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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

I have a Toyota Corolla verso SR 2.2 d4d. It's been acting a bit strange. I have hardly any heat through the vents and the engine sound seems to have changed. I mean it sounds like it's not warmed up properly.

I started the car earlier and let it idle for 15 mins and it only got up to about 40 oC. Not sure if that's normal? Also the top hose was getting gradually warm and the 2 hoses into the heater matrix were about the same temperature too. Shouldn't the top hose and matrix hoses be cold until 82 oC when the thermostat opens?

After a 15 minute drive it got upto about 85 oC.

Any help would be really great as I was gonna pick up a thermostat tomorrow and change it.
 

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By the sound of it, you have it right, duff stat, swap it.

Top hose getting warm gently with the rest of the engine and heater hoses is a classic symptom.
Heater hoses are direct to the engine so should warm up with it.
Top hose is blocked by the thermostat until engine up to temp at which point coolant flow can go into the radiator and cool. Should stay cold until thermostat opens

Diesels do take a long time to warm up, especially big diesels and especially on tick over
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
By the sound of it, you have it right, duff stat, swap it.

Top hose getting warm gently with the rest of the engine and heater hoses is a classic symptom.
Heater hoses are direct to the engine so should warm up with it.
Top hose is blocked by the thermostat until engine up to temp at which point coolant flow can go into the radiator and cool. Should stay cold until thermostat opens

Diesels do take a long time to warm up, especially big diesels and especially on tick over
Thanks a lot mate, I have asked lots of places and you are the first person to give me a decent and informative answer.

I have a 20 mile 40 minute drive to work and the heaters barely get warm after that even. Well as soon as I increase the blower speed it gets cooler like it can't keep up. Gonna grab a stat and change it tomorrow with new coolant and go from there.
 

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40 minuts should have been toasty...just maybe not for the first 10 miles.
For comparison, went out today in my Kia (2.9TDI)
About 4 miles to B&Q, gauge moved a fraction off cold, feeling warm air.
Then up to Toolstation, about another 4 miles...gauge about halfway to normal, plenty of warm air.
Then home, turned heater down on the way back.
My Qashqai would have been up to temp before getting to B&Q

Not sure what value your stat would be but if reading temps, would expect normal around high 80s or low 90s
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
40 minuts should have been toasty...just maybe not for the first 10 miles.
For comparison, went out today in my Kia (2.9TDI)
About 4 miles to B&Q, gauge moved a fraction off cold, feeling warm air.
Then up to Toolstation, about another 4 miles...gauge about halfway to normal, plenty of warm air.
Then home, turned heater down on the way back.
My Qashqai would have been up to temp before getting to B&Q

Not sure what value your stat would be but if reading temps, would expect normal around high 80s or low 90s
Yeah that sounds about right, My stat is 82 degrees. So even after a 15 minute idle and 20 min drive it was only 85. I will get back when I have changed it to say if it works because it may help someone else who reads this.
 

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I'm lurking here as I'd be interested to know the cost of the Toyota thermostat and how difficult the job is ..... because .... I'm currently doing it on our Clio (details on a separate thread for that).
:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm lurking here as I'd be interested to know the cost of the Toyota thermostat and how difficult the job is ..... because .... I'm currently doing it on our Clio (details on a separate thread for that).
:)
The thermostat cost about £16 from GSF. I bought new coolant to go in as well. I'm waiting for it to arrive early next week, then I will get it done Thursday. I will grab a few pics and update when it's done.
 

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Where can I find out if there is any special procedures? Autodata?
Hunt the web?
I've had a quick look on YouTube but all seem to be for petrol burners.
But nothing fancy as far as I can see.
TBH Toyota usually keeps things simple so should not be any issues.

It's just always worth looking about with a new(to you) car.
I got caught on a Peugeot 406.... the filling point is below the heater, you need to use a "special tool" which is basically a funnel to raise head height above the heater or you cannot fill the system... a cut down soft drinks bottle and a bit of duct tape worked BTW.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hunt the web?
I've had a quick look on YouTube but all seem to be for petrol burners.
But nothing fancy as far as I can see.
TBH Toyota usually keeps things simple so should not be any issues.

It's just always worth looking about with a new(to you) car.
I got caught on a Peugeot 406.... the filling point is below the heater, you need to use a "special tool" which is basically a funnel to raise head height above the heater or you cannot fill the system... a cut down soft drinks bottle and a bit of duct tape worked BTW.
Ok thanks, I did try and hunt around for info and asked on Toyota groups etc but I haven't had much luck. It does seem pretty straight forward from first glance and a few similar engine videos.

I only worry about making sure there is no air lock afterwards, but I am pretty capable and I will most likely get it done correctly. Plus I also don't wanna get coolant in my eyes lol.

I was going to just change the thermostat, but 100k is supposed to be a coolant change on this car and I doubt it has been changed. I am at 107k. So I might as well change it.
 

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I was going to just change the thermostat, but 100k is supposed to be a coolant change on this car and I doubt it has been changed. I am at 107k. So I might as well change it.
I work on if I am not sure of age or strength, I change it.
Ever since my first car, that I bought on a freezing winter's evening and was assured anti freeze was good.
Next morning had a frozen and bust radiator.

Remember that coolant ages.
2-3 years for older Glycol based
5 years for OAT types.
Older stuff may still give some protection against freezing but the corrosion inhibiters are shot
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok, thank you, I've now done the Clio one, details here (I borrowed someone else's thread !) Cost of Clio thermostat was £100 :mad:
Oil in water bottel | Page 2 | Independent Renault Forums
Bloody hell, That's a lot for a thermostat, but hopefully you have saved yourself potentially more. My thermostat arrived today so just gotta find time to fit it. Hoping Thursday as no work. I don't like driving it around like it is.

I am lucky that mine is just a standard one with a metal housing, so I should be good to go and finally have some heat in the cabin!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Ok so I have an update. Dancingdad, I am gonna need your advice again....

I changed the thermostat today and I am not very happy because it seems like the previous owner has put water only in and it's rusty everywhere inside by the looks of it. I feel a bit deflated and disappointed in myself to be honest, as I had hoped this would have fixed the problem, but it hasn't changed anything. I spent 2 years at college to be level 3 qualified, and I couldn't even find the rad drain plug lol

The radiator was sat above the subframe so I couldn't see or get to it. What is this plug in picture below? is that something for the AC condenser?

The thermostat was near the bottom hose which I didn't expect, so I was feeling the wrong pipe when I did my thermostat checks. The thermostat I took out closed right?

I went for a 30+ minute drive afterwards on a mix of roads between 30 and 60 MPH and when I got back it was only at 81oC, That's not right is it?

Also the car was steaming from under the bonnet. Is that where I spilt coolant when I pulled the hoses out? I really hope I haven't made it worse.

Pictures all attached below.

I forgot to add that it seems like the coolant cap keeps working itself loose.

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Just some general advice, as I'm not familiar with the specific model of your car:-
That thermostat does look closed, not stuck open;
Pressure leaks can cause the problems you've been describing, so you need a new rad cap;
Spilt coolant takes ages to evaporate (I have the same problem) so yes it may just be that, from doing the job, not new leaks (unfortunately a "garage" may say it's still leaking when it's not);
Any leaks now can be found by putting a new piece of large flat cardboard underneath when you return from a test drive, leave it running for 5 minutes then switch off and leave the card there another hour. (weight it down so it doesn't blow away or rise up and catch fire ...)
The rusty interior looks like it needs a flushing compound, but I'm not too familiar with those.
 

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Where does the overflow from the radiator go?
Can you show a picture of the top part of your thermostat
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Where does the overflow from the radiator go?
Can you show a picture of the top part of your thermostat
Pic of thermostat below. The expansion tank overflow was clipped in above the radiator and left of the tank somewhere facing down.

This is maybe a stupid question but how does the system keep pressure with overflow being open?


Hand Finger Wood Door Button
 

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Radiator cap keeps system pressured, overflow works when to much pressure
See your thermostat , see the jiggle pin, always best to point this up, this will allow air to seep over the top makes bleeding easier..

What temperature should the thermostat start to open

If you are not losing water, and only issue you have for this time of year is its taking to long to get hot air inside the cabin, put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator until the weather warms up.
YOU really dont want to be messing with antifreeze and gaskets this time of the year ( Favourite time of the year for blowing head gaskets, )
Then come summer (or when weather warms up after xmas ) get some cutting fluid engineers/gear cutters use
Drain your system, and fill with this,, ..
ALLOW it to work its magic, about 4 months ( NO IT wont do any damage to your water works on your car ,)
Drain it out, dont worry about any residue it will mix with antifreeze now fill with antifreeze solution,
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Radiator cap keeps system pressured, overflow works when to much pressure
See your thermostat , see the jiggle pin, always best to point this up, this will allow air to seep over the top makes bleeding easier..

What temperature should the thermostat start to open

If you are not losing water, and only issue you have for this time of year is its taking to long to get hot air inside the cabin, put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator until the weather warms up.
YOU really dont want to be messing with antifreeze and gaskets this time of the year ( Favourite time of the year for blowing head gaskets, )
Then come summer (or when weather warms up after xmas ) get some cutting fluid engineers/gear cutters use
Drain your system, and fill with this,, ..
ALLOW it to work its magic, about 4 months ( NO IT wont do any damage to your water works on your car ,)
Drain it out, dont worry about any residue it will mix with antifreeze now fill with antifreeze solution,
That great info. Thanks very much.

I definitely did fit the jiggle pin facing up so that's good. The thermostat is supposed to open at 82C. The car seems to barely getting to that temp. After a 40 min run to work on mostly 50 & 60 roads it got to about 85C.

I am definitely keen to give it a flush after what I see today.

I am pretty sure I haven't lost any coolant since I got the car back in May. Well I put a little drop in about a month ago but it was already near where it needed to be.

I am gonna get a new cap next week also. As long as there is no major issues then I can live with it. Someone said about head gasket but wouldn't that be overheating and coolant loss etc? I don't seem to have any of that.
 
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