I have attached a few photos below of the assumed pump.
I have changed the priming bulb as that had perished and was letting air into the system just before the pump its self when parked on an incline. Not to mention the headache it caused me after i changed the diesel filter and tried using the one one that was damaged to get by till the new one came in.....
The reason I am looking at getting it swapped out is because the previous owner was pretty negligent with fuel/oil/service changes in the past.
Now that its in my hands I'm doing a general service every 5-7k Miles and I noticed on my first service the fuel filter hadn't been changed for around 5 years...
It was not in bad shape but looked rather nasty inside, didn't seem like any metal fragments or anything however.
The car has done a total of 153k Miles and was thinking of getting it changed just incase of any issues that may arise.
I have noticed that the car seems to be a bit hesitant at times and with my OBD scanner hooked up while I drive I noticed that at some points though some gears at wide open throttle the car wont boost to its normal 22psi it would either stop at 15psi or it will slowly creep up to 22psi. Then on some days it hits 22psi all day long...
I was assuming it could be limiting fuel therefor easing on the boost? I'm no mechanic just assuming though.
So any feedback on what could be causing the issue would be appreciated if you do not suspect to be fueling related.
If you need any further information ill gladly pass it on
Currently there is no info in your reports to warrant any expensive HPFP intervention .................... if you want to see what its doing, log the requested HPFP vs measured pressures and compare differences (while being aware the measured will NOT match eaxctly always even on a brand new installation)
I have noticed that the car seems to be a bit hesitant at times and with my OBD scanner hooked up while I drive I noticed that at some points though some gears at wide open throttle the car wont boost to its normal 22psi it would either stop at 15psi or it will slowly creep up to 22psi. Then on some days it hits 22psi all day long...
Many many possibilities here - vacuum plumbing leaks because of cracks/splits/degeneration of rubber on anything to do with vacuum, VNT solenoid leaky, gaga vacuum pump, sticky VNT in turbo itself, gaga vacuum canister on turbo .........................
Currently there is no info in your reports to warrant any expensive HPFP intervention .................... if you want to see what its doing, log the requested HPFP vs measured pressures and compare differences (while being aware the measured will NOT match eaxctly always even on a brand new installation)
Many many possibilities here - vacuum plumbing leaks because of cracks/splits/degeneration of rubber on anything to do with vacuum, VNT solenoid leaky, gaga vacuum pump, sticky VNT in turbo itself, gaga vacuum canister on turbo .........................
I have noticed I have a line that seems to be unplugged at the back of the engine, it looks like it comes from the turbo side of things and has a sort of curved line at the end that makes it seem like it should be plugged in somewhere next to the EGR/brake booster area. Ill snap a pc and hopefully that will help further but otherwise I have no idea.
Glad you picked this up LVR
I'd be very surprised if a pump or fuel problem existed.
But not that a turbo or control issue is there.
That pipe needs sorting and see what happens, I suspect it will cure your ills.
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Yes, I'm sure i can swap a vacuum line over but then I don't know where the other vacuum line is supposed to go if i remove one that is already attached to the solenoid
Sorry if I'm causing you a headache I'm just trying to understand....
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Worry about one thing at a time - sort the turbo actuator - it has to be done irrespective where whatever plumbing goes to .
Then follow any loose/unwanted plumbing to the source and start figuring from there.
Turbo actuator goes to the solenoid, vacuum pump goes to solenoid - fact.
Hi, I have checked which lines go to the solenoid and what I can see here is that the line in the very bottom of the solenoid goes to the vacuum on the EGR, and on the vacuum port just below the throttle body. And the upper vacuum line on the solenoid runs all the way down to the bottom of the turbo as can be seen in the following pictures.
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To me the vacuum pump should be connected to the bottom port on the solenoid there.
After having a look around i can confirm that yes the car has a single turbo.
I have marked and make a key of what the colors represent.
Yellow - From Top Of solenoid to the Bottom Par Of The Turbo
Green - From The Bottom Of The Solenoid, then splits to the vacuum pump and to the EGR valve side of things.
Red - Mysterious vacuum line from the top of the turbo going to no where (when the car is running no vacuum is being pulled from the line, assuming it needs vacuum source to activate)
Vacuum Line Connected to the bottom of the turbo is going to this, I have seen it when i changed the fuel filter and had to remove the inner fender liner.
After some research the vacuum line labelled in red that leads to nowhere for vacuum source is the Bypass Valve it looks like this, its above the turbo and not a part of it I suppose. However I still have no idea where to get vacuum source for it -
I dont know where the EGR got involved in all of this. The pink bit I marked here on your picture is the vacuum pump and it feeds via the small green nipple to the solenoid as well as the fat booster line.
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I can confirm that I have found the other solenoid you are referring to.
It's has a nipple out the top which is connected to the vacuum loop. But some other mechanic broke off the nipple at the side of it. I put my finger up to it where it's broken off and it's pulling vacuum. So I tired pressing the bypass valve vacuum line to it and long behold I saw the bypass valve close with my own eyes. So a previous mechanic must have broken it and didn't bother letting me know he had snapped it....
I got the solenoid removed and noticed that where the nipple broke off wasn't flush with the housing.
I sanded it down to make it flush and found out that the flint holder of a clipper lighter is just the right size inner and outer diameter of the nipple size...
Long story short I epoxied the new nipple on and connected the vacuum line hey presto! The actuator arm moved as soon as the car started No more check engine light and no more check anti pollution on the dash.
Pleased with it for now, if it holds it holds. If not I'll just purchase a new solenoid. It's easy to access and not expensive but thought I'd give it a shot myself first 😂
Thanks for your help once again to anyone who has contributed they're time to this post.
Much appreciated!
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