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Discussion starter · #161 ·
No not to increase, to learn how to do it..

Are you telling us NOW you did not want to learn, but there was an ulterior motive for changing your cam belt.
Well , we are shocked ..
Only 2 reasons why I wanted to change the belt. 1) To learn, to achieve my goal. 2) So the old belt couldn't damage the engine. No ulterior motive, rest assured.

Beware of companies who will remap your engine to silly BHP..this can often affect the clutch..seen this happen at many rolling road days..tuning box might be a better option for you if you want to do that..
True. Extra strain on things when it's running outside spec.
 
Only 2 reasons why I wanted to change the belt. 1) To learn, to achieve my goal. 2) So the old belt couldn't damage the engine. No ulterior motive, rest assured.
Wot?
To learn?
We're sending you the bill for tuition fees.
Dinna worry, you can get a student loan.
Image



My motive to do jobs on cars wasn't to learn.
Was cos I was too skint and too mean to pay garages.
 
Wot?
To learn?
We're sending you the bill for tuition fees.
Dinna worry, you can get a student loan.
View attachment 180254


My motive to do jobs on cars wasn't to learn.
Was cos I was too skint and too mean to pay garages.
Wife 4 kids= always skint ..I was at the point of selling my body..saved me a bundle over the years..

180264
 
Discussion starter · #165 · (Edited)
Forgot to mention, topped up coolant, bled it, idled 10 mins. Could smell something getting warmer than usual from inside engine bay. Temp gauge at mid point, cooling fan came on for a moment. Just worried the HG took some heat as a result of remaining air being trapped.

Coolant level risen to max, then dropped. Fan went off. Topped up coolant, set revs to 2.5K. 1 min. Checked heater. Worked. Turned engine off. Could still smell it. Topped up again, rechecked bleeders.

Test drove. Heard coolant gushing. Still air trapped. Drove a few mins. Remaining air went away...no more gushing. Again, temps at mid....but not sure if it counts for much if air is trapped in the block. Sensor doesn't read from that section...only reads coolant temp inside thermostat housing.

Should I be worried about the HG?
 
Quit worrying.
Your headgasket is fine.
Told you before, you can bu55er them by boiling up but a little overtempt...forget it.

It sometimes can take a little time for coolant and air to settle.
And can blip the needle and fan.
And any spilt can smell hot.
 
Discussion starter · #167 ·
Quit worrying.
Your headgasket is fine.
Told you before, you can bu55er them by boiling up but a little overtempt...forget it.

It sometimes can take a little time for coolant and air to settle.
And can blip the needle and fan.
And any spilt can smell hot.
Cheers.
Definitely nothing spilt. The smell started when engine hit mid point and water level risen as a result of trapped air. You could hear air and water gush a little when you rev, until it worked its way out of the system. Initial thought was air trapped in the block, heating up the HG.
 
Discussion starter · #168 ·
For anyone who's interested, the way I torqued the crank pulley bolt was by using a large strap wrench attached to the pulley. I wedged the handle onto the chassis. Torqued the bolt to 40nm. I then marked out a 145 degree angle. Made two marks. One on the bolt, to monitor rotation. The other, on the pulley, 145 degrees from the marker on the bolt. A few shots with the impact gun had both marks aligned.
 
Well folks, I know this is an old thread, I just want to say thank you.
Even if this doesn't get read!
I may be attempting this myself in the near future.
I'm scared though, but inspired, I've never done a cam belt, and I'm am old codger.
Thanks once again :)
 
Well folks, I know this is an old thread, I just want to say thank you.
Even if this doesn't get read!
I may be attempting this myself in the near future.
I'm scared though, but inspired, I've never done a cam belt, and I'm am old codger.
Thanks once again :)
Don't be scared to ask if anyting unclear or you are unsure.
Take it gently, check everyting twice and when back together, rotate the engine by hand at least twice.
DO NOT turn the key until you are certain and don't guess.
 
but it advises to put car in 1st or reverse gear, then remove crankshaft pulley bolt, would that be right?
That is an attempt to lock the engine to prevent everything rotating when you try to loosen the pulley bolt...which will be tight.
Trouble is that to get to the bolt, you need to have the offside wheel off and the differential means that this wheel can rotate, even with low gear ratios.
Traditional way is to lock the flywheel with a large screwdriver jammed into the flywheel teeth...some engines have access slots to allow, some you can remove the TDC sensor.....will need a helper to hold this.
Less traditional is to get a helper to sit in the car and jam foot hard on the brakes, locking the front wheels (in 1st).
Some worry about winding up the gear box with the load but I'm not certain you can put enough on.
Best advice is to beg borrow or steal a decent impact wrench...240v electric versions are not overly expensive and will be useful in the future, even if only for wheel nuts
 
ol i dont know if this is a daft question, but, do i leave the timing pin in, and the camshaft tool in, whilst im unbolting the crankshaft pulley?
im going to lock the flywheel with traditional screwdriver method.
sorry but im just trying to get this clear in my mind before i go wading in
cheers.
 
ol i dont know if this is a daft question, but, do i leave the timing pin in, and the camshaft tool in, whilst im unbolting the crankshaft pulley?
NOoooooooooooooo!!!!!!
Easiest way to bend the tools and then the pin is jammed in the block and you need to get the sump off......
 
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