Not 100% sure on this but:
Steels from the same manufacturer seem to have the same taper bolts,
To be "really really" sure if youre getting alloy wheels that are oem ,like for a laguna that had steels,use all the bolts that came from the breakers yard laguna alloys.
Aftermarket wheels..well as I mentioned in another post,my new ones came with "nuts" even tho I had confirmed the car make/model more than once.
These were not very usefull . To their credit the wheel suppliers had the correct bolts to me within 48 hrs and "no charge" and no return of the incorrect parts needed.
I cant resist: "Anyone want to buy my nuts?"

"Tuner" bolts/nuts are the standard fitment for alloys now it seems,with a set taper.and solid.
I had actually forgotten about the rotating taper I had on some locking nuts in the past until you mentioned it.

When changing my wheels .. I was surprised at the amount of rust on the hubs after 3 months,car had been out in the dealer lot for 4 months Id say before purchase .. but nm.

The load bearing is all about the bore part (center hub ring)..not the bolts,nuts. They only hold the wheel in position.Thats not my opinion(I cant link the source).

I on a "gut feeling" basis would prefer my wheels held in positon with a solid bolt/nut,
Corrosion possibilities< I dont know

 

Renault dont care which bolts you have, they dont expect your car to last long enough to make any difference on wether corrosion builds up on the rims.

most come with bog standard chrome plated steel bolts. they corrode so look rusty and tatty.

if you fitted custom alloys then i would expect alloy tyre valves and colleted wheel bolts with them, as you probably paid more for the wheels than the car was worth (go-on you did didnt you :d )

 

Renault dont care which bolts you have, they dont expect your car to last long enough to make any difference on wether corrosion builds up on the rims.

LOL! Excellent perspective! And more iron than in my rims! :d

if you fitted custom alloys then i would expect alloy tyre valves and colleted wheel bolts with them, as you probably paid more for the wheels than the car was worth (go-on you did didnt you :d )

Custom Alloys; yes, a much loved set of Silverstone rims (complete with tyres) sold by someone who used to have one of those foreign motorway machines.

 

Slight divergence here, (but its been touched upon).

Speaking as someone who has to remove alloys on a fairly regular basis - a smear of LM or copper grease on the hub prevents the wheel from bonding to the hub (and siezing in place).

It's not unusual for me to have to tap the tyre gently(ish) with my sledgehammer to loosen it off.

Why is this important?

Well, you might not have such a device in your car, the next time you get a puncture...:d

A penny-worth of prevention, and all that.

HTH

Paul

 

Merci:
I had a 500ml"tin" of castrol LM, which probably has antique/collectors item status by now.
I lightly smeared it on the back of the steel wheels and the centre hole before they went back on the hubs.
Seemed Ideal,just a light rubseemed to remove all the "surface rust".Hopefully that will keep everything nice for when the alloys go back on.I may have to give the hub centres a wipe as the spigot rings on the alloys are plastic.
I also had/have a tube of "copaslip" which I used to use"carefully" on moving brake assembly parts to reduce squeal but hey didnt want to freak the wheel fitters out with all this high tech grease :d

Yes all the original wheel bolts are back in .The chromed "tuner" bolts (solid with chrome finish) are now in a bag for spring/summer.
The tapered seats on them seemed fine .no wear as were the alloy wheel seats, as far as I could see.
Ill put some polish on both,not grease cos I think grease/oil on threads messes up torque settings?

 

Ill put some polish on both,not grease cos I think grease/oil on threads messes up torque settings?

Personal opinion, but I wouldn't apply any substance (maybe give the threads a wipe over with an oily rag if that), just to remove any excess pitting/corrosion.

You ideally want the bolts to undo, but not of their own accord.:d

HTH

Paul

 

Copper grease or anti-seize compound to use its correct name is ideal for preventing corrosion at mating surfaces especially where two differing metals are used as it reduces the risk of electolytic action caused by two differing metals. It only takes the lightest applicatiion to prevent such problems and as this product doesn't have high lubrication qualities it has little effect on torque values.

I have used it on all my vehiicles over the years whether they have steel or alloy wheels. The way I look at it is simple. What would you prefer when trying to change a wheel on a dark winters night with traffic flying past eh!!

 

Copper grease or anti-seize compound to use its correct name is ideal for preventing corrosion at mating surfaces especially where two differing metals are used as it reduces the risk of electolytic action caused by two differing metals. <SNIP> What would you prefer when trying to change a wheel on a dark winters night with traffic flying past eh!!

Doesn't using copper grease add another metal to the electrolytic corrosion equation? (Not serious, folks)
I reckon any adhesive grease will help avoid the corrosion, but the metal should have a finish to prevent corrosion. Just that wear abrades the surface finish, and so we are looking to prevent teh area subjected to corrosion influences.
But do *not* use a graphite grease; carbon and aluminium erodes the auminium at a maximum rate.
Pity you can't get zinc paste...

Heh a difference of opinion.
Either way the lm grease was a good idea ,id forgotten about it .I was just worried about light oil or similar migrating down to the bearings
I think I should be covered with the LM until February.
Sorry Tolak ,probably wandered off topic.

Happy to let this drift; that was almost the point of such an open-ended question.
I would put grease on the interface between the hub and the wheel to stop it sticking, and a tiny bit on the bolt threads, but will go back to the bolts to check and re-torque. I tend not to grease the taper, as this helps keep the bolt in place.

If LM grease migrates down to the bearings you would be in bother me thinks - after all they are sealed so for grease or water to get inside the bearing seals would have failed followed shortly by bearing failure.

A light smear of LM on the mating surfaces should be OK. Just don't apply loads that can be flung off and maybe hit the brakes or other oil sensitve components.

Agreed; I thought that the grease tends to migrate out, when the hub gets hot under braking, so ensure there is not enough to get onto the braking surfaces. (Fling is radially outwards, as shown by the black tracks you'll get on the wheels)

 

Heh a difference of opinion.
Either way the lm grease was a good idea ,id forgotten about it .I was just worried about light oil or similar migrating down to the bearings
I think I should be covered with the LM until February.

Maybe Ill break out the copaslip and put a tiny amount on the mating surfaces of the alloy wheels and their bolts.
The alloys and the spigot rings did have a rust residue on them from the hubs even tho theyve only been on a month!.
Im glad theyre off itd be a real kick in the teeth to have had pitting from hub contact while the front was just fine.
Maybe this is all a bit hypersensitive,but cant hurt.
Sorry Tolak ,probably wandered off topic.

 

If LM grease migrates down to the bearings you would be in bother me thinks - after all they are sealed so for grease or water to get inside the bearing seals would have failed followed shortly by bearing failure.

A light smear of LM on the mating surfaces should be OK. Just don't apply loads that can be flung off and maybe hit the brakes or other oil sensitve components.

 

Some months ago on the honest john forum there was a ''debate'' on whether wheel nuts should be lubed or not, most saying they used copper anti seize grease {i've always used it}.
It got rather heated at times with those that practised this put in their place by techi' types saying it gave false readings on the torque wrench which weakened/damaged the wheels, steel or alloys, etc, etc.

I still use it though :d

 

Wel I think my answer to the techs would be. What affect does corrosion have on torque values eh!! Do they realise that wheel bolts and nuts are exposed to what is almost the equivalent of a marine environment during winter when roads are salted.

The only time when torque values would be absolutely accurate would be when the bolts and hubs were brand new and that's assuming the torque wrench had been recently calibrated.

 

TBH, there is no 'right' or 'wrong' answer as such, it comes down to what you are used to, and believe in.

A bit like those (like me) who leave their car in gear when parking, and those (like my other half) who don't - and never check before starting...:d

Each group has good reason to believe what they do is correct (otherwise, why do it?), but to my mind - its whatever works for you.

Paul

 

I had been worried about light oil ..or wd40 migrating down past the dust caps if I used it. castrol lm woulldnt be a proplem as it is wheel bearing grease,
The tin was left over from the last time I did a wheel bearing replacement(shows you how long ago that was).

I think LM grease now comes in new fangledy plastic tubs

 

I've a feeling I spent 2 years with the wrong bolts in the 16s on the Lag 1, before I got the second Lag 1 and thought 'that's funny, these wheel bolts are different'... But then, the wheels never stayed on the car long enough for the bolts to seize up

And on the subject of bolts, why? Studs are much better, or at least it's a lot easier to get the wheels back on...

 

I much prefer studs for that very reason.

But the reason (I think) manufacturers use bolts is so they can keep the same size hub for all wheel sizes & widths, and only have to change the bolt length.

Paul

 

You'll find in the handbook (and I always re-iterate this to customers), that wheel bolts/nuts should be checked for tightness the first 100 miles after they have been re-fitted.

I've always believed it was due to the effect of metal expanding/contracting with heat from the brakes.

Paul

 

I only once had a "wobbly wheel" experience(loose bolts) and that was after a tyre change at one of these "weel do it so fast youll never know we had it" fitters. Seems they didnt know they had it either.
I wont go into the jumping on the wheelbrace antics for wheels that had been tightened by a pneumatic wrench grr.

The "special bolt" for the tuner bolts for the alloys looks worn already. I put that down to the compressed air wrench used for loosening and initial tightening.
When summer comes Ill replace the wheels myself since theyre already balanced , tracking/alignment can be done at service ..

 

I've just brought some aftermarket wheels for my mk2 clio and i was wondering if anyone could help me if they dont mind.

They fit fine and everything no rubbing and the lug holes match up perfectly, but the standard lugs dont fit and i have no idea what ones i will need. These are the wheels

http://www.gumtree.com/p/cars-vans-...ack-alloys-pcd-4x100-vauxhall-renault-seat-peugeot/91326215#gallery-item-full-2

 

I've just brought some aftermarket wheels for my mk2 clio and i was wondering if anyone could help me if they dont mind.

They fit fine and everything no rubbing and the lug holes match up perfectly, but the standard lugs dont fit and i have no idea what ones i will need. These are the wheels

http://www.gumtree.com/p/cars-vans-...ack-alloys-pcd-4x100-vauxhall-renault-seat-peugeot/91326215#gallery-item-full-2

As a start, offer one of the bolts through your original wheel, and measure how much thread sticks out of the wheel (=A).
Then do the same with a bolt in the new wheels (=B).
Now measure the thread of the bolt, up to the shoulder of the taper (=L).
The formula (L+A-B) will give you the length you need for the new bolts; wheel sellers (including Halfords) should be able to provide you with a set.
Take a wheel bolt in with you, so you can confirm the taper angle matches, etc.

Edit: I see you have your own thread for this: http://www.renaultforums.co.uk/showthread.php?t=122820 so my trivial info is superseded and doesn't really answer your question anyway!