Update, Engine fully rebuilt took me 3 days but I'm no expert. Runs perfectly again now hopefully continues like this. Thanks for all the advice. Much appreciated

 

OK I will do this today and post it. Thank you for your help.

 

Update on the situation! Taken head cover off and noticed the timing chain was slack, continued to remove cover for timing chain to find the guide runners has all worn out causing the chain to become loose also chain was not in time as the chain was able to slip even by turning the crank pulley by hand! Two exhaust valves on cylinder 2 was also damaged where the piston had hit them and bent them this is the reason for no compression!
I've ordered a new timing kit, new haed gasket kit, new valves. So turned out to be a costly issue to fix. Hopefully all the parts arrive in the coming days and I'm able to get it all back together.

 

You need to get a diagnostic on it while it's misfiring and note any codes. (Don't switch it off before you've read the codes) Has it had a diagnostic? It could be a faulty sensor (for example).

 

Hi sorry I forgot to mention the code the fault code is df060 misfire on cylinder 2

 

Personally, given what you already tried, I would think the individual cylinder compression values will be the right place to start.

If those are all close to spec and within say 5% of each other, the next step imo is to have a look at the mixture formation abilities of the ECU with a Renault speaking scanner.

What is the current LTFT (long-term fuel trim) value at idle with engine cold and just started and also with the engine hot - both cases not touching the throttle?
Get a graph or log of the behavior of the STFT and upstream O2 sensor voltage at idle without touching the throttle for about 3 minutes after start - post it up here and we can try and help.

Do not start replacing anything until it's possible to look at a justification and the logic around the motivation

 

Hi thanks I will give this a go. I did notice on the upstream oxygen sensor the readings was between 0 and 850 fluctuating all over the place.
Thanksn

 

Hi thanks I will give this a go. I did notice on the upstream oxygen sensor the readings was between 0 and 850 fluctuating all over the place.
Thanksn

The range seems ok, but post up a graph of the exact behavior seen under idling conditions only for the first 3 minutes after start and lets see why the ECU is struggling

 

 

 

A few images of the 02 sensor. Also car stinks of unburnt fuel.

 

The graphs you produced are way too short and course ...............

From what I can see however, your smelling unburnt petrol is not surprising at all

What is the LTFT value?

 

You are using Torque by the looks of it - that little app has probably the best logging ability out there - can you create such a log and post that in CSV format please?

............. or even use Access or Excel to produce a decent graph from the data

 

Hi I'm struggling to get a longer graph on my phone and my reader ect however the imaged I screenshot for the past few minutes all look the same I will try figure out how to get a longer graph. When you say ltft I don't really understand this is there any way you can point me in the right direction to find this info. Thanks

 

On the phone itself its a real b1tch to produce sensible longer graphs - you have to use the built-in logging ability of Torque, create a CSV file from the logged values and then produce a graph from that on a computer or tablet

 

Thanks I will give that a go now if I just select start logging for a few minutes would this give you all the information or do I need to select what it logs.

 

You gonna have to get to grips with Torque's logger - first, disable all the extra unwanted parameters (need time and O2 voltage only at this stage) and start logging at around 0.5 seconds interval for 3 minutes from engine start.

On Torque's website there are good primers on the use of the logger - sorry I just don' have the time to retype all of that

 

Here is all the background on using the O2 voltages for faultfinding

P0130 error on Clio 2 RS 182

I've posted another thread elsewhere but have been low on useful responses, so apologies for doing it a second time here. I'm getting a P0130 code on my 182 - when I clear it, it returns almost immediately. The yellow check engine dash light returns also, but after a short drive. I've...

www.renaultforums.co.uk

 

 

Thanks I hope this helps?

 

OK - that already is way more informative ................. what you have there is an O2 sensor telling you that because the voltage reading is constantly (effectively) high rather than following a near sinusoidal wave swinging between min and max values of around .1 and .8V, the ECU will struggle to create both reliable mixture and timing strategy for complete combustion .................... iow - the exhaust is both smelling and measuring super-rich (for background read through that link I posted where we sorted another guy with similar issues)

Question now is why? ...................... is this because of the inability of one or more of the cylinders to properly ignite the mixture and thus leaving residual fuel in the exhaust, is the ECU mad and doing this, is the O2 sensor funky and reading stupid values etc etc....................

If you switch on ignition and the engine is not running - what is the O2 sensor voltage?

 

Hi thanks with the car not running the o2 sensor is reading 0.4V thanks

 

Hi thanks with the engine not running the o2 sensor is reading 0.4V

 

So the O2 sensor's heater element is still working and is getting fed 12V from the ECU - good.

You said you were going to do compression tests today - results?

Next question - engine idling - what is the MAP sensor reading as a value - you need around 30kPa

Since both O2s apparently agree with the running rich thing (last graph you posted) you now need to confirm you do not have any air/vacuum leaks present. I would say get a can of easy start, and with the engine idling, start going around the intake manifold and spray every joint, seal, hose, sensor involved on that plastic intake manifold ............ any change in engine speed or sound will indicate you found the culprit area

Same for the exhaust manifold up to the first O2 sensor - any bad joint/hole sprayed will indicate by change in idle speed or sound

 

Hi thanks for this information, the compression tester I had arrive today was to big to get down in the spark plugs holes so I have to wait until tomorrow now to do a compression test when hopefully the correct one arrives. I will also do as you suggested with checking for vacuum leaks. Thank you

 

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Hi thanks for this information, the compression tester I had arrive today was to big to get down in the spark plugs holes so I have to wait until tomorrow now to do a compression test when hopefully the correct one arrives. I will also do as you suggested with checking for vacuum leaks. Thank you

If the scanner is reporting valid data, and the engine was idling and you not touching the throttle while capturing that screen, you already have your answer - ie - absence of vacuum .........................

Question is whether its because of a vacuum leak sucking in unmetered air, a mechanical problem like a a dud cylinder (rings/valves etc) or simply a gaga MAP sensor

That engine is, according to the MAP reading not sucking anything like it should (need around 400mBar or better to achieve reliable combustion)

 

Hi yes that was on idle. I will get a can tomorrow and spray all over and let you know.

 

If it was idling why so high? ......... should be around 750rpm no?

Is the throttle body properly bolted to the manifold and that seal ok?