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Discussion Starter #1
:surrender Help!
I have a Laguna II and its being a pain! I have an annoying spring like clunk whenever I turn left of right. I have dropped the subframe and replaced the steering ball joints (were dry as a bone and utterly shafted). For good measure, I ground off the lower ball joints and replaced those. Trackrod arms were nice and tight, so I left them. suspension drop links were also good. I cannot see any cracks in either spring and the car doesn't make the noise when suspended. I'm thinking suspension top mounts. Is this a common Laguna II failure? I have checked the bearings but this only happens when I turn. I have also checked the driveshafts. There is a small amount of play in one and absolutely none in the other. Help me! i'm stumped:crazy:
 

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:surrender Help!
I have a Laguna II and its being a pain! I have an annoying spring like clunk whenever I turn left of right. I have dropped the subframe and replaced the steering ball joints (were dry as a bone and utterly shafted). For good measure, I ground off the lower ball joints and replaced those. Trackrod arms were nice and tight, so I left them. suspension drop links were also good. I cannot see any cracks in either spring and the car doesn't make the noise when suspended. I'm thinking suspension top mounts. Is this a common Laguna II failure? I have checked the bearings but this only happens when I turn. I have also checked the driveshafts. There is a small amount of play in one and absolutely none in the other. Help me! i'm stumped:crazy:
I had this exact same problem. If it turned the wheel left or right i'd get a clunk. Mine turned out to be a dried out strut bearing which was causing the spring to jump along instead of moving smoothly and causing the clunks everytime it jumped. Best way to check is to have somone turning the wheel back and forth with you sticking your head in the wheel arch.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, that's what I'd suspected. I apologise also for typing Hutwatkins in another thread. Bloomin' Lagunas heh?
 

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Changed mine a couple of weeks ago for the same reason not a hard job until you allow the drive shaft to pop out of the box like I did ball ache to refit.Problem cured though.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Have got new bearings now after a major squabble with the motor factor. Am going to do post shortly.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes, they are an SKF part, Number is VKDA 35619T. They come as a pair. However, am not going to now do a photographic how to as I sold the car today!
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
This is how to do it, (sorry, no photos)
1. Chock the rear wheels,
2. Jack up the car and support on two axle stands and remove the front wheels. (Take note of which wheel goes which side. Put the wrong one on and the car will not drive!!!!!)
3. Remove the two plastic trim screws either side of the struts in the engine bay. (Be patient and they'll come off easily). Pull back the weather strip and lift back the plastic cover.

4. The strut has one nut (I think 20mm -Can be done with a large spark plug socket) and two 13mm bolts. Undo and store safely)

5. In the wheel arch, there are two 20mm bolts holding the strut to the hub. Soak these with WD40, taking care not to spray the discs. Then, using your plug socket, unscrew the nuts. These will be tight.
6. Top tip!!!! Put a jack underneath the lower ball joint to support the hub. If you let the hub slip, you car accidently drop out the driveshafts!!!!
7.The bolts will still be in place because they have locating splines on them. Put the socket on and turn them just until they 'give'. you can then tap them out with a solf hammer or mallet.

8. The final bolt to remove is the anti roll bar droplink. This is a 16 mm nut and requires a spanner and allen key. Hold the threaded rod with the allen key and slowly work the nut back and forth to remove. Take your time as these can be stubborn and require liberal dosings of wd40.

9. The strut is now free and can be removed from the car. take care not to hit the wheel arch is you go.

10. Lock the strut in a vice by its mounting point using an appropriate piece of wood between the blades and not on the shaft. Using spring compressors, retract the spring. You should now be able to push back the bearing/ mount assembly to reveal a 17mm nut. Using an allen key to hold the shaft in place, unscrew using a spanner. You will now be able to lift off the bearing and rubber mount. Refitting is the reversal of removal.

Remember to fit new locking nuts all the way round.

Warning - We are not stupid on here but removing springs can be lethal. Don't use any home made tools buy a decent set of spring compressors.

Refer to Haynes or other manual for torque settings
 
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