came out of thermostat opening?

So haynes is thus wrong.
I was wandering do I stick hose in thermostat opening (seal with a rag) and do that until water comes out bottom hose clear.

I ask as I simply dont know ? I have to assume that this is the way if thermostat off.
I did this but but I feel not rigorously enough.

Just want to be ready for next time . If indeed I do this with steel seal in a week OR in two years time.

coolant loss update :
still at half mark (after yesterday's run).
This is looking rather encouraging.... but I still have not done a long run with half full and time since putting in steel seal. (I wander if time helps steel seal work?)
 

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Technical Supremo, Platinum Member
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I was wandering do I stick hose in thermostat opening (seal with a rag) and do that until water comes out bottom hose clear.
I see what you mean. If the thermosat is at the highest point on the engine then I would put the hosepipe in at this location.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Will do that when flush.

coolant update :
such a shame 8m into town looked when stopped and on L mark so dropped.
back 8m and checked when cold and below low mark.
put 1l of coolant to get it back to 1/2 again.

Terrible news but I think I have exhausted every type of test.

plan is thus to flush , add pure water with steel seal and run to hot and pray that works.

remember:
-garage say its head gasket
-another garage said there was no leak (I worry about this though, cant be sure but perhaps they did do a test )
-I've been bleeding for weeks. to no benefit.
-changed cap only
- tried K seal , didnt work
-tried steel seal but did not put in fully correctly as per perfect method.
however:
- my sniffer test said it was not combustion in coolant system.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Think we have been over the reason. Head gasket gone pressurisinng system but no leaks only via cap. all tested by garage.

steel seal my only hope now when new hose clip tool arrives. (seriously inaccessible clips to get too). will do this next week.

If it doesn't work I will do the head gasket. only i can do that to make it financially viable as I have unlimited time but no skill whatsoever in doing it.
 

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Except confirming when the system pressurises.
If the hoses get hard when the engine is warming up
BOB .. I don't think you have qualified this test for us so would you do that please? Do the hoses get hard or remain pliable when starting from cold and letting the engine warm to open thermostat temperature.
 

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Update on pipe flex:

the pipes were both flexible when cold and hot.
The top rad pipe and bottom rad pipe were hot when up to temp.

what does this mean ?
It sounds like your hoses are good then. I too find that both top and bottom hoses on my van feel about the same temperature though I've no heating issues. I put it down to the sideways mounted radiator. On all my previous old cars that had a traditional steel/copper upright radiator I could always feel a temperature difference between hoses.
 

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I took a video of it bubbling over after I got back from a 15m drive and when I tested pipes.

damn cant upload. but basically bubbling out of cap
Don't know how to upload videos directly onto the forum but another way is can you upload onto Youtube and then provide the link on the forum ?
 

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Discussion Starter #79 (Edited)
plan;

I will do steel seal treatment tomorrow or wed when the pipe clip tool arrives (essentiall if wanna keep sanity when removing clips )

I might test remove radiator . again haynes misses sk many steps it's barely worth reading.
it I am.prepared to spend a new rad as a last test pre head gasket change.
(a new head gasket would be a major job for me and even may fail doing it but nothing to lose . reading haynes horrified me as can barely understand a word of it. so vague it's practically useless.

steel seal first .
 
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