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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Courteousy of the the WM Travel, my Espace now has one broken mirrir (not the whole thing, justthe casing but I've had to buy a replacemnet mirror which worked out cheaper than the casing which the dealers wanted £90 + VAT for!).

Anyways, I started prepping it today for painting... it was quite a mission seperating all the bits to get the covers off so that I don't need to mask anything off.

I've rubbed it down with wet and dry 400, cleaned both parts and primered them.... but whats next?

Is the following correct or do I need to do anything in between:

1) rub them down with wet and dry 600 and reprimer them

2) rub down the primer (w&d 600) and apply 1st coat.

3) wait 2 hours, rub down 1st coat (w&d 600) and apply 2nd coat.

4) wait 2 hours, rub down 2nd coat (w&d 600) and apply 3rd and final coat.

5) wait 24 hours, rub down 3rd coat (w&d 1200) and apply lacquer


Does the above sound right or have I missed something?

Also, I seem to be good with primer (probably because the consistency is thick) but get runs with the colour.... what should I do? - Oh, and I'm worse still with lacquer as it often leaves kind of bubbles!

As always, any help / insights appreciated...
 

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RIP 31-12-2008
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Hi tazzy k, sounds as though if you get runs with the colour you are spraying a bit too close to the part especially if using an aerosol, also you need longer than 24 hours before applying the clearcoat and again not too close when spraying.
Regards Leroy
 

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Spraying Door Mirror

Oops TazzyK - Looks like you forgot to carry out one vital operation - getting rid of the silicone - the bubbles in the laquer are probably caused by a reaction to the silicone on the plastic - all plastic components either contain silicone or a have it applied to the surface during manufacture - its allows the plastic to be removed from the mould. It can be extrememly difficult to get rid of (ask any spray painter - tears will flow at the mere mention). It has a nasty habit of permeating into the paint - and once in you can't get it out. Good spray painters clean first with anti-silicone cleaning fluid (no it ain't cheap).. Failing that they can also add a special silicone to the paint - which reduces any chance of reaction (normally two alike substances won't react to eacj other. Additionally are you using two-pack paint or the straight air-dry stuff. I suggest you wait until the paint is well hardened before trying again - place it somewhere warm for 24 hours - yeh professonal painters have special infra-red lamps and ovens for the job - that's why painting cars is not cheap. Rub down with 200-300 grit paper - don't use too fine a paper as the paint needs somthing to grip onto. Whe spraying hold the paint nozzle 9-12 inches from the surface - apply thin light coats and allow to dry throughly before the next - a handy tip is to warm the surface gently using a hairdryer each time before you spray. Build the coats up gradually until you get the desired finish - don't hurry it. My mate is a car sprayer by trade and he even has probs., - especially during cold damp weather.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks leroy / madnoel.

I haven't actually painted this apart from primering it. Just generally when I have tried spray painting things I have had the above problems lol.

Silicon hopefully should not be a problem becuase this mirror was already painted - I'm just changing the colour.

I will be a 2-pack colour that I will be using.

I will bear in mind leaving it longer than 24 hours to cure properly, especially in this damp weather.

Thanks guys
 

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i've got the same operation to do on our espace.

Have you took the old one off yet?

i havent looked how to do it yet.;)
 

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Door mirror

Hi Tazzy - you didn't say it was already painted. The most likely problem is that is was polished using a car polish and most will contain silicone - thats probably where the prob started. All the rubbing down in the world won't shift the darn stuff - it needs to be cleaned first -before attempting any work. Give it a goood heating up with a hairdryer a few times that will ensure the paint is hard right through - you can then start from scratch - prime it first ensure it is hardened - rub down very lightly with 400 or finer paper and then apply colour coat ,building it up in layers until it looks even in colour and texture. When hardened apply the laquer coat again take you time - spray on in light coats building it up until you have a nice finish - resist the temptation to lay it on thick - it will only run. Warning do not rub down the colour coat before applying laquer. I know it can be a long slow process for the DIY'er. We dont have the equipment or the accelerators available to the profesional. Paintin gin a warm dry atmospere wil make it much, much easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i've got the same operation to do on our espace.

Have you took the old one off yet?

i havent looked how to do it yet.;)
Espaced, I haven't taken the old mirror off yet, but I think it's held on by a few torx screws under the bonnet and some (usually 3) behind the triangle bit of the front window.

Once it is off, the covers are held onto the mounting by a million small torx screws. If I remember correctly, you need to remove the glass, and remove the screws behind it to gat the mirror cover off... careful though as there is one screw that is not clearly visible and so you might be tempted to force the cover of and break it.

With the cover off, you can then remove the 2nd half of the cover. This also has one hidden screw which is even more difficult to access as you have to prise it open to see it and gain acess to it, although you don't have to remove this screw completely, just loosen it.

Yoou have to 'manouver' this part of the cover off over the mirror bit BUT it won't come off until you take off the motor behind the mirror (a further 3 screws). Hope that helps.

I'd love to say 'refitting is the reverse to removal' but I haven't got that far yet :rofl:


Hi Tazzy - you didn't say it was already painted. The most likely problem is that is was polished using a car polish and most will contain silicone - thats probably where the prob started. All the rubbing down in the world won't shift the darn stuff - it needs to be cleaned first -before attempting any work. Give it a goood heating up with a hairdryer a few times that will ensure the paint is hard right through - you can then start from scratch - prime it first ensure it is hardened - rub down very lightly with 400 or finer paper and then apply colour coat ,building it up in layers until it looks even in colour and texture. When hardened apply the laquer coat again take you time - spray on in light coats building it up until you have a nice finish - resist the temptation to lay it on thick - it will only run. Warning do not rub down the colour coat before applying laquer. I know it can be a long slow process for the DIY'er. We dont have the equipment or the accelerators available to the profesional. Paintin gin a warm dry atmospere wil make it much, much easier.
Thanks for that madnoel.... so I DEFINITELY don't rub the last coat down before lacquering it? I didn't think I should, but I'm almost certain thats what the bodyshop guy did / told me when he sprayed my bonnet on my other car.

Also, do i rub down between lacquer coats?
 

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:beer: cheers Tazzyk, i opened the box and the lot was there, i can see all the little torx screws.
How do you get the glass/mirror out?
 

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Painting mirrors

Hi Tazy - normally painters don't rub down after the colour coat has gone on unless there has been a prob - I wouldn't advise it as it is usually quite thin and you could rub right through to the primer. Rubbing down between coats of laquer is not advised as you are likely to introduce specks of dirt, etc. Remember modern paint systems are basically an almost a matt colour covered with a layer of laquer to seal it and give it a nice gloss. When painting large body panels the slightest imperfections are very noticable but this should'nt be a problem on a small area such as a door mirror. Modern painters work in areas that are heated to the correct temperatures and are air-conditoined with suitable extraction systems to minimise the risk of dirt and runs, etc. The top companies even have paint kitchens (as they are called in the trade) - this is a separate area in which they can prepare and mix the paint and additives - it has become an exacting science over the years. When doing it yourself don't expect to get the same results as a professonal - its just not possible. just take your time and paint in a warm dry atmosphere if possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks madnoel... will update the thread with the final results. Just ordered the paint which should be here for saturday - £15 a can! Seems nobody's ever ordered one before the chap told me - and I don't blame them!

Espaced, I don't know what the correct method is, but I just pressed the mirror into one corner (top outer) and pullit outwards from the other corner (bottom inner).

Its held onto the motor thing with little clips, so you need to be carefull that you don't break it. I broke a couple but it will fit back on.

On my Laguna, it came off really easy when a passing car smacked it! luckily my window was down and I caught it!
 

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:driving: right i'll give it a go when i get around to it.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, the mirror has turned out beautifully so far, even though I do say so myself, but I couldn't have done it without all the advice given to me, especially by VelSatisfled who I PM'd.

I just hope I don't spoil it when I try to lacquer it tomorrow!
 

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Just remember to take your time, and all will be well.

Glad to have been of help.

Paul:)
 

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Painting Door mirror

Hi – RichardMS – looks like the last laugh is on me – check out the attached link – the additive is called anti-fisheye in the trade. DOH:rofl: Click on the link and its about half-way down the page - its even available on Ebay
Whats New Wrapper
 

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Hi – RichardMS – looks like the last laugh is on me – check out the attached link – the additive is called anti-fisheye in the trade. DOH:rofl: Click on the link and its about half-way down the page - its even available on Ebay
Whats New Wrapper

Yes we used to use anti - fisheye additive when spraying Lacquer on furniture.

Regards

Ottoman
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Well guys, you'd be pleased to know the jobs a good 'un.... in fact I've really impressed / outdone myself! :rofl:

I got a couple of drips with the lacquer which started because I think the can was faulty and it started 'spitting'.

Anyway, once the first coat had dried, I used a bit of soapy water and 1200 wet and dry to very gently rub them out - very very gently.

Have since done tow more coats of lacquer and have left it to dry.

A slight down side is that, even though it felt dry to touch, I got a thump print in the lacquer now as i tried to pick it up! It won't show as it's on the underside but you live and learn...

Will post some crappy pics off my mobile when I fit it :d

Thanks to everyone for the advice.
 
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