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Okay one more problem, the rear washer does not work but the wipers work, any advice
Does the front washer work? It all runs from the same pump and reservoir.
Does the rear washer make the required motor buzzing noise at the pump?
Depending in what's going on, you may need to remove the front right hand wheel arch and then (with an assistant) operate the rear washer whilst fiddling with the pump, i.e. detach the pipe and see if water is coming out. Same at the back end, in case it's just a blocked nozzle (it's in the high level brake light).
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
The diagram is good, that part should be there, I've never had to investigate it.
Well now I've received a quote for a K&N cold air intake system for the same price so I'm in two minds as to go the full hog with the bottom resonator kit or not.


I suppose the K&N filter system will make the engine louder, not what I want but will it have an affect on the fuel consumption. This is the kit for the Clio 3 1.6l


Coil Material property Auto part Font Gas
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
It slots into another pipe that should be there, I'm not sure where it comes from but it disappears downwards into the engine bay, I guess it's for hot air when the system needs it.
This is the diagram of the bottom resonator which I don't have and don't intend to replace either. Seems like these resonators are for you guys in Europe where the water freezes.
This is what I've done with the top resonator, tossed it and duct taped the three inlets and the car is running perfectly. Smooth cold air flow to the air filter box and to the throttle body, not much more you can ask for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
The only reason why I asked about the resonator was that there was a post about the harmonic air flow like Beethoven that's so important :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO: for economy and power, turned out my problem was
two wires exposed on the coil that was shorting out :mad:
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
One more question, what causes the revs to not drop especially changing from 1st to second gear, don't tell me it's the resonator. Is it possibly a dirty throttle body?
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Looks like I found the answer to my question;


If you've driven a modern car with a manual transmission recently, you've probably experienced rev hang: the annoying phenomena where even after you take a car out of gear to shift up, the revs stay elevated instead of dropping to idle like they should. Well, it isn't some side-effect of a low-quality throttle body or heavy flywheel—that rev hang is engineered in from the factory to reduce emissions.
As Road & Track contributor Jason Fenske explains in his latest YouTube video above, rev hang in most modern cars with stick shifts is a result of manufacturers attempting to reduce emissions generated by the engine during gear changes. Why? Well, even after you let off the gas, there's still some fuel remaining in the intake manifold from the injectors that can get sucked into the engine off-throttle. That extra fuel causes a rich air-fuel ratio, which is bad for emissions.
Since modern cars have electronic throttle bodies, the car's ECU can delay how much the throttle actually closes, despite your foot being all the way off the throttle. The delay allows air to mix with the remaining fuel in the manifold, burning off any excess that might otherwise cause an undesirable, high-emission scenario. This throttle delay is what causes rev hang.
If you despise rev hang enough for it to be a deal-breaker in your next new-car purchase, we suggest going for a car with direct injection. Because direct injection shoots fuel directly into the cylinder rather than the intake manifold, there's no excess fuel sitting in the manifold between gear changes that needs to be burned off. As Fenske states, however, there's still a possibility some rev hang can exist due to other reasons. So make sure to drive before you buy.
 
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