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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

Can anyone tell me the toque specs for the following:
1) Caliper Slider Bolts
2) Caliper Bracket Bolts
3) Central Hub Nut

I also have a few general questions:
1) Should the bleeder valve be open before pushing the caliper piston back?
2) Are the Brake Rotors held on by the Hub Nut (Rear)?

Thank you.

MEGANE III Petrol 1.6 2009 5 Door.
 

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Super Moderator Technical Supremo Platinum Member
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Don't know the proper torque figures but someone will.
Caliper and slides, good grunt and hub nuts FT :grin2:

You do not push rear pistons back, must be wound back.
Yes opening bleed nipple helps when doing so.
Yes, Hub nut holds disc IIRC (memory may be faulty)

Why are you thinking on this Bradley, pictures you posted the other day didn't seem to show much wear ????
 

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Premium Member
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708 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Don't know the proper torque figures but someone will.
Caliper and slides, good grunt and hub nuts FT :grin2:

You do not push rear pistons back, must be wound back.
Yes opening bleed nipple helps when doing so.
Yes, Hub nut holds disc IIRC (memory may be faulty)

Why are you thinking on this Bradley, pictures you posted the other day didn't seem to show much wear ????
My front rotors have a bit of a lip on them so I'll be replacing them next year.

Which tool would be best for the rear pistons?
Are the wheel bearings pressed into the rear brake rotors?

Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm worried about buying rotors off eBay, but ECP and GSF don't sell them with bearings already pressed / ABS rings installed.
I think the rear pistons uses a cross shape but these wind back tools all seem to feature two circular pins.
What would you suggest?
Thank you.
 

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Super Moderator
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I'm worried about buying rotors off eBay, but ECP don't sell them with bearings already pressed / ABS rings installed.
I think the rear pistons uses a cross shape but these wind back tools all seem to feature two circular pins.
What would you suggest?
Thank you.
Find a Reputable Supplier.

The 2 circular pins, are designed to fit the crossed slots.
Done loads, still don't own a wind back tool 0:)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Find a Reputable Supplier.

The 2 circular pins, are designed to fit the crossed slots.
Done loads, still don't own a wind back tool 0:)
Great stuff, cheers!

Lastly, will my car require a scan tool once brake fluid has been changed (via tube and bottle method)?
I've read that some cars which use ABS require a scan afterwards.
 

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You've done too much reading. :frown2:
DO NOT do any bleeding with the Ignition ON.
Which is the only time the ABS will be active.

Regarding Fluid change:-
1) Siphon out the reservoir, As empty as possible.
2) Do NOT touch the brake pedal.
3) Refill Res with new fluid.
4) Forget pipe & Jar.
5) Use Pipe & BIG Syringe on each Nipple. To suck Fluid out, till clean. Starting at rear wheels.
6) If Syringe gets full, Lock nipple, Empty syringe, Repeat.
7) Do Fronts.
8) Test for good pedal.
9) DO NOT FORGET to keep the Res topped up, Don't want to be sucking air, do we??

Worked for my Tragic.
Piccy shows Why one should change it.
Despite being Ex AA, IMHO their servicing was [email protected] :frown2:
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #9
You've done too much reading. :frown2:
DO NOT do any bleeding with the Ignition ON.
Which is the only time the ABS will be active.

Regarding Fluid change:-
1) Siphon out the reservoir, As empty as possible.
2) Do NOT touch the brake pedal.
3) Refill Res with new fluid.
4) Forget pipe & Jar.
5) Use Pipe & BIG Syringe on each Nipple. To suck Fluid out, till clean. Starting at rear wheels.
6) If Syringe gets full, Lock nipple, Empty syringe, Repeat.
7) Do Fronts.
8) Test for good pedal.

Worked for my Tragic.
Piccy shows Why one should change it.
Despite being Ex AA, IMHO their servicing was [email protected] :frown2:
This is really interesting that you've suggested to use a pipe with syringe. Rather than pressing the pedal, once a pipe and bottle is attached. Can I ask why?

Thank you.
 

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This is really interesting that you've suggested to use a pipe with syringe. Rather than pressing the pedal, once a pipe and bottle is attached. Can I ask why?

Thank you.
Simples.
You can do it better & on your own. Without pestering the Missus.
 

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Cheers.

Would you recommend clamping the brake hose, just above the caliper, before pushing back the piston?
Better I suppose, as ABS allegedly doesn't like fluid going backwards.
1) Clamp Pipe.
2) Open Nipple. MOST IMPORTANT. :laugh:
3) Apply wind back & collect expelled Fluid.
4) Fit new Pads & Caliper.
5) Remove Clamp. IMPORTANT.
6) Whilst at this state do the fluid sucking, as caliper is as empty as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Better I suppose, as ABS allegedly doesn't like fluid going backwards.
1) Clamp Pipe.
2) Open Nipple. MOST IMPORTANT. :laugh:
3) Apply wind back & collect expelled Fluid.
4) Fit new Pads & Caliper.
5) Remove Clamp. IMPORTANT.
6) Whilst at this state do the fluid sucking, as caliper is as empty as possible.
Great stuff, thank you.
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #15
Hopefully someone can chip in with the toque settings. Internet search only tells me that the hub nut might be 280nm. Perhaps my local Renault Dealership will know lol.
 

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Hopefully someone can chip in with the toque settings. Internet search only tells me that the hub nut might be 280nm. Perhaps my local Renault Dealership will know lol.
Sounds Right. My Tragic is that.
But for Me, 2 Ugga Duggas with an Impact driver OR
Two Fat blokes on a 3 foot Breaker bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Sounds Right. My Tragic is that.
But for Me, 2 Ugga Duggas with an Impact driver OR
Two Fat blokes on a 3 foot Breaker bar.
I could do with a cheap torque wrench that goes up to 300nm. Halfords do one for £99. Sadly I don't have that kind of money to drop on 1 tool.
 
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