Megane II (2005) Front discs & Pads replacement?

If your only replacing front disc & pads then you don't need to worry about the hand brake as that operates on the rear wheels (unless they've gone back to the days of the old renault 4 where the hand brake was on the front). If your carefully then you should not require to bleed the brakes or touch the bleed nipples.
The braking system when new will have the fluid in the reservoir set to the correct level. If it isn't topped up then this can be a good guide to be able to see the wear on the pads as when the pad wears the piston in the caliper moves further out thus requiring more fluid to move from the reservoir to compensate.
When you remove the caliper ( one side at a time) you then need to push / wind the caliper piston back into the housing this will then force the fluid back to the reservoir. This is the point when people will open the bleed valve to stop the fluid going back but draining it out. I would not advise you open the bleed valve if you have not done this before.
Copper grease is used on the parts of the pad which sit in the caliper to aid smooth operation & to minimize squeaking.

When you have replaced the discs & pads & before you move the car you MUST NOT forget to pump the brake pedal,do this after you complete each side & also check the fluid level in the reservoir

If your not sure how to do this then you should not attempt this job.Brakes steering & suspension can have serious implications if not done correctly. Where in the country are you?

Thanks R5gtt...live near Milton Keynes,but have a friend who is a mechanical engineer and has replaced brakes/suspension etc before...mainly on Veedubs....so i know he's more than competent.

I have been maintaining my own cars for sixty years.
Up to buying Renaults I'd been used to relatively simple jobs, now with my fifth french auto, I'm as cautious as hell. They are complicated, and I'm sure the french engineers design with the 'Number One priority being- Surprise! Surprise!
These cars are a challenge. Take for example brakes , normally when replacing pads, one, with other LESS 'MODERN' cars. You just push back the piston, with for example a G clamp. I've just finished my Megane 04 , full brakes replacement. The rear proved hard to push back, so I stopped and got the Haynes out. Bugger me, Renault requires the fitter to turn the piston (right handed) at the same time pushing it back .
Apparently other modern cars also require this feature, although some might be left handed. As for the rear old pads, these were a mess, full of debris, so no wonder binding caused the MOT failure. Front failed too, MOT sheet declared 1.6 mm thick. BUT that was a load of bull**** - Near 3/16/1/4'' thick - my pads had at least another 10,000 on them. However the MOT garage must make extra cash - quoted £80 . As for the rear
'We'll need to take them off to find out why binding!'
God knows what the bill would have been then. One can only hope they, also had the special tool for rewinding the piston, otherwise a new caliper or at the very least, seals plus mega labour costs would have been added.
It will be retested now, after all, they have me by the 'short & curlers' - however perhaps, it will be free. Or I can sue them for the costs involved caused by their faulty report. Not best pleased then - sadly VOSA only get involved if you do not or have not repaired the vehicle, following the test. But then I need a car at 78.
SamWoe
PS VOSA is the controlling body for MOT stations.

By rights you should clamp the flexi hose that goes to the caliper and open the bleed nipple on the caliper so when the piston is pushed back into the caliper the fluid it moves comes out of the nipple and doesn't go backwards through the system!

Most will say it's not necessary and to be honest I've risked not doing it on my own car, but this method should be used as modern brake systems with ABS etc don't like the fluid to go the wrong way through the system.

Also when everything is fitted and you need to pump the brake pedal to seat the pads on the discs or when bleeding the brakes only ever push the pedal as far as it would travel under normal daily use....don't push it right down to the floor where it never normally goes. If you do you run a very big risk of damaging the master cylinder seals as they will be traveling to a part of the master cylinder bore that is never used, this area will more than likely have some corrosion on it and this may damage the seals.

Other than that lot, its a doddle...:d


Cheers.