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Discussion Starter #1
Evening,
Bought a dci 100 master that's actually got a 2.8 lump and a valve shims bust and engines seized, nearly got head off but not quite to see damage.
Read through all links to the question and found no definitive answers, will a 2.8 dti master engine have the same block as an iveco or other 2.8 dti derivatives? doesn't seem to be any 2nd hand parts so looking at all options. What about the engine itself? Has it been done as I can't find any Info.
How much would it cost for someone with software to reprogramme a dci 100 / 120 lump or even what's the best engine power wise and reliability out there? I guess I could have anything out of the range but if got everything for the swap and pay for software change as seem to be a few options of complete running vans I could buy for less than having head reskimmed and then gearbox, jyst swap everything over...
Is any of above viable? There's nowt out there fir the 2.8 Renault or movano side of things.
Cheers.
 

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Super Moderator Technical Supremo Platinum Member
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Personally I would get the head off and work out the damage on that.
It may be that a couple of valves/shims is all it needs.
Same on the block, what wear, any big end play etc... if good, rebuild the engine in there and save a small fortune and heartache.
Google engine reconditioning and rebuilding in your area, they will be able to sort out if something like skimming is needed, crank grinding and anything like valves or shims
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi mate, going to my mums in morning but will try and get off before as need to know doing my head in, heads lifting off now just but been trying to lift out with intake chamber thing and manifold attached but think there's still more to undo and probs not right way of doing but literally undoing what I see attached. need to get under and at back of manifold.
I don't gave spare cash as such so the next 500 was meant to be for gearbox and materials but literally that's it then, so think that 500 isn't going to cut it unless I buy a £400 scrapper running which I've seen a few.. Wish I'd stuck to the good running sprinter I was offered with no mot now but had start of bad rust on bottom of doors etc as they all have.. Not looking good is it really, bugger....
Like you say maybe only a few valves etc glass half full for bedtime. But still what a mare...
 

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Tis the gamble we take on buying any motor.
Bigger gamble with an old one but IMO you are far better off with a decent shell and fubar engine then good engine with rotten metalwork holding it in place.
The only history you have with the engine is bad so understand the feeling that get shot and stick another in would be best.
But look on it this way, once yours is stripped, you can detail exactly what is wrong, what is needed and cost it out.
Maybe a 400 quid scrapper would be cheaper but in long run (or short) that engine could blow as well.
The one you have rebuilt won't and you will know it's good.
Not the easiest thing working on modern engines, way too little space. And the days of picking up a head from the scrappers and throwing it on before breakfast have long gone. But still all doable.

Your choice, just my tuppence on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Think I needed to hear that, that's the way my mind operates too or it has atleast with my cars upto now, whilst doing clutch recently I couldn't put anything back in till re enameled or looking new, I think long term and it wouldn't sit well doing all the work whilst driving up alpes d hues steepest Road on planet not knowing that everything's as best as it can be, jyst looking for a quick solution in head but the truth is it won't be needed till February. I'm weird I need to plan in stages how it going to happen, literally spent the last 18 months designing the camper / moho layout, time scales, cash spending and final amount to go away with too, it just messes up my plan, just need to work out another, simples.
Thing that's worrying me is that injector tip being snapped / looks like been sheared off, .again my limited knowledge is telling me that the pistons must be shot due as theres a 1/3rd of a shim somewhere and the injector tip. Bucketing down here heads not coming off today, need to calm tf down lol.
Like you say I have a good shell and comp solid and even with repairs will be a bargain.
Thanks for your reassurance. Have a good Sunday bud.
 

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Super Moderator Technical Supremo Platinum Member
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Official or unofficial way :grin2:
Official is full strip down and measurements, probably with crank between centres and a DTI gauge.
Unofficial is drop big ends off in situ after removing sump, get out shells and take a look. Significant wear is usually visible as would be any scoring or pick up.
Can feel wear before stripping if push and pull on con rod sometimes... usually would be heard before you can feel it though.
From there it is a judgement on whether to simply put it back together or rebuild with new shells or fully strip out crank and pistons and go to a rebuilder/machinist.
You can do similar on crank main bearings but TBH on a diesel, they are usually bombproof so unless I had any worries, would leave alone.
 

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I suspect that the sheared injector tip will be stuck in the head and may need to be knocked out or drilled, doubt it got into engine, likely sheared when removing though no guarantee or saying you did it.
Shim.... you are borrowing trouble.
Don't forget that the shim has no way of getting into cylinder (unless I am envisaging set up wrong) as it sits on valve stem... to get in has to go past valve stem or find some other way into the intake system. And then get past valve seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
More reassurance, you're alright you lol....
Was imagining the tip sitting somehow into the chamber as aren't they full of tiny holes going up the tip or is that the higher pressure dci? guess just pressed right up flush, the injectors literally just came out with no force at all, slipped out, was expecting to go through bottles of coke (if true, makes sense) and having mares. Didn't know was broke till I started noticing mine had no electrical connectors on top and looked totally different, penny started to drop derrrrr its not a dci, so wentl to look at part no on mine e and noticed tip. Hoping if it is as loose as the injectors themselves.
Thanks again...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
And jyst had a bloke on FB say he's got a good 2.8 master cylinder head and a pf1 box, don't know price mind, but hopefully a good en, so again options are starting covering diff bases. Now things are starting to make sense, it takes time lol I'm feeling a little less panicky...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Safe to say it's knackered :frown2:

Which models vary with their turbos, all of them?
My thoughts are take any engine and box as going to really struggle for 2.8 dti can't find any anywhere and get ecu sorted to match.
Doing this blind in head, anybody see any easier more cost effective ways around. Iveco lumps?
Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Safe to say it's knackered :frown2:

Which models vary with their turbos, all of them?
My thoughts are take any engine and box as going to really struggle for 2.8 dti can't find any anywhere and get ecu sorted to match.
Doing this blind in head, anybody see any easier more cost effective ways around. Iveco lumps?
Cheers
 
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