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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I recently bought a Renault Trafic Mk3 as my daily, intentions are to convert it to a day van and go on some adventures, albeit mini ones! Anyway, as someone who has only owned cars, and lots of them I'm used to a bit better sound quality. The Renault Trafic, whilst a great van, the audio sucks - even 'for a van'. So I set about looking for a speaker upgrade in the hopes that I would get better sounds, queue entering a rabbit hole of audio upgrades...

Thought I'd put something together to help other Trafic owners as I hear (no pun intended) that everyone slates the audio in these, so here goes...



First up, there are a few different headunits / infotainment systems you can get, I have a Sport edition so will talk to this mainly
There are 3 main infotainments, all come with bluetooth, satnav and the ability to set up some of the vehicles functions, so for obvious reasons I wanted to keep mine, below is a short overview of the units in the sport edition

MediaNav - The first unit put into the MkIII vans, this has a turn dial for volume and USB input is located behind the phone holder, IMO it's the cleanest looking unit but is technically not as good as the evolution unit

MediaNav Evolution - Much the same as the first unit, but USB is located on the unit itself (great positioning if you want your cable to obscure your screen!) However comes with improved SatNav & traffic avoidance, as well as speach recognition, so you can use siri from the steering wheel controls

MediaNav Evolution 2.0 - Same as the first gen unit, but it has CarPlay for iPhone and Android play for everything else. AFAIK this is 2019 onwards only


I have a MediaNav Evolution, so this write up is for that, but most of what I go through applies to all headhunts / infotainment systems



So, first things first, let's dive into the doors and check out the old speakers and refresh with new ones.
you'll need new speakers, speaker adapters and if you want to keep a clean wiring solution then a small patch lead also, also trim removal tools, torx20 screwdriver, flat blade screw driver, M6 nuts, bolts and washers and finally some new door clips, as you WILL break some.
I bought these from ebay, also listed for a Vivaro as it's the same van it didn't matter. Included was speakers, adapters and a patch lead.
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Installing them was really simple, I recommend watching this video on youtube, helped me a lot.

First up is to remove the grab handle, slip your trim removal tools in and start prying upwards and outwards, it's a sticky SOB but it'll come out eventually,

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Tips when removing the door cards, there is NO need to remove the window switches, wing mirror switch, or blanking plate. They all unplug and there's room to get in there without pulling the switches out, and if you do they easily break. My passenger side was filled with glue so someone has been in there below and already broken it.
Use a flat blade to press down on the switch releases and pop them out before taking away the trim piece with the switches in
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Once it's all off you have this,
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Watch the video as it explains well how to get the old (POS paper speaker) out. Once you've got it out, I'd suggest throwing it as far away as possible, but it's made of paper so it won't go far....

Be sure to align the new speaker adapters properly, they'll fit most ways but you should guide two locating pins in to ensure they're correctly aligned. Once you've fitted them, you'll need to reroute the speaker cable, at present it sits on the outside of the door, like this
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You need to push it through the hole that is conveniently situated next to the wiring harness and feed it down to where the speakers will be
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After that, I placed some heat shrink on the new wiring patch lead, put it on the to speaker and fixed the speaker in place
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Button everything back up and there you have it, new door speakers in your Renault Trafic, Vivaro, NV300/primastar!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
So, I fitted the speaker upgrade and whilst there is a noticeable difference between the original and new speakers, it's not that much better, the audio still lacks punch and it's distorted when you turn the volume up.

I decided it was time for an amplifier, I learned that the standard unit kicks out about 5w, no wonder the speakers are struggling! Especially if you've taken out the bulkhead, or open a window, more air makes a harder job for the speakers, so by doing either of those things you're basically drowning out what little sound there is.

I researched into amp upgrades, the standard unit has no AUX out so the only option is to inline an amp, it's not the best way to do it and if you want to do that you'll need a new infotainment unit, but I didn't want to go down that route.
i also hate butchering wiring harnesses, for two reasons, one it makes it a billion times harder when you come to do your next install, be it you, or the next owner, and I like to have the option to remove anything I put into the van before I do decide to sell it, and a butchered wiring harness is not something I'd want to try and repair. So, on to looking for a good amp that will work with the van.

I came across a company called i-sotec, a German audio company that specialise in plug and play kit. They have one retailer in the UK who uses them, Impulse Car. I gave them a ring and spoke with Paul, he let me know that it had been a while since they dealt with i-sotec and went through the (limited options) for the van. He mentioned a Pioneer GMD1004 amp that would work, but wasn't as powerful as the i-sotec unit I had enquired about. He did some looking and found an old stock new unit that he had, and as I was the first to enquire about it for a few years he gave me a good price including a patch lead I'd need to wire in the specific head unit I have.

So, on came Saturday and a drive to Impulse Car, picked up the amp and what I needed, they were a friendly shop but short staffed that day so didn't stick around for a chat and just got back on the road.

Back home, and this is what I had, the wiring I needed was all contained with the amp, just the extra patch lead I had to buy. This is quite an involved job, and whilst any competent DIY enthusiast can do it, if you're not patient it might be worth giving it to an audio specialist to install.
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So, first up, I removed the trim bezel around the head unit, unfortunately I didn't get pictures of this but some trim removal tools and it pops off. Make sure to get behind the black plastic and not the silver bezel as this doesn't come off without the black backing plate also.
Once off, you have 4 torx screws holding the unit in, and 2 holding the HAVC unit, you will need to remove all 6 and push the HAVC into the dash as it doesn't come out without being pushed back first. As it was all wired in with cables and wires, I left it place and worked around it. Room is limited around the head unit and cables don't extend far enough, so you'll have to wiggle your way in and around the limited space to unplug everything but once you have it looks like this
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I test fitted all the wiring before putting it all back together, I recommend you do the same as there's a lot in there, however literally every cable can only plug into the right connector, they're all shaped so you can't get it wrong
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The tricky bit now was where to mount the amp, I wanted it accessible for future upgrades but also hidden as I like the stealth look
So I popped out the front trim piece of the dash, this is done by removing the trim piece by where the passengers right foot would be, use some trim removal tools and it pops off, there is one screw behind that and then you ca pull the dash forward like so
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This gave me access to route the wiring down to the floor and in turn back up to the glovebox, going through the back of the dash is a minefield and I managed to severe one of the connects (single wire one so not too bad but annoying). After a quick repair I then fed it down the front of the dash and back up.
Despite what people say, the glovebox IS removable, 4 screws, two of them inside the glovebox and one either side. You can't get it out without pulling the front of the dash forward like I did earlier.

Once out I drilled a few holes to remove as much material as I needed I tidied it up with a stanley blade
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After that you can slot the cable through, connect it to the amp and refit everything
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Sorry for the lack of pictures on this one, but I assume less than 10% of people looking at this will try it, and as I was also figuring it out as I went, I was concentrating more on that rather than pictures. If I ever do this again, I'll be sure to add pictures!


However, pleased to say that the amp has made a big difference, sound is much punchier and doesn't distort as quickly. The amp still needs dialling in and I think I'll add a sub in soon, with maybe some rear speakers also - mainly because now I want to finish the audio project and 'complete' it to a point where you can only take it further with a custom (and above my budget) install

Hope this helps with anyone who was thinking of upgrading their audio, even if now you know you CBA :LOL:
 

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Thanks for your walkthrough. Have you had anymore thought on a sub? Would be thinking of an underseat active one or just a small boxed one run from the amp you have installed
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I do intend on fitting a sub as well, but there's a few questions as to which route to go.
The amp is powered from the headhunt, so i'm unsure if it's powerful enough for a passive amp, that makes me inclined to go for an active.
The other difficulty is the i-sotec solution is designed to be an all in one, therefore you are supposed to buy their sub with specific wiring. They make good gear but I don't know if it will all fit where I want as it comes from Germany special order.

Once I've done my research and decided I'll update this thread, but the ideal solution for me is to install some rear speakers, likely in their own unit behind the cab, and then hopefully a sub under the passenger seat, but I do want a leisure battery too, so space could be very limited!
 

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Thanks for your reply. I'm guessing if I was to run an active subwoofer that I would use the audio out on the installed and run a power supply from the battery to power the active subwoofer. Sorry for all the questions.

Many thanks
 

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I'm not sure where the thread is but @Nottnoc installed an active sub in his Tragic, ex AA van.
If you can locate it with a search (or someone else can link) it may give a few ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks @Dancingdad, think I found it here,

@Tosh1984
Yes, if you splice into the audio out you can feed the sub. Then direct power from battery. It's not the ideal or best set up, but in a van that is designed as a workhorse and you want to keep the sat nav, is the only option.
The I-sotec solution splices into the front audio to link into the amp, again not ideal but only solution. The advantage is that it's plug and play and can be reverted if ever taken out.
 
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