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Battery Charging Fault **Fixed**

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battery battery charging fault charging fault fixed
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#21 ·
Buddy at 14.4 volts you are going to damage the electrics on your car..

I sit in peoples cars with a diagnostic machine plugged in, never have I had a car register 14.4 volts on idle with no load on..
With all the lights on, and the heater demister and hazards this s the time I want to see 14.4 volts, no other time.
Where is this voltage being used.. Has the car got some way of getting rid of this excess voltage..
 
#22 ·
It was likely with lights, aircon and radio on when it saw 14.4v
That was earlier this week when I went out in the dark to test it.
When it briefly saw 13.9v today those would have all been off.
That's all fairly irrelevant now as it's constantly showing under 12v
 
#23 ·
So the regulator didn't fix it. It's now been in a a garage where they swapped the alternator and that didn't fix it.

What the hell else could it be?

I ran it with engine running and all electrics on and the voltage dropped to 10.5v. Eventally the battery charge dropped to low 11's (yet still started the car somehow)
 
#24 · (Edited)
MeggyMatt said:
So the regulator didn't fix it. It's now been in a a garage where they swapped the alternator and that didn't fix it.

What the hell else could it be?

I ran it with engine running and all electrics on and the voltage dropped to 10.5v. Eventally the battery charge dropped to low 11's (yet still started the car somehow)
Click to expand...
Swapping the alternator MUST fix it if it was a correct model working new alternator supplied, the belt isn't slipping and the wiring is confirmed to be in good condition ....................one would assume that the garage that swapped the alternator should know about all those obvious things before they even suggested and replaced the alternator......................

What happened to the old alternator? - I would insist on a refund and that it gets refitted at their cost but that's just me.:frown2:

My guess ............... faulty new alternator or that vehicle has an intelligent charging system managed by the ECU and the ECU has a headache ............................... have you had it on a CLIP to ask the ECU nicely what's causing all the drama?
 
#25 ·
LvR said:
Swapping the alternator MUST fix it if it was a correct model working new alternator supplied, the belt isn't slipping and the wiring is confirmed to be in good condition ....................one would assume that the garage that swapped the alternator should know about all those obvious things before they even suggested and replaced the alternator......................

What happened to the old alternator? - I would insist on a refund and that it gets refitted at their cost but that just me.:frown2:

My guess ............... faulty new alternator or that vehicle has an intelligent charging system managed by the ECU and the ECU has a headache ............................... have you had it on a CLIP to ask the ECU nicely what's causing all the drama?
Click to expand...
They've been good as gold. Took the new one off and sent both off to be tested to make sure there's nothing wrong with the new one.
He did call me not long ago suggesting my swapping of the regulator may have damaged something but it wasn't definitive and, having done it myself, there's nothing to damage anyway.
 
#26 ·
Id say CLIP it is if they are your buddies and you trust them.

Tangent ............. was it ever working properly and for how long? .................. full history? (thinking wrong alternator to start with possibly?)
 
#28 ·
Yes - CLIP is a dedicated Renault fault finding tool/scanner that can/should be able to lead you to the problem area if its electronics related.

Is it possible to observe the testing of the alternators at all? ..................... especially noting the technique used?

Post what is seen and measurements on the bench - especially test loads used and voltages seen at what rpms and most importantly - how the alternator was initially energized on the bench
 
#29 ·
LvR said:
Yes - CLIP is a dedicated Renault fault finding tool/scanner that can/should be able to lead you to the problem area if its electronics related.

Is it possible to observe the testing of the alternators at all? ..................... especially noting the technique used?

Post what is seen and measurements on the bench - especially test loads used and voltages seen at what rpms and most importantly - how the alternator was initially energized on the bench
Click to expand...
Sadly not, I'm at work in London and the car is in a garage locally.
 
#30 ·
Ask the garage to do a diagnostic on the complete car..
You should end up with a D code, post this, might even be lucky and get a DF code also...
 
#31 ·
hi, dont want to open new thread about battery charging but i am in doubt,

driving megane 3, 2010, 1.6 16v, 81 kW. with 65000 kms on it.

i have no warning messages on board for low battery or so, but after installed new battery in autumn last year, charging voltage after starting engine was 14.1V. i measured it few times in winter and always been like that. once a month i recharged my battery with c-tech smart charger because of winter, and all was good.

now when is warmer weather spring-summer, when i measure voltage in morning after starting engine shows 14.1-14.2V but 15 minutes after that it drops to 13,45 +/-V and stays that way.. with all electricity consumers it stays about 13.4-13.8V, not passing 14V

i have not any problems with starting and never had.
on older cars voltage was always 14+ volts so i am wondering is this normal situation?

is it have some smart charger controller to adapt charging voltage according to temperature and level of battery capacity? or similar thing?

i have idea to buy a new battery but seems this one works ok.

what do you think?

i scanned voltage with digital voltmeter manually and over OBD2 adapter with app inCarDoc pro, when driving, here are some screens.. thanks.
 

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#32 ·
As you say, a smart charging system, all done by the under bonnet fusebox.
This reads supply and demand, need any more supply, then this informs alternator to charge,
 
#33 ·
imart said:
hi, dont want to open new thread about battery charging but i am in doubt,...........
Click to expand...
I don't think you have much to worry on.


Normal behaviour for charging circuit/battery.
When battery volts drops, such as when you start it and use a chunk of power, the internal resistance is low, higher volts goes in.
As the battery charges, internal resistance increases and charging volts drop.
It is a self regulating system.

What you are measuring seems okay and certainly not reason to get a new battery.
 
#34 · (Edited)
thanks, i was worried, because system didnt work like that on my previous megane 2..

but on skoda yeti 2.0 tdi i also noticed voltages under 14V when charging so it is pretty normal situation for Renault too..

well suppose every newer car have that system for charging contol..

nice to know. :-D
one more thing,

last time when i was stuck on highway without power (previous Tudor TA530 lost power suddenly) i was forced to buy some cheap battery on gas station. it is old school open acid battery manually electrolite controlled. cost 50$

it will be better for next battery to be some more quality battery which can operate in different voltages, because i know that old system lead acid batteries have to be fully charged to live.

what to look for?

some like i had, example Exide premium EA 60 Ah?

can i put higher capacity battery? instead 53Ah to put 60Ah?
 

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#37 ·
Don't worry too much on the how the charge system works, the basic is the same on all cars but some have more control via the ECU (computer system)
The important bit is that charge voltage is between 13.5 to 14.4 (or there abouts) and does not vary dramatically when you do things like put lights on or rev up.

As far as batteries are concerned...bigger the better as long as it will fit under the bonnet.
AH (capacity) and CCA (Cold Crank Amps) are what you are looking for, higher the better.
 
#39 ·
imart said:
hi, dont want to open new thread about battery charging but i am in doubt,

driving megane 3, 2010, 1.6 16v, 81 kW. with 65000 kms on it............




Hi, I have the same problem with a Renault Megane III 2.0Tce 2011.
But how i read the comment this is a normal charging system on this car.
Did you have any problem with battery or charging system?
Click to expand...
 
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