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K-line No Voltage OBD ii

18K views 19 replies 3 participants last post by  lancs dave  
#1 ·
Hi everyone.
I have a problem with my 2000 reg Scenic 1.6 16v.
I've tried looking and searching through the forums but I'm not having much success.
If I've missed something please let me know, cheers.
I am trying to use a Chinese clone of the Renault Clip diagnostic equipment but I'm not getting anywhere due to there not being any voltage at the K-line pin in the socket.
I've pulled every fuse from the fusebox in the cabin and the fuse/relay box in the engine bay, all are fine.
All accessories, lights etc are working fine.
The wiring diagrams show the K-line wire comes out of the Engine Management Module coloured mauve then changes to orange, via a plug connector I'm guessing.
Does anyone know the location of this connection so I can test it?
Does anyone know the route this cable takes around the wiring loom to the diagnostic socket so I can check for breaks?
If anyone needs more info then please feel free to ask.
Anyone have any suggestions to what I can try next?
Any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated.
Yours Frustratingly,
Ian.
 
#2 ·
Take a look in the engine bay fusebox.

Unclip and lift the complete relay plate up and look for a large white plug.
Unclip it from it's holder.

The inserts in the plug are coloured.
Look at (dare I say it:eek:) the black one.

There are numbers but you need a microscope to see them.
Look for wires in this order and colour on one half of the connector.

B1= Red
B2=Beige (cream)
B3= orange
B4= Grey

Opposite side of plug
B1 =Red
B2= Grey
B3= Purple or Violet
B4= Red/white or violet

Diagnostic L line is B2
Diagnostic K line is B3

K line--Test continuity between diagnostic socket pin 7 and B3 ( both sides) in that plug.

If all good, test between plug B3 and engine management module ( Ecu) pin 56

L line is Diag socket pin 15 and B2.
This runs to Ecu pin26

If wire is broken between plug and Ecu, you'll need to strip the loom apart to check for breaks. Might look fine on the outside but wires can break internally.
Easier said than done but luckily the Ecu isn't too far away.
 
#5 ·
Hi again.
Just been looking at my car and trying to find this K-Line fault.
I have found the various wires previously mentioned and the white plug under the relay tray.
I have removed the large black plug from the Engine Management Module and when I look at pin 56 there isn't anything in the small hole where I would have thought there should be a small metal socket for the pin to go in to.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Ian.
 
#8 ·
OK you have power at your k.line so why are you going to ecu? are You trying to get can clip to work? is it showing any lights on the unit when you connect to car... ARE THE DRIVERS INSTALLED... WHAT version software with clip if its version 142 can you see it in device manager as a bosch alliance ..can you communicate with ecus ie abs uch... what is coming on screen are you using a laptop with its charger ,not just battery off laptop? as these clips use a lot of power and give communication problems As you can see just by the few questions ive asked i have no idea what your problem is Thats to say is it a car problem or a can clip problem...
 
#9 ·
Hi ours2012.
Thank you for replying.
The reason I'm trying to get at the ecu is to get at the wiring to test it.
My problem, as mentioned in my first post, is that I've haven't got any voltage at the OBD socket on the K-Line pin.
Hence trying to get into the ecu wiring harness.
I've since found the ecu but I cannot get the metal cover off the top to relase the wiring harness.
It slides back and forth a few millimetres but I cannot find a way to remove it.
If anyone can help with this please?
When I fix this problem and can use my Clip clone I will be using my works van as a separate power supply to run everything.
600 watt inverter to be able to use the mains charger for the laptop and jump leads to keep the battery powered up with the van running.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Ian.
 
#10 ·
Ok ...any chance you could reveal the fault to us as it might point us in the right direction ie whats wrong with the car that you need can clip to diagnose ,,,could you by any chance give the engine number so i can look at the right w....g d.....m as have these for a 701 704 706 708 709 and 712 and have all the power distribution points for you to check and earth points As you have said you have power at 16 with ignition off and power at one with ignition on.. 4 and 5 are earths so power is at the socket . .......can you connect to any other ecu?????power only comes in the socket from fuse 18 when ignition is on at point one on socket.... from fuse box 2 at fuse 21 a 60 amp fuse to fuse box one at fuse number 8 down to dlc socket to give the ignition feed at 16
 
#11 ·
Hi.
Right, the story so far.
My car is a W reg 1.6 16v Scenic auto.
My car went in to my garage 5 years ago and was started now and again but never went anywhere.
During that time I removed the cylinder head, replaced the valve guides, general de-coke, the head was professionally skimmed and reground the valves back in to their seats.
At the beginning of March this year the car was put back on the road.
The idle is a bit rough and when the car is warming up it can stall in gear.
Also there is a problem with the auto box.
The box is holding onto gears for far too long and when it does change, especially 1st to 2nd, it can be very harsh.
However when under hard or fully open throttle the changes are very smooth.
I believe this is down to low oil pressure.
I am in the process of changing the oil to the correct Mobil oil.
I want to use the Clip clone to diagnose the engine and box so I can put things right.
I don't know what series my engine is, 700, 701 etc.
I am trying to remove the metal cover off the ecu so I can check the wiring for continuity and fix any breaks in the wiring.
Once I have fixed the wiring I hope to do a Global Update of the car using the Clip after fixing all faults.
My first priority is to try and fix the K-line hence trying to get the ecu metal cover off.
Cheers for any help.
Ian.
 
#12 ·
autobox oil i take it Not sure ask on here could be a filter in the box (ask the question you might have to start another topic to get a reply).. If you have you will need to change this first these guys on here will tell you where to look. OK back to your other prob do you have power at these points on diagnostic sockett
 
#14 ·
Yes I am changing the auto box oil.
Unlike manual boxes and engines you can't drain ALL the oil out of an auto just from removing the drain plug. It's a long process I'm not going in to right now.
Mobil LT 71141 is the correct oil which I am using.

The K-Line on an OBDii socket is the COMMUNICATION line between diagnostic equipment and a vehicle's ECUs.
It does not matter what diagnostic equipment you have, from the cheapest code reader to a full suite costing thousands, it is all a pile of useless junk without voltage at the K-Line, Pin 7 on the socket.

That is the problem I am trying to fix, NO VOLTAGE.
Everything else is secondary until I fix this fault.
 
#15 ·
OK think i know where you are coming from K-line has less than one volt when you use a scantool.. Nothing in the car cares if the K-line is shorted to +12. The K-Line is not used for intra-vehicle communications. But a scan-tool initializes a communications session by pulling the K-line to ground. The K-line is supposed to have some voltage on it, but through a high-impedance source. If the K-line has "hard" +12 on it, something not right .HAVE you got a radio in it if so disconnect it from the back and then try to communicate with ecu
 
#16 ·
Hi guys.
Just pulled the radio from my car and it made no difference, still no voltage at the k-line.
Also noted there is no voltage at the l-line pin as well.
I separated the white plug under the relay plate in the fuse box and I have continuity between the plug and the OBD socket.
So I am assuming the fault is between this plug and the ECU.
Unfortunately I cannot get the metal cover off the ECU so I can unplug it and test the wiring.
How do I remove the metal cover?
Cheers,
Ian.
 
#17 ·
Hi again.
Got fed up with trying to remove the metal ECU cover so I've cut it off.
Checked both the K-Line and L-Line and have got continuity from the ECU plug all the way to the OBD socket.
The only thing I can think of now is that there is a problem with the ECU and that is why there is no voltage.
If I'm wrong please feel free to correct me.
Only thought of testing the ECU pin out AFTER putting all my tools away and got cleaned up, aahh!
Will try that another day.
Cheers,
Ian
 
#19 ·
Hi Again.
I read on several websites that there should be voltage at the K-Line pin.
You say there shouldn't be, so I'm a little lost at the moment. :confused:
I have got V143 Clip Clone software.
I've tried to install this but I cannot get past the registration patch so the software will not fully install.
I believe this is where my problem now lies.
I ran the reg edit crack first.
Then installed the software.
Then it says to NOT RUN the software until the registration patch has been run.
Got to replace RSWIN with the cracked version then run that then swap back to the original RSWIN file.
However I cannot get the reg patch to work and so cannot install all the remaining files when I first run the software.
I hope I've explained that clearly enough.
This is getting to be a right pain in the rear end.:steam:
Hope someone can help.
Cheers,
Ian.