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Timing Belt Change? (MEGANE III)

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Discussion starter · #101 · (Edited)
Thank you guys.

On the water pump, 2 of the 8 bolts allow coolant to come out once removed. Do I apply sealant to said bolts? Pump was sealed with sealant by the factory. New pump comes with paper gasket (Renault OE kit). Gasket or sealant?

My manual says to use "FRENETANCHE" on the same 2 bolts I mentioned. Thoughts?
 
#102 ·
Telling you to loctite the two bolts in place basically..
cover the water pump gasket with grease , fit water pump and put the bolts in.. all bolts until you feel the bolts pinch slightly
Take 1 and 5 back out, degrease them, and the holes ( brake and clutch cleaner in a spraycan for this) dab of loctite on each put them in and tighten all bots up..
Fill reservoir so it just covers the base of the bottle..
Now carry on putting cambelt on, this will give time for the coolant to fill the block up.
As you will be turning the water pump pulley..
Make sure the water pump pulley is degreased after using the grease for the gasket..
ANY HIGH MELTING POINT GREASE WILL DO
 
#103 ·
BradleyW said:
I'm wanting to change the belt and water pump myself. I've been researching how to do it for the last week, but I'm getting conflicting information. The part that puzzles me is how do I actually "time" the engine and "lock it in", before putting the new belt on? What markings am I looking for to determine the cam and crank is in complete sync with TDC properly set?

My belt is 10 years old (58k), so It is way overdue!

Thank you.

MGEANE III 1.6 Petrol 2009 K4M 848.
Click to expand...
i did the same job on my cabriolet, in the street, jan,sevral years ago, if i remember. brass monkeys etc. i got a checklist on this forum and followed it for setting up the timing. started first turn. i had to do the head, two valves, cam seals, waterpump etc. the waterpump kit came with tensioner installation advice. still driving and idles like a sewing machine. getting sensible, practical advice here helped hugely.
 
Discussion starter · #104 · (Edited)
ours2012 said:
Telling you to loctite the two bolts in place basically..
cover the water pump gasket with grease , fit water pump and put the bolts in.. all bolts until you feel the bolts pinch slightly
Take 1 and 5 back out, degrease them, and the holes ( brake and clutch cleaner in a spraycan for this) dab of loctite on each put them in and tighten all bots up..
Fill reservoir so it just covers the base of the bottle..
Now carry on putting cambelt on, this will give time for the coolant to fill the block up.
As you will be turning the water pump pulley..
Make sure the water pump pulley is degreased after using the grease for the gasket..
ANY HIGH MELTING POINT GREASE WILL DO
Click to expand...
The only grease products I have are these:

proslip.com

Proslip Pin - Brake Pin Grease

Confused by all the greases out there? Come and meet the ProSlip Angels who will sort out your lubrication problems! We're talking brake grease here boys.
proslip.com proslip.com

The clip and pad grease are more of a dry lubricant. Pin grease should be OK. Feels like how a grease should if you get what I mean and can withstand 200c.

Here's the type of gasket my pump uses anyway. I think it is called a paper style gasket:

www.renaultpartsdirect.co.uk

Renault Twingo 133 Water Pump - 210100753R

Renault Twingo 133 Water Pump - Renault Parts Direct - Renault Parts Direct is a web based service from our authorised Renault dealer.
www.renaultpartsdirect.co.uk www.renaultpartsdirect.co.uk

Also have copper grease, but probably not suitable for aluminium (mixed metal contact corrosion/galvanisation).

Last but not least I have this too. Would this be better? A smear on both sides of the gasket?

Head Gasket & Exhaust Sealant | Halfords UK

Repair exhausts and head gaskets quickly and easily with the Halfords range of gasket sealers and exhaust repair supplies. Same day click & collect available
www.halfords.com www.halfords.com

Edit: Just been reading on that, and people suggest it is not good to use sealant and paper gasket together. So hopefully you approve of that pin grease @ours2012 because it is all I've got.

I can't go out and buy a tub of grease and can't wait for delivery either. Flooding is extremely bad in my area.

peterdewolf said:
i did the same job on my cabriolet, in the street, jan,sevral years ago, if i remember. brass monkeys etc. i got a checklist on this forum and followed it for setting up the timing. started first turn. i had to do the head, two valves, cam seals, waterpump etc. the waterpump kit came with tensioner installation advice. still driving and idles like a sewing machine. getting sensible, practical advice here helped hugely.
Click to expand...
Glad it is all running good.
 
Discussion starter · #113 ·
My neighbour is away, so can't ask. I do have Vaseline... But melting point is only 35c+
Can walk to a local car shop but they only sell the following:

GREASE -Bullseye Car Parts

Find and shop forMAINTENANCE PRODUCTS1 -GREASE products online at everyday low prices atBullseye Car Parts
www.bullseyecarparts.co.uk
 
#114 ·
It's not a case of the grease being permanent, it's helping keep the gasket in place, giving an initial seal and helping to waterproof the gasket.
From that respect Vaseline will do it.
But your local bullseye.... LM2 high temp, I'll almost guarantee that most if not all of us old fogeys have a can of that around, probably castrol but what the hell.
 
Discussion starter · #115 · (Edited)
Cheers, I'll grab some LM2 in the morning!

If you recall, my timing belt kit came with a spacer which @spacecadet correctly identified. New spacer is different from the current spacer. I assume I'm to use the current spacer as it's not a like for like situation. If so, which way does the spacer go on the timing belt idler? It fell into my hand after removal, so couldn't record for sure how it was installed. Sad times.
 

Attachments

#116 ·
Why are you assuming old spacer not new?

Anyway, don't know but my immediate is that spacer should be the other way round.
Wide bit to give stability against the engine block, narrow bit to pulley to clear any spinning parts ?
 
#119 ·
spacecadet said:
The old spacer is the one in the pic- the new one doesn't have a shoulder IIRC.
Click to expand...
Yeah I got that and could not find a spacer with a shoulder in any of the manuals or kits for sale I've looked at.

Question was why use the old spacer?
If I find a new part in a kit I always assume it is there for a reason.
Could be cos they reckon the old part will be damaged, worn out etc.
Could be because the new pulley requires the new spacer.... slightly different stand off height for instance to put the pulley in the right place.
I don't know but don't know why Bradders is thinking of using the old spacer either.
There may be a reason?
 
Discussion starter · #120 · (Edited)
It is because the new part doesn't match the old, but I'll use the new spacer anyway. That paper style gasket for water pump is actually thin metal. Should I still apply grease?
 
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