This video shows my typical cold morning start following fitting of new battery ( non start stop van ) and new glow plugs.

 

Can you give the fault code or is it a secret
UPC = switching protection unit ( Underbonnet fuse box )

 

 

Well one is a brake switch fault, as this does more than put brake lights on
Would start there first

 

How does that effect a cold start issue?

 

It allows a starting sequence ,
You press the pedal, two contacts are for ( think its still after ignition) relay, so if the relay is fluttering then engine wont get a full signal, ..
Van does not know its had a new battery is another fault, and the stop start is part of brake switch fault

 

It allows a starting sequence ,
You press the pedal, two contacts are for ( think its still after ignition) relay, so if the relay is fluttering then engine wont get a full signal, ..
Van does not know its had a new battery is another fault, and the stop start is part of brake switch fault

Ok thankyou. I’ve googled the fault codes DF080, showing as cambelt dephaser but within the Megane section. After reading that issue it said it was a timing kit and then cambelt sensor etc. Is that what you would expect? I’m in the dark in this one so again any help what to do next is good.

 

Not got a petrol engine fitted Have You

 

No sir

 

Dephaser only fitted on petrol engines.
And the fault is showing in your UPC, not in the Injection system

 

Ok.
so what do you suggest I do now to try and resolve the issues?

 

Go for a brake switch first,
See if that helps,

 

I have since changed the battery for a new one,

This in combination with that DF080 and DF083 code makes me think you have a smart charging system where you have to tell the vehicle its got a new battery else it's going to screw-up on the battery charging process..............

I presume that screenshot of the Autel is off an MK808 or some such? ................ if so, when you replaced the battery did you use the BMS service function on the Autel to code the correct info into the BMS?

 

It’s not my Autel it’s my friends so I’ve no idea what model it was unfortunately.
The van is a business model if that makes any additional help? It doesn’t have start stop I know that.
Assuming it is the model you say, can you explain the process?
Thanks John

 

It’s not my Autel it’s my friends so I’ve no idea what model it was unfortunately.
The van is a business model if that makes any additional help? It doesn’t have start stop I know that.
Assuming it is the model you say, can you explain the process?
Thanks John

Something is in that case funny................ if the computers are properly configured it should not be generating a moan using those words referencing a stop/start feature at all and should also not be mentioning the configuring of the battery wear parameter.

If the tool is a MK808 like mine, and its up-to-date, then the service feature for the BMS is self-explanatory and guides you on-screen

 

I’ve been out this morning to try and start it and it wouldn’t start. Eventually after 5 go’s at starting it fired up, but really rough idle for about 15-20 seconds then normal idle came about.
I haven’t been able to get the battery programmed as yet.

 

When you get to the Autel, ask your pal to monitor live injection computer data - look fo the fuel pressure measured and demanded .................. watch for differences there - you need a consistent fuel pressure following demanded - my guess is you may find its way low during these "difficult start" episodes.

Last time you replaced fuel filter?

5000 miles a year eh ............... sure you have nice fresh fuel in the tank and not perhaps something with some water in it even?

 

Having checked through the receipts the fuel filter hasn’t been changed in a couple of the services so I’ll get that done ASAP. It was a ******* to seal last time we did it.
As it’s mainly town driving and van is usually loaded up, I always use shell or Tesco for my fuel, usually every three weeks it gets filled up.
I’m debating putting it in a garage as it’s getting beyond my skillset.

 

Unfortunately, this is going to be up to you to make the decision - sorting engines on a modern vehicle just about always requires a scanner to help you visualize what is happening on the computers ...................... and without it, expensive time and spares may get spent chasing non-issues

 

.............. thinking about ti some more perhaps you can possibly have a go at cleaning the EGR valve and seeing if it's free to move and not stuck eg open ............. though that would have caused some smoking

 

You don’t happen to know what voltage I should have at the glow plugs? As tested and only showing 9v

 

UPDATE AS SUCH:
Tested new battery to confirm 12v - 12v gained.
I’ve plugged multimeter into glow plug connections - only showing 9v when ignition on.
Traced cables back to relay, relay connection showing 12v but nothing when probing relay itself.

That to me say change the relay?
Failing that I’ll put in at a garage and see

Ran a fuel cleaner through tank of diesel.
Cleaned egr - I’ve never cleaned that but on opening up was very clear already.

 

So today I managed to get it connected up to a basic diagnostic machine albeit one that reads live data and fault codes.

No fault codes like my first set, this time was a P0380 so cleared and tried again and still came back the same. It’s booked into a garage on Friday so they can have as much fun in the morning as I’ve been having!

 

So today I managed to get it connected up to a basic diagnostic machine albeit one that reads live data and fault codes.

No fault codes like my first set, this time was a P0380 so cleared and tried again and still came back the same. It’s booked into a garage on Friday so they can have as much fun in the morning as I’ve been having!

that fault is glow plug issue , has this been sorted

 

Update:

Took the van in Thursday afternoon so the garage had it for Friday morning on a cold start. However weather changed and got warmer so problem wasn’t easy to fix.
Garage ran leak off test and all came back fine. Rough idle still there so they checked injectors on diagnostic machine and found to be running ok, however one of the cylinders which I believe was cylinder 4 had a slight discrepancy within its tolerances. They said cylinder 1-3 were showing -2 & then cylinder 4 was showing at 2. I’m not sure what the test was, they said it was within tolerance for the engine.

other than chucking injector and engine cleaner through and taking it for a blast on the motorway I’m non the wiser to what the problem ever was / is.

All fault codes cleared now too.

 

If those numbers for the injectors are the individual adaptations then its quite possibly normal - maybe anyway.

Those numbers should al add up to 0 - iow some negative and some positive but the sum of the 4 should be 0. These numbers are an indication of the ECU detecting it needs to tweak the injection times per cylinder in order to achieve a smooth running engine - positive values mean more fuel required than what the injector's coded/calibrated injection volume is on that particular cylinder.

Ideally, those numbers should be quite close to 0 if the engine is in very good condition .......... typically fractions only and not whole numbers.

One could try injector cleaner (Motul my preference but it depends what is available I guess) and again check on the adaptation figures after a tank or 2..............

 

Thankyou for clearing them figures up for me.
They said run this tank out of fuel as quick as possible, put a good injector cleaner through so I’ve bought a forte one which I’ve used before. They also said to stop using supermarket fuel and see if it helps using shell or bp premium diesel.

 

Hi.
This is my first post and I’m looking for help and advice on a problem my Master 3 has developed.
Over the past few months, the starting of the van in a morning has got worse and worse. Usually it would take 2 or 3 turns of the key to get it to start. Once it turned over it was like a diesel generator starting up, no smoke but a lot of blubbering then few revs and it idled fine.

I have since changed the battery for a new one, changed all 4 glow plugs for genuine ones and still the van struggles to start once cold ( overnight ).

The van covers around 5000 miles a year, I always have it serviced every year, new filters and oil regardless of mileage.
I have plugged it into Autel and it is showing no codes that are engine/ignition related, only one code for upc module.

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
John

Hi, This could be your timing chain or timing belt issue. Please walk in and get advice from private garages as well. Best regards Joe