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I would say so, only two things , alternator or under bonnet fuse box, by the side of your battery.
Alternator charges, UPC tells it how much to charge..
You know alternator that was taken off is good, BEEN TESTED....,,, only leaves UPC ..
 
Dear ours2012

I understand it but the fuses are in front of the battery, and i inspect the 4 big fuses and didnt find anything unusual. Thats completely understandable, the problem is in the UPC. But whats the problem because in the UPC cant find blown fuses, burning traces, or signs of water. It seems almost new.
What do you think about the alternator***8217;s exciter wire?! If I unplug, that isnt charging, but when I connect it the charging is correct. The wire is patched sometimes, so not seems too perfect.
 
Inside your UPC is a relay, its sandwiched between two pcb's this relay fails, and thats why the diagnostic is needed to show the fault code, ..

Nothing to do with fuses, alternator circuits are not fused, not needed, as the fuse would blow to slow/late and the alternator would already be damaged ..
OR should I say the Rectifying circuit ( diodes ) would be damaged..
 
Dear ours2012,

So need to change the big fuses despite to seen any damage?!
Or which relay have to inspect in UPC?!
Thank you for your help.
 

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NOPE those fuse are nothing to do with charging..
Nor are the fuses inside the fuse box ( UPC )..


If you follow the wire from the alternator, all the way up to the UPC, ( Ohms meter here ) you will see its not fused , , and by taking the fuse box casing off, you will be able to follow the circuit down to the relay
 
Just wondering if the fusible links connected to the positive battery terminal could be at play here?

I had a really weird fault with my Clio TCe last year where it would intermittently give a DF046 fault code (low battery volts) and go into limp mode on startup. The battery and alternator were tested and confirmed as fine.

The UPC was found to be dry inside. I was fearing the worst with the ECU being fault and got some good advice here that the UPC was likely the culprit. After looking closely at the circuit, I decided to replace the fusible links as they were only a tenner, and the fault has not reoccurred since.

Just thought I'd share in case this helps

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
Printed Circuit Board, = pcb
these are visible when the covers of the fuse box is removed, between these is a relay,, This tends to go faulty..
Would try and get a diagnoses on the car..
This will tell if an alternator fault, or UPC fault
 
Printed Circuit Board, = pcb
these are visible when the covers of the fuse box is removed, between these is a relay,, This tends to go faulty..
Would try and get a diagnoses on the car..
This will tell if an alternator fault, or UPC fault
Hi,

I've got this code on a 2013 Kangoo
DTC920F81 - UPC Alternator Link Invalid,
Battery light was on, so fitted new alternator but still have the battery light and the code

Any ideas?
 
high chance its the wrong alternator
nightmare these alternators are

The alternator is told to charge by the UPC (under bonnet fuse box )
So upc Measures how much voltage/amps are being used and then sends a signal along that line to tell alternator to start charging ( simple analogy )

So if that line from alternator to the fuse box is good, then its either the alternator, or UPC

No other fault codes on the car when it was scanned,

Why was the alternator changed ,,, Might sound a daft question
 
high chance its the wrong alternator
nightmare these alternators are

The alternator is told to charge by the UPC (under bonnet fuse box )
So upc Measures how much voltage/amps are being used and then sends a signal along that line to tell alternator to start charging ( simple analogy )

So if that line from alternator to the fuse box is good, then its either the alternator, or UPC

No other fault codes on the car when it was scanned,

Why was the alternator changed ,,, Might sound a daft question
Originally it was charging but battery light came on, so had the garage check it. It all charged ok they said, but Alternator is probably failing to bring on the battery light. So I've since replaced the alternator and still have battery light and plugged in to find just that fault code
 
Is that for the full car
Can you scan all the car , just to check that is the only fault
Would be saying drive the car with scanner connected here
And see what fault codes come up
Its clear fault codes, leave scanner connected and go give it a run
 
Is that for the full car
Can you scan all the car , just to check that is the only fault
Would be saying drive the car with scanner connected here
And see what fault codes come up
Its clear fault codes, leave scanner connected and go give it a run
Yes that's the only code I had,
Haven't run it down the road yet, I can clear the codes tomorrow and give it a try
 
Give us a clue,
Go on tell me ( I wont tell anyone Honest )
It obviously reads all the car, so its not a normal EOBD interface for you to pull a DTC from the UPC
 
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