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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone got a way to ensure that you can get a good solid connection between the screw down battery terminals and the battery.

I have an ongoing problem which seems to be electrically related. My wife was going out this morning and tried to start the car and it got a bare glug and died. I got my multimeter and put the probes under the caps of the screw on terminals and got zilch !! The connections were good and tight but obviously one side wasn't making a connection.

I took the battery out and put it on the ground and then ran my jump leads from it onto the terminal under the bonnet. It started no problem.

Is there a way of getting a better connection with the current connectors or should I cut them off and replace them with standard push on - tighten with a wrench connections.

By the way, when running, the alternator was reading 14.45. Is this the correct voltage ?


C



I have now bought a can of Bardahl Electrical Contact Cleaner but
 

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Hi ChampionC

Battery voltage when running (14.45v) looks good it should dip a little, maybe down to 13v when you put the lights on or run the rear screen heater. A bad alternator would let the voltage drop below 12v leading to a flat battery.

Battery terminals are a pain,if in doubt buy some new ones,my preference is the clamp on type.

:) :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My woes all started when the engine started racing when idling when the heater was turned on. A friendly chap in a renault garage suggested that a voltage drop may be causing the car to rev up the generate more power. The battery has been going flat after running for only a few weeks and yet it's brand new. I was thinking that something was shorting somewhere and draining the battery but tonights "exercise" has just proved that bad cannections are possibly reducing the ampage rather than the voltage thereby stopping it from refilling completely via the alternator

Many thanks


Cormac
 

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Still a Petrolhead but also like diesel
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Hi ChampionC, I agree with Glenda .... replace them with the clamp type ... any motor factor will have them ... a couple of quid each .. well worth it.

Hope it helps :)
 

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Battery Probs

I havea 1994 Clio (diesel with a large battery) with round screw-on battery connectors - they are original - never have any probs whatsoever. Unless they are damaged give them a good clean. All battery connections are prone to corrosion which can be hard to detect. The lead terminal on the battery will go dark grey but if wire brushed will sparkle like new. Clean both connectors and battery terminals make good the connections and then smear them with vaseline - this excludes the oxygen in the air from causing oxidisation in the first place. One other thing worth checking is if the negative lead from the battery is got a clean connection to the body or earth as it's commonly known. As a matter of precaution and you have a meter check thec urrent flowing across the battery when stationary and ignition switched - in case there is an unneccessary drain - there should be a current of about 15 milli-amps or less when car is closed up - this is usually just to run the clock and keep the memory alive in the radio, eyc
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have replaced the connectors with the clamp type and so far so good. It's starting better and the plip's are working each time. Some of you may have seen posts from me relating to the high idling speed once the car had warmed up. A guy in a Renault Garage suggested that it sounded like a voltage problem but all voltages were fine. However, I now think that maybe there was more of am ampage problem with bad connections. I barely touching connection may still gave you the voltage you are looking for but may not allow the required ampage to be drawn.

Hopefully this will be the end of my problems.

I did notice this evening that the idle speed if about 1000 rpm. It may well always have been this but what regulates the speed. I think it should be in the 800 to 850 range ???


C
 

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Hi ChampionC

Glad to hear the new clamps have improved the starting,your right about the better contact at high current it does not take much to drop the whole 12 volts.

The higher idling speed i'm afraid is beyond me,could be a sensor or the ecu,but i will hope a more experienced member can shed more light on the problem.

:) :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Was ont again in the car this evening and all looging good.

My wife has confirmed that the car permanently idles at around the 1000 revs mark. What should the idle speed be - 750 to 800 or 800 t0 850 ? How could I reduce the speed from 1000 to the correct speed.

Having said this, the other half is more than happy to continue with the car running at 1000 so long as the days of running at 3000 or of the power dying are behind us


C
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I spoke too soon - my wife has just dropped her mum home after a bout of babysitting and the engine raced up to 3000 revs while idling. I will go for an Idle Control Valve replacement first of all. However, where is it ?

I have a 1.6 Scenic with Multipoint Fuel Injection. There is a guy selling them on ebay but I want to find the old one to match it up or maybe give it a clean


C
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well I replaced the terminals and everything has been fine - until now. The car hasn't been driven since Tuesday but suddenly yesterday, my wife needed to go out and the car was completely dead. My initial thought was that 40 amp fure connection under the bonnet but it turned out that it was fine and that the battery was only reading 2 volts.

However, it's a brand new battery from December. I have checked other postings on this website. I have run an amp check and it's reading 0.077 amps with all lights off. If I turn on the courtesy light it goes up to 1.1 odd so I reckon my amp testing is correct.

The Alternator seems OK because it outputs about 14.5 when the car is running.

Has anyone any ideas ?


C
 

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Still a Petrolhead but also like diesel
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Check the condition of the earth straps esp where they connect to the body (corrosion) there should be a couple, one from the battery or the junction near it to the body and one from the engine block to the chassis/body, not sure of the exact position on a Senic1, also check the light in the boot and glovebox incase they are staying on.

Hope it helps :)
 

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Hi Champion - I'm no auto-spark but I think your drain of 77miliiamps is too much - I think it should be in the order of 15 milliamps. Check all outlets are not in use (especially check if a mobile phone charger has been left connected). I had similar problem with an Astra I owned and after many hours of hunting I found the radio was faulty and was drawing excess current. It is also a possibility the battery has gone duff and would need to be load tested to check it out. How I was able to trace the fault was disconnecting the positive terminal of the battery and connecting my meter between the battery and the positive lead and then withdrawing each fuse in turn until I was able to determine which circuit was drawing the excess load. Hope this helps.:)
 
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