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Discussion Starter #1
Hi.
I have a Renault Master DCi 100 2.5 9GU and it's not well.
I'm trying to rebuild my engine after the timing belt snapped. I bought emanuals online but it seems to miss out a lot of detail like when removing rocker cover it doesn't mention that the injection rail needs to be removed or the injectors also need to be removed.
My question for now is how do I remove the injectors. I see some web sites are offering a tool for £600+. That seems a bit excessive. I also read on the web that there is a tool with a number mot. 1549 but I can't find a seller.
Thanks in Advance.
New to the forum
Based in Central Scotland
Kenny
 

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Diseasal injectors.... removal.

Flood the pockets with a good penetrating oil, leave as long as you can, topping up if needed, at least overnight.
Then the fun starts.
In theory......
Remove holding clip
Twist and pull injector and out they pop.
In reality.....
This may work but may need some extra persuasion.
Ranging from bigger spanner to twist, using the clamp upside down and hitting back end with a hammer (shock lever) to having to get professional help.
Everyone will have a horror tale on injector removal, often they pull out fairly simply but when they stick, they are a doozy.

Don't go out and buy removal tools, find a local removal firm (or injection specialist or engine rebuilder) who are going to have the tools and get a price for them to do it if you fail..... this is plan B, will cost but lots cheaper then 600 notes on a tool you may not need or only use once.

When injectors come out..... immediately tag them with cylinder number and stick them in a ziplock bag or large jar.... some diesel in keeps them fresh.... mixing them up and dirt are your enemies.
On dirt, plug each pipe when you disconnect, all of them...get some dirt in the fuel system and you will be buying new injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Job Done.
After sucking out all the dead wasps and other nasties, I saturated the area around the injectors with a 500ml can of WD40 costing £4.99 from B&M. Next I removed the torx bolts on the shoulders of the injectors. Number 1 injector seemed a bit too loose for comfort and gently popped out between my thumb and fore finger. The other 3 had to be wobbled a little to tease them out.
So all in all I saved £595.01 on this part of the job.
Off with the head next.
If anyone is interested I can post some photos of the complete job. Attached is the culprit that caused my grief.
 

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Nice one, you got the easy ones then :grin2:

Didn't want to say and scare you but last set I removed, on my Kia, three came out with simple twist from spanner on the flats.
One resisted all my efforts so took complete head along to local engine rebuilders.
Impact removal tool.... nothing.
Left head in heated paraffin wash tank over 24 hours and tried impact again....nothing
Hydraulic pullers, nothing.
Ended up having to have injector drilled out.
Good news is the guy is the sort who will not be beaten so looked at it as a challenge rather then a cost.... so along with head skim (needed) came to 100...... against another local "specialist" who quoted 60 for 1st hour and 60 per hour after...... Eeeek considering what ended up being needed.

I would recommend getting a set of seat cutters for instance UK 7PC Professional Diesel Injector Seat Cutter Cleaner Tool Set Carbon Remover | eBay
Just in case..... just needs a gentle turn to clean seal faces at bottom of pocket but can avoid resealing problems..... check sizes any set includes to make sure you have right size for your engine.
Vital...get new copper washers, DO NOT re-use old ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
10 weeks on I finally got my engine rebuilt. The head has been to the engineering shop to get a couple of valves replaced and a skim job.
All instructions have been followed (I think) for the rebuild including setting up the timing.

The engine is turning over on the key but just won't start.:frown2:

I noticed some air in the clear fuel pipe and it doesn't seem to be moving. Does anyone have any tips on bleeding the fuel or is it just a case of turning the engine until it starts. I used the primer bulb but the bubble stayed put.
Compression seems pretty good when I was cranking the engine by hand although I haven't been able to test it using a gauge.

All other suggestions welcome.

Thanks in advance
Kenny
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Can of easystart. (You have put injectors back in the same position as removed...)
Spray into turbo mouth, while priming and some one cranking.
Allow to idle once running for 20 minutes, . This will purge the system of air, and allow the thermostat to open slowly,
 

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Is primer getting hard when you pump it ?

If yes, disconnect fuel return pipe (from injectors) and prime until fuel comes out.... reconnect and prime again.

Crank and prime at same time is often the ticket.
Then easy start
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Easy start on order. It's dark and cold out there so progress is slow. Turned engine tonight until battery was flat. Bubbles gone in the fuel line but still no life.
Is it possible to be 180° out on the timing using the proper timing set up tools.
Thanks for the replies so far.
Any thoughts on Revive turbo cleaner?
Kenny
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I almost got excited tonight. A couple of short bursts of Easy start in to the air intake and the engine burst into life.... for almost a second. It sounded reassuringly smooth. Repeated the process a few times over next 20 minutes until the battery was flat again. Hooked up the car to the the van with jump leads and got a few more spurts but in the end I reckon I have a fuel supply problem now.
Primer bulb was firm for a moment then when fired up it went like a wet fart again. Over the half hour or so I only managed max of a couple of seconds of engine life with the help of easy start.
Tomorrow night I'll disconnect and test all the fuel lines and check for tightness and blockages.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Going to ask, so please dont take this the wrong way, did you use timing tools to set cams at correct position, ..
Square at/on the back cam, and round/half moon at/on the front cam.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeap, followed instructions to letter. Rotated tensioner anti clockwise, rotated crank clockwise two turns and rotated tensioner clockwise to correct position checking both pointer on tensioner and guide on timing tool.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Cam sensor plug back on, .
Have used over half a can of easystart to get an engine to run on its own volition before now, its getting all 4 injectors to start opening again.
Were you firing in short bursts of easy start to keep it going, or just a spray then stopping.
If just a spray then stopping, not a cat in hell, its constant bursts to keep it running..
You are after a build up of pressure, for the pump, then a build up for the injectors..
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Done loads of reading on easy start and was a bit concerned about using too much so yes it has been short bursts.
Injectors have been on a work bench for 12 weeks so could do with a proper clean I guess. They were sealed and labelled and went back in to correct seats.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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NEVER EVER known Easystart damage an engine, and have used it on all non starters and cars where the fuel lines have been opened.
There was a false rumour going around that the engine would get addicted to easy start, and not run with out it.
Load of horrlicks,
Go on the Easy start web site, under HOLT'S , ..
Brake and clutch cleaner is not as aggressive, as in engine will run at a lower RPM on it, but not by much, and is cheaper to buy.
If I had brake and clutch cleaner, and because I had run out of Easy start would use it, but only if I had ran out.
 

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IIRC one of our more learned members reckoned that filling injectors with easy start before connecting fuel lines helped free off injectors that may have dried out....

Was it you Ourkid ?
 

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Always do it Pete, never even thing about it, always seems to work.
No, not got shares in ES, but it works so well and for £3.50p a can, cannot see the point in making an engine work hard ..

Seems all diesels dont like to stand for any length of time, its like everything locks up, ..
 

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Always do it Pete, never even thing about it, always seems to work.
No, not got shares in ES, but it works so well and for £3.50p a can, cannot see the point in making an engine work hard ..

Seems all diesels dont like to stand for any length of time, its like everything locks up, ..
Even the old DTI injectors could clag up if left to dry out.
Modern beasties with microscopic holes and micron tolerances have no chance.
One of the best tips I was ever given was stick them in a clean jar covered in clean diseasal if they are going to be out for any length of time.

Your tip on filling with easy start will not harm and may well loosen of any clag...not tried it myself but would not hesitate if stuck.
 

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I've Read of people draining the Fuel Filter, Filling with injector cleaner & running it from there. HTH
 
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