[LvR]

I can read the following oxygen sensor values if they are of any use :-

Max Val O2 sens current (PID14) 0mA
Max Val O2 sens volts (PID4F) 0mA
O2 sens 1 volts (PID14) 1.27v
O2 sens 1 volts (PID24) 0.00v
O2 sens 2 volts (PID15) 1.27v
O2 sens 1 fuel/air ratio (PID26) 2.0
O2 sens 1 short term fuel trim (PID14) 2.0
O2 sens 2 short term fuel trim (PID15) 2.0

Also I notice a couple of new error codes in addition to the previously stated :-
U012182
U012187

Thanks.

Can you post up a voltage graph of the O2 sensor voltage behavior with the engine idling and throttle pedal untouched?

To me those values of yours are suggesting the poor thing is running super lean so you are suffering lean misfires all-over the place.

Forced to guess ......................power to the O2 sensor heaters is missing (wiring/fuse) or the sensors itself has an open heater element

Can you post up your exact vehicle code (oval plate or first 7 letters of VIN)

I would not bother with the ABS till the engine is running smoothly and reliably.

I have also noticed an occasional electrical fault when its raining where the dash and exterior lights go on and off whilst driving but I'm not sure if this is related to the misfire which happens whatever the weather.

This may be related to everything happening on the car so needs sorting urgently imo.

 

[LvR]

not even turning over for the first few times I tried.

OK - this is just me but we need to deal in facts only............... remove the subjective reporting.

There is absolutely nothing you can do with the crank sensor that will prevent the engine from turning over - so what exactly changed between "the engine not turning over at all" and later on? ( other than the plug for the CPS).

However clearing the codes and rerunning the OBD I now see P0302 instead of P0300 so I'll try swapping the pluga and coils with another cylinder and see what happens. Have ordered a cam sensor but not here till weds.

Since there is only a single A/F or O2 serving all 3 cylinders, the same gaga mixture "quality" is present in all cylinders, and because of that you will experience random misfires getting reported and the identified EOBD cylinder code jumping around.

P030066 - heated oxygen sensor 2, bank 1 -high voltage

As soon as you see this sort of message in combination with bad misfires and fuel smells you need to start there imo.
As long as the A/F or O2 is misreporting the true happenings on the exhaust the ECU will be clueless on how to do mixture preparation.

The model code contained in your VIN (AHB2) I just cannot find, so I am unable to figure if you have a simple O2 sensor based ECU or a A/F sensor based ECU.
Can you see if the oval plate shows a different model code that we can use please? (something like BCMx)


What to take from this all:

Its strange that you report both O2 or A/F sensors being stuck at 1.27V.................... while at the same time the ECU is complaining about P0300066 saying the voltage is too high on the downstream sensor only.

The goal now must be to figure what sort of sensor you have in the exhaust - it wil lbe either O2 or A/F ....................... if its O2 then the 1.27V reading is garbage and the sensors are most likely screwed ............... the amount of fuel injected is governed by these sensors so make them work/report properly and the ECU should be ok


Since you are already in the bowels of the thing can you check on the exhaust sensors - are they both 4 or 5 wire jobs, and do they have the same part numbers?

What is the scanner reporting for engine coolant temperature ?

P0138 is basically telling you it agrees your nose if fine - there is too much fuel present in the exhaust.

 

[LvR]

The sensor in the manifold has 4 wires the other 5 wires. I can't see any numbers on them.

I was afraid of this and my fear is now confirmed - you have some strange mixed logic ECU there - the reason for wanting exact model code.

Forget about the downstream 5 wire sensor till you have the upstream 4 wire sensor outputting believable values - ie - somewhere in the range of 0 to 1V ONLY
So - a 4 wire sensor is imo an O2 sensor and not a wideband A/F sensor - in which case that 1.27V reported on it is absolute rubbish - either you have an open heater on the O2, a wiring or power/12V feed problem to the heater element's 2 wires, the sensor is totally bust, or you have a mad ECU.

Easy enough to prove - remove the sensor from the manifold, plug it back into the harness and then see what you get on the scanner - you should see somewhere around 0.45V with the engine not running but ignition switched on ................ is this what you are seeing? ..............

 

[LvR]

I cannot retype the whole spiell again, but here is a guy with basically the same misery as you have - have a read on the progress and tests we went through there - just about all the theory on O2 management is included there too

P0130 error on Clio 2 RS 182

I've posted another thread elsewhere but have been low on useful responses, so apologies for doing it a second time here. I'm getting a P0130 code on my 182 - when I clear it, it returns almost immediately. The yellow check engine dash light returns also, but after a short drive. I've...

www.renaultforums.co.uk

 

[LvR]

I can't get the sensor out. It's in pretty fast so will have to take it to a garage. I'll update when I've managed to test it. Btw additional error codes now :

P11501C
P1153

I'll read the thread & Thanks again.
P

All pointing to O2 sensor (or something to do with it) issue

 

[LvR]

No - nothing to do with earth -if the reading is the same you need a new sensor imo................. if you know for a fact the wiring/connections are ok anyway

 

[LvR]

Replaced the pre cat 02 sensor. No longer seeing P0300 errors and car feels to be running smoother but I am seeing :-

P0135 - O2 sensor control circuit malfunction

So question then .............. the O2 you installed - original or aftermarket?

 

[LvR]

Know its going to be difficult to believe given your actions but the fact remains - if you don't have a power or wiring issue with the O2, you have a faulty O2.

As per the example of the poor guy in the other thread I linked to with basically the same measurement and problem:

Methodically now .................

Exactly same numbers stamped on the sensor

What is that?

What is the heater voltage you measure on the O2?

 

[LvR]

If the vehicle was with me I could probably suggest/try a few things simply because I have a set of tools and a bit of experience.

At this stage, you seem to be stuck and not making any progress.

Me? - I would say it is absolutely worth spending some money on a proper Renault speaking scanner - either buy one or beg/steal/borrow - the time and uncertainty wasted till now may already have justified the cost - I would suggest a Autel AP200 (white) because of very good experiences here already (there are others available as well)

So all I would try if I were you and without a proper scanner to guide you is to find the exact same engine/vehicle and hang a scanner off THAT ECU to see what the O2 sensors you have are reading under the same conditions - I am convinced that as long as the O2 is producing 1.27V in both free air and also when installed in the exhaust, any other faultfinding is going to be a waste of time. You need to somehow confirm that you have a known working sensor in your hands (and buying a new one is not necessarily the guaranteed way to do this since there are lots of BS being sold out there as per the other thread I linked to).

I asked before - what is the exact heater voltage you measure near/on the O2 sensor itself? - this is absolutely critical